Change hydraulic fluid at 50 hrs or not?

[blucoondawg]

Thanks for the advice. I plan on changing it. I too noticed the clear fluid. It is very hard to see fluid level on the dip stick.

Another question: Why are there two filters, HST and hydraulic? Isn't there one common sump? Different filter mesh sizes for the power steering/hydraulic pump vs HST pump?

Some fluids are clear, in fact most I have used are clear from Mobil 424 to the store brands I have used both at home and our equipment at work, you cannot judge the fluid by it's color. Yes they are common sump but there are 2 filters and that hydro filter is expensive. That same fluid is also in the front axle which I also replaced. There has been discussion about whether to continue to use hydraulic in the front axle or switch to gear oil, I stayed with the hydraulic. The manual recommends either.

 

[dfkrug]

I put Mobil 424 in mine, it is clear. You cannot tell the quality of a fluid by it's color.

I did not say that. I reported that all the different THFs that I have bought and used have been colored. Kinda like
diluted honey.

I have no problem with Mobil 424, a name-brand THF that is even listed on Kioti's approved list and lists an equivalency
to JD HyGaard J20C, another very common THF. I did not know it is clear. The color in THFs is quite helpful for seeing
fluid levels on dipsticks, as reported.

Since the oil put into new Kiotis in Korea is of unknown brand and type, and intended as a 50-hour breakin oil, I say
replace it before the 50 hours is up. I also consider the first oil put into a new or rebuilt engine to be a breakin oil, too,
fit for abbreviated service only.

 

[blucoondawg]

Ya color would be better for seeing the dipstick level, since there is a Daedong fluid number listed in the book I figured that to be what most likely is the stock fluid, though really who knows, I worked for a heavy equipment company with many tired pieces of equipment for years and they would use a decent quality fluid in the shop but it was common practice when there were blown hoses or other such in the field for guys to run to the auto parts store and grab whatever cheap tractor fluid was available in the store brand, they ran a lot of that no name stuff and didn't really have any issues with pumps or anything, I use the better stuff in my machine because it makes me feel warm and fuzzy but I don't know that it is actually necessary.

 

[rjwerth]

Well, I wasn't going to change my fluid at 50 hours but it ended up happening anyway. Couldn't get the regular hydo filter off (just like everyone else) and finally drove a screwdriver through the filter and broke it free with my foot and a whole lot of perseverance. Because the hole was below the sump, all the fluid siphoned out during my trials and tribulations.

Kept the expensive HST filter on as per my mechanic's recommendation. I'll change that on the next go around. Oh, I was just informed today that the HST filters just went up in price again!

 

[k0ua]

Well, I wasn't going to change my fluid at 50 hours but it ended up happening anyway. Couldn't get the regular hydo filter off (just like everyone else) and finally drove a screwdriver through the filter and broke it free with my foot and a whole lot of perseverance. Because the hole was below the sump, all the fluid siphoned out during my trials and tribulations.

Kept the expensive HST filter on as per my mechanic's recommendation. I'll change that on the next go around. Oh, I was just informed today that the HST filters just went up in price again!

Next time put a #8 machine screw in the vent hole cap and the fluid will not run out. You will lose about 2 ounces of fluid in total plus what ever is in the hydraulic filter. Just enough to barely cover the bottom of a 2 qt saucepan. Dont forget to remove the screw before firing up the engine and moving the hydraulics or it will blow the dipstick out of its hole.

Theory of operation: No air can get to the top side of the fluid in the tank, so not much fluid can come out of the filter hole.

 

[rjwerth]

Next time put a #8 machine screw in the vent hole cap and the fluid will not run out. You will lose about 2 ounces of fluid in total plus what ever is in the hydraulic filter. Just enough to barely cover the bottom of a 2 qt saucepan. Dont forget to remove the screw before firing up the engine and moving the hydraulics or it will blow the dipstick out of its hole.

Theory of operation: No air can get to the top side of the fluid in the tank, so not much fluid can come out of the filter hole.

Nice! Now that I have the breather from the backhoe kit, I could probably use a strong clamp and accomplish the same thing.

 

[cre10]

Didn't drain my fluid until 300 hours, 319 to be precise...changed the filter only at 100 hours. Fluid still looked fine, no water seeped by loosened drain plugs just before removing them completely....magnetic drain plugs were covered with metal paste (to be expected, and nice to see they're doing their job)

Change it at 50 hours if you like....it is your tractor....and your money....and it seems to be winning the vote here.....but I don't feel it's absolutely necessary to do it that early...

Hey...do most of you guys change the transmission and differential fluids on your $35,000 to $45,000 pickups after 50 hours use too?.....Hill Billy Bob

My truck was $60,000 and no I didn't change it. :laughing:

 

[TomSeller]

Change both fluid and filters at 50 hours and sleep well.

 

[oosik]

I changed every fluid in and on my tractor at 50 hours. And like Tom, I slept well - thank you.

 

[xring100]

I changed every fluid in and on my tractor at 50 hours. And like Tom, I slept well - thank you.

Same here on my kubota saw lots of metal fines running out of the front axle. The magnets on the trans were caked at 50 hours the 300 hour change looked better.