Chances Old Well Pump Good after 25 years?

[GaryQWA]

Control boxes are hp specific. A 3 wire pump, meaning it requires a control box, will not run without one and attempting to run one w/o a box may harm the pump.

The color coding is: red is start, yellow w/black stripe hot, black hot, green ground. Hot means 120 vac. Boxes are marked L1 and L2 for the switch hots and Red, etc. to the well/pump.

www.franklinelectric.com has ohms readings etc. in their 4" pump troubleshooting section.

The three wires from the barn will be two hots and a ground. They come from either the breaker/fuse box (2 x 120 each) or the pressure switch. If from the breaker then you take them to a pressure switch and then to the control box and then to the well (pump).

You can run any submersible pump open discharge, meaning you don't need a valve to see if the pump runs. You do need a valve to see if it will build pressure BUT, you should also put a pressure gauge on the line to see that the pump and plumbing will build the pressure you require/desire. Depending on the pump, you can blow plumbing with excessive pressure IF the dead head pressure is higher than the plumbing and/or fitting psi rating; and until you look up the spec sheet on the pump, and you can't until you know what pump is down there, and you can't know that until you pull it, you shouldn't assume the max pressure the pump can produce. It only takes once to exceed the max pressure of fittings and the plumbing.

Gary Slusser

 

[GaryQWA]

Control boxes are hp specific. A 3 wire pump, meaning it requires a control box, will not run without one and attempting to run one w/o a box may harm the pump.

The color coding is: red is start, yellow w/black stripe hot, black hot, green ground. Hot means 120 vac. Boxes are marked L1 and L2 for the switch hots and Red, etc. to the well/pump.

www.franklinelectric.com has ohms readings etc. in their 4" pump troubleshooting section.

The three wires from the barn will be two hots and a ground. They come from either the breaker/fuse box (2 x 120 each) or the pressure switch. If from the breaker then you take them to a pressure switch and then to the control box and then to the well (pump).

You can run any submersible pump open discharge, meaning you don't need a valve to see if the pump runs. You do need a valve to see if it will build pressure BUT, you should also put a pressure gauge on the line to see that the pump and plumbing will build the pressure you require/desire. Depending on the pump, you can blow plumbing with excessive pressure IF the dead head pressure is higher than the plumbing and/or fitting psi rating; and until you look up the spec sheet on the pump, and you can't until you know what pump is down there, and you can't know that until you pull it, you shouldn't assume the max pressure the pump can produce. It only takes once to exceed the max pressure of fittings and the plumbing.

Gary Slusser

 

[ultrarunner]

It looks like the only way to be sure is to pull the pump and verify model and voltage. The discharge pipe stops about 12 inches from the sealed well head with a 90 and is not connected to anything.

 

[ultrarunner]

It looks like the only way to be sure is to pull the pump and verify model and voltage. The discharge pipe stops about 12 inches from the sealed well head with a 90 and is not connected to anything.

 

[Highbeam]

Are you sure the 90 at the top of that pipe isn't hooked to a pitless adapter? The 90 hangs onto a hook deal and the water goes through the side of the well casing. The pitless systems are pretty common since the plumbing is not above ground in the freezing temps.

 

[Highbeam]

Are you sure the 90 at the top of that pipe isn't hooked to a pitless adapter? The 90 hangs onto a hook deal and the water goes through the side of the well casing. The pitless systems are pretty common since the plumbing is not above ground in the freezing temps.

 

[ultrarunner]

It Works... well kind of...

Update... Thanks for every one's input.

I was able to get my neighbors 1 1/2 hp 120' deep well pump working after 24 years of obscurity without pulling it. I bought a new 1 1/2 hp controller from Grainger based on advice received and tried cycling it about 20 times before it "Broke Loose" and started pumping.

The good news is that it works... the bad news is it only pumped 10 minutes, no load, through an 1 1/2 inch outlet before running dry. The water from the first pumping was brown and foul smelling.

The bad news is that the water has cleared up nicely, but now it pumps dry in about 90 seconds tops in a 24 hour period.

At least I was able to help a neighbor.