Changes To Electrical Outlets

_RaT_ · Apr 19, 2004

Those are better grade outlets Mike they are the better quality then the screw terminal or push in's. They have a backer washer that clamps the wire. You don't need 3 hands, just a little understanding. Congratulations on buying better quality outlets. I prefer those over any other kind. I aways pigtail multiple wires and enter the outlet with just one wire for hot, neutral and of course, ground, it makes making up the box cleaner and easier to troubleshoot not to mention easier to push back in the box.

Jeff396 · Apr 19, 2004

Congratulations on buying better quality outlets. Oh please....give me a break. UL approved is UL approved. There are just different accepted attachment methods.

 I prefer those over any other kind. And you should use what you prefer. I prefer an attachment method where the wire is squeezed around the screw with a long nose holding it in place while tightening. It's hardly a quality issue though. While I dont' like or use them, even those push in types work fine. Most of the builders electricians around here use that method for speed. It's just not a lot of fun doing any modifications on those as they should only be used once before switching to the screws.

Jeff

Junkman · Apr 19, 2004

( Congratulations on buying better quality outlets. Oh please....give me a break. UL approved is UL approved. There are just different accepted attachment methods.

Jeff )

by better grade, he is refering to the quality of the unit. Sure they are all UL apporved, but the lowest grade is "specification grade" and the quality of the recepticle goes up from there. There are also, Hospital grade and that has its own set of standards. Read more web page

Inspector507 · Apr 19, 2004

BTW, for anyone that has this type of device and insist on using the screws, you can. Loosen up the screw and tip the device over, with the screws down. The screw will hang out, insert your pre-formed wire loop around the screw and turn right side up, tighten screw. Myself, I'd just loosen the screws and stick the wire in like it was designed. Same contact area as the screw, if not more.

MikePA · Apr 19, 2004

Loosen up the screw and tip the device over, with the screws down. The screw will hang out, insert your pre-formed wire loop around the screw and turn right side up, tighten screw. 
I did this on two outlets. Never again. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

JDgreen227 · Apr 19, 2004

Mike,

Back in the late 80's when I started learning how to do electrical work I really liked the quickwire type of outlet, you could still get those to accept 12 gauge wire. When I began having problems with those quickwire outlets in my garage, I took the backwires out and used the screw terminals instead and the problems disappeared. For the last twelve years I have been using the screw terminals on outlets but when we built on an addition in 2002 the outlets I chose had a choice of both side or backwired terminals.

While working with the journeyman electrician who did our wiring he told me he prefers the screw terminals to the back wired type although both methods provide identical contact.

Don't laugh at my method for getting the screw terminals to stay out...I make a U-shaped clip from bare 14 gauge wire to insert in the back of the outlet. With the terminal screws fully loosened the clip can be inserted in the back of the outlet and it will hold the screws out....make your loop, pull the clip out and tighten the screw.

Also, the more electrical wiring I do, the more I use what Sears sells as mini-pliers. The small tips are much easier to use for bending and looping wire than a standard pair of needlenose pliers. They make several different models including one pair that has long extended jaws, I use mine for just about all electrical terminals with limited space. They are GREAT.

_RaT_ · Apr 20, 2004

"Myself, I'd just loosen the screws and stick the wire in like it was designed. Same contact area as the screw, if not more. "

Mike, read on further, The Jerry (Inspector507) says he sticks the wire in straight, not with a preformed wire loop. When you start using the larger ampacity receptacles, they are all put in straight and the screw clamps the wire either by the end of the screw compressing the wire or a metal disc being pushed or pulled by the screw compressing the wire. This is how almost all aluminum connections are made which require more attention in order to make a solid connection. I have no clue what Jeff (guy with the spinning car logo) is talking about. He sounds confused. (Oh please....give me a break. UL approved is UL approved. There are just different accepted attachment methods.) Really /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

If you ever have to use hospital grade receptacles, you will find out quickly that there is very much a difference in two products that are UL listed. Screw clamp wire and a full metal support running down the back of the 20 amp receptacle. He is right, most residential electricicans use the 15 amp push in wire receptacles. If what to use is based on what most residential electricians use for speed, then I suppose we'd all be using those, styrofoam thin coat stucco, OSB board, 25 year comp roofs, and cheap carpet.
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Rat...

P.S. did you look at Jerrys picture? He clearly shows how it is done.

Jeff396 · Apr 20, 2004

Sorry, I overreacted to a couple of things you said in you response. Of course it didn't help that you replied to me when you were talking to Mike. I thought a couple of comments were for my benefit. Of course your latest response doesn't exactly make me believe I was mistaken. But sorry just the same.

I think that the term quality is being used incorrectly in this case which is where my confusion came in. I do understand that there are different grades for different uses though I hadn't noticed the attachment method was different depending on grade. The fact that a plug is a low grade spec plug does not make it low quality and unfit for its intended use. My reference to UL approved related to the fact that the quality of any grade plug would have to be up to its intended use.

Jeff

_RaT_ · Apr 20, 2004

Agreed Jeff /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Inspector507 · Apr 20, 2004

Decided to reply to myself, so no one would think my rant is directed at any ceratin person/persons, which it is not.

There is no such thing as UL approved . UL is an independent testing laboratory that will test various items any manufactures pays them too. If the item passes the rigorous standards and tests that they put them through, the item may then be LISTED by UL but will never be "approved". Listed and labeled means it has passed all the tests they put it through.
For electric receptacles examined under Category Code RTRT, some of the things they test for are:

Type of material and construction
Ampacity limits before meltdown
Holding strength(tension) of wire attaching means
Pull out strenth of blade contacts
Longevity of pull out strength
Distance between terminal screws and contacts
..........and about 200 more items

If a product is listed and labeled , that means it is made to a certain standard and passed the tests for it's intended use. BUT UL listed and labeled does not mean it will last a year or 30 years. That's where the quality from the manufacturer comes into play. The better they build it, hopefully the longer it will last. A commercial grade from a manufacturer is built better to stand up to years of use/abuse and for more frequent use than a household grade will.
The old back wired devices were certainly UL listed and labeled , but they found that over the years with a high current draw on a 20A circuit and #12 wire, that the tension on the flimsy brass "lock" on the conductor failed and resulted in a loose connection. That's why they are now only listed for #14 wire on a 15A circuit. I have been in the electrical trade since 1972 and there have been very few failures that I am aware of that I installed. But I have been called out to repair more than I'd want to try to count.