Changing blades

/ Changing blades #1  

PICK

New member
Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
22
Location
BELOIT, WI.
Tractor
KABOTA BX2660, RTV1100, CUB CADET LTX 1042, & MTD 25 TON H/V LOG SPLITTER, HUSKY 455 RANCHER, STIHL MS290
Is there an easier way to change blades rather than taking the mower deck off?
 
/ Changing blades #2  
For yer ltx1042: floor jack, set of jack stands... jack up up front axle, secure with jack stands, chock rear wheels. there will be enuff room under raised mower deck to reach both spindles and change blades w/o removing deck.
 
/ Changing blades
  • Thread Starter
#3  
THANKS A TON. THAT SURE BEATS TAKING THE DECK OFF.
 
/ Changing blades #5  
I think when after about 5 minutes of that torture you'll rethink that decision and take the deck off. It's so easy a caveman could do it.
 
/ Changing blades #6  
Use your 2660 to pick it up. I pick up my Cub Supers with my BX all the time.
 
/ Changing blades #7  
Use your 2660 to pick it up. I pick up my Cub Supers with my BX all the time.

I was going to say the same thing. I put a chain on the front frame bracket and pick it up almost vertical. Saves the back. Easier to power wash the deck, too. There is no fluid leakage at all with this technique, not even the battery case.
 
/ Changing blades #8  
I built an A frame from 4x6 legs, 4x8 beam and use a 1ton chain hoist. I can pick up either end and barely bend over to reach under the deck. Also makes it easy to clean and lube all moving parts. I use a air impact to remove and when reinstalling turn torque down so I don't over tighten.
 
/ Changing blades
  • Thread Starter
#9  
SAM MAC-

I HAD THOUGHT ABOUT THAT. JUST WANTING SOMEONE TO CONFIRM THAT IDEA. THANKS ALOT.
 
/ Changing blades #10  
i use a chain hoist pull her up to a 45 degree angle and use the impact,makes a quick job out of it
 
/ Changing blades #11  
Now if your LTX1040 is a 2009 model it takes special blades with a "special" star pattern as they only fit one way and have to turn 90 degrees from each other to keep from hitting.also they are torqued to 102 ft lbs. A real job without a air wrench.what is good is changing the spindle brgs.are real easy and cheap.
 
/ Changing blades #12  
Now if your LTX1040 is a 2009 model it takes special blades with a "special" star pattern as they only fit one way and have to turn 90 degrees from each other to keep from hitting.also they are torqued to 102 ft lbs. A real job without a air wrench.what is good is changing the spindle brgs.are real easy and cheap.
The _last_ tool I would choose to achieve 102 ft. lbs. of torque is an air wrench. You have no way of knowing/controlling actual achieved torque values whiile risking taking the fastener past it's rated clamp loading.... Use a calibrated torque wrench.
 
/ Changing blades #13  
The _last_ tool I would choose to achieve 102 ft. lbs. of torque is an air wrench. You have no way of knowing/controlling actual achieved torque values whiile risking taking the fastener past it's rated clamp loading.... Use a calibrated torque wrench.

I've been using an air wrench for 34 years to change the blades since my first 1978 Cub 1450. I really don't think the torque is that critical as long as the blades are tight. Good luck removing the blades without an air wrench.

Bob B.
 
/ Changing blades #14  
I've been using an air wrench for 34 years to change the blades since my first 1978 Cub 1450. I really don't think the torque is that critical as long as the blades are tight. Good luck removing the blades without an air wrench.

Bob B.
And I've been rejecting assemblies built that way since the '60s. One can use an air wrench to assist in breaking loose a stubborn tight blade fastener.. but _not_ to apply clamp loads during assembly.
 
/ Changing blades #15  
And I've been rejecting assemblies built that way since the '60s. One can use an air wrench to assist in breaking loose a stubborn tight blade fastener.. but _not_ to apply clamp loads during assembly.

What does that mean? Are you an inspector on the Cub assembly line?

Bob B.
 
/ Changing blades #17  
I hook a good chain to the trailer hole on the rear of my JD mower, chock the front wheels and lift the rear of the mower up until I have easy access. I use a big C-clamp to hold the blades from turning and a long box end wrench to both loosen and tighten the bolts. I pull the bolts as tight as I can and have never had a loosening problem.
 
/ Changing blades #18  
I use my engine hoist to raise, impact off and impact on using a torque stick extension. They are a 8' long extension made out of spring steel, available in different torques, made for lugnut, they flex when torque value is reached.

Dave
 
/ Changing blades #19  
It would be interesting to take a survey and see how many people use a torque wrench to tighten blades and how many just tighten them as tight as they can. I DID use a torque wrench on the cylinder heads but apparently MTD did not.

Bob B.
 
/ Changing blades #20  
As for me I've never used a torque wrench while putting blades on. The air wrench takes em off and puts em on. In my 55 years of messing with mowers if a air wrench was avail that's what has been used. Now I do have a very good torque wench and even had it's torque checked and calibrated years ago. I use it on things like heads and manifolds etc.but never blades. I've had friends get hurt trying to use a torque wrench on blades when the block they used to hold the blades slipped. etc.
 

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