Changes in plans on the PT Purchase

[joshlee]

Thats what I plan on doing too. The mower and forks both have those attachment plates and I'm thinking they are the same exact thing as the "Quick Attach Plate"?

I am getting an extra plate when I pick the machine up. It doesn't look that hard to copy one, and if I can find a metal company that would cut the parts out, looks easy enough to weld together, and should be able to do it for about half the cost they want.

I am going to try not to get that many attachments, as I just don't have room to store them, and I don't leave things outside, especially if it has hoses, or cylinders on them.

 

[jfischer]

Josh, very true. just a 1/4" plate with a few bends, holes cut into it for the locking teeth, and a round stock at the top (I would think to make it go in easier and line up)

 

[joshlee]

Yep, although, the attachment plate on the mower of mine is 3/8" plate. Are there some that are 1/4"?

Josh, very true. just a 1/4" plate with a few bends, holes cut into it for the locking teeth, and a round stock at the top (I would think to make it go in easier and line up)

 

[jfischer]

It would be the same on mine, I didn't look real close, so that size is out there, just getting around to finding someone to shear them to that size needed is the hard thing around here.

 

[MossRoad]

Moss. The plow works good for you because your driveway is flat and, I think, paved. Most the driveways I do are unpaved and or not flat. I have to use the Light material bucket. Trouble with PT plow is it doesn't have any float or articulation built in so it won't follow the uneven terrain. You can float the loader but than there's to much weight on the plow and it digs in and the tractor rides up over the loader. I bet one could convert a light weight plow designed for small vehicle that would work with non- floating loader.

Yep, my drive is flat and paved. I always plow in float, whether on the wheels or on the blade edge. I've not had it try to drive up over the blade. My backyard is rolling and grass. I find that if I put the plow at an angle, tip it back on its wheels a couple inches, and put it in float, I will get shoved around a bit. So I end up setting the blade straight, still in float and still on the wheels and I have no problems. First pass once I build up a wedge of snow acts like a V plow and I go to the back of the yard. I can then put the blade at a slight angle and make multiple passes on the sides to knock them back a bit. But I've never had troubles digging into the grass or walking over the top of the plow while in float.

I know what you mean, though. I've walked over a buried bucket many times.

I wonder if the geometry, weight, etc... of the 1430 is different from the 425? Also, you may be pushing much greater snows than I am. Most I've done in one pass was about 15". Wet heavy stuff, I have to do that straight on. No way it would hold an angle. I got pushed to the side almost instantly.

 

[MossRoad]

I have learned long ago, that if a blade has any weight, or down pressure at all, they do not work with the float, unless conditions are ideal. On my JD, or any other tractor I have run, just drop it until it hits, and pick it up a hair. Alls you want is the sun to be able to get to things, and the earth's heat will have it down to gravel, dirt, or what ever you are trying to clear. Seems most want to get it too clean on the first pass, and the only time I ever had anything like that work was with a machine with lift only, and no down pressure to them.

I think M R said he puts the wheels down, then tilts the blade back a hair, that way it is a hair above all, and the pressure is on the wheels, and even that way I have found it will dig in, especially on a crowned gravel road.

Exactly. On flat pavement, I put it directly on the cutting edge. In my lawn, I drop it to the edge, then kick it back up an inch or two.

Also, the gauge wheels are kind of pesky to get set right. You get them set right for perpendicular to the ground with the blade straight and the blade won't be perpendicular when you angle it. You have to experiment with how many spacers to put under the linchpins to get what you want and make a compromise as to where you want it to perform best, straight or angled, 1" or 2" or 0" clearance, etc...

 

[woodlandfarms]

I have built my qa plates as well. I actually did it as 3 pieces, I had the top bent for me as bending is an art, but the rest was quite simple to fab up.

 

[toy]

I am replying to first post, too bad they can't figure out how to mount it on the right side and mount it on the joy stick. Have forward on one side and reverse on the other so that you could use one hand to do alll of the operations and have the left hand free to operate the steering.

 

[jfischer]

I would rather have it on the left side, or the opposite of what your control for your bucket, lift etc are. It is easier once you learn to drive that way in a car. My old JD had the forward and reverse on the right side, much like the Steiner tractors have, and the newer Ventrac do mount the forward and reverse on the same stick as your lift, but in my eyes, and for what I need the PT is a much better tractor and fits my needs a lot more, since I don't plan on cutting grass or such with it. This will be a tractor to move things, plow snow, move dirt, clean ditches, and many other things that I could not do with my JD and a Johnny Bucket of which has served me well over the years.
Jeff

I am replying to first post, too bad they can't figure out how to mount it on the right side and mount it on the joy stick. Have forward on one side and reverse on the other so that you could use one hand to do alll of the operations and have the left hand free to operate the steering.