Cheap overhead doors

[lman]

7 in stock at Marquette for $304.

 

[CH4Ohio]

One of the most common home remodels is to finish a garage into additional living space. This results in lots of garage doors getting trashed. However some of them find their way onto sites like FB and CL. A while back I bought 4 16' doors to enclose part of a barn. If you're patient, and search every few days, I bet you can find them. Often they'll have openers with them too and the sellers are always anxious to deal to get rid of them. MUCH better than trying to build your own.

 

[CH4Ohio]

8'x7' Insulated Overhead Garage Door - materials - by owner - sale - craigslist

I have a Haas insulated overhead garage door, 8ft wide by 7ft high, that I will be removing very soon before I install a new 16'x7' garage door. This garage door has no dents or rust, insulated and...

toledo.craigslist.org

Here's an example around here. Super cheap way to put in safe functional doors. A garage door is the heaviest movable component in your house. You don't want to play around with trying to rig up something that's going to fall and hurt someone. Used but perfectly usable doors are easy to find if you take the time to look.

 

[Mendonsy]

Before you install those 7' high doors you should check the ROPS height on your tractor. I think you will find that it is more than 7' and folding it every time you want to use the doors is a pain!

 

[5030]

One thing I don't screw around with are overhead doors, cheap or not. The tension spring can kill you if you don't know what you are doing. When I have overhead door issues, I call a professional, always. Of course mine are large... 16 foot high x 10 feet wide. No opener either, just a chain. If it's tensioned right, you don't need no stinking opener.

 

[kenmbz]

One thing I don't screw around with are overhead doors, cheap or not. The tension spring can kill you if you don't know what you are doing. When I have overhead door issues, I call a professional, always. Of course mine are large... 16 foot high x 10 feet wide. No opener either, just a chain. If it's tensioned right, you don't need no stinking opener.

If they have the cable retainer is on right they are not a big deal.
No cable spring retainer and I won;t even look at working on one.

 

[5030]

Have no idea what that is. On my big overhead door, the torsion spring is retained in tension with a drilled end collar that has a stub rod that engages the the metal boss that the door mounts to and tensioning that spring, I leave to a professional installer. Not ever thinking about doing that myself, ever.

Way too much 'energy' contained in that spring that would cause you great harm or death if it ever came loose with you up there facing the 'bleed' end.

 

[MossRoad]

If they have the cable retainer is on right they are not a big deal.
No cable spring retainer and I won;t even look at working on one.

Yep. That's for the ones with the large coil springs that run parallel to the track. It's what I have in my old garage. It's supposed to keep the spring in place and let it snap in one plane if it breaks.

The ones with the spring across the door opening have a 4-star device on the spring shaft, and you have to use pry-levers to turn it. Put one in, give it a quarter or half turn, put in another on, back off a bit, remove the first one, move it to the next hole in the star, repeat. If you miss, or the lever pulls out of the star.... WHACK! At best, it'll knock you silly and only break your jaw. At worst... yikes! Knock you off the ladder where all kinds of bad things can happen.

The new ones have the spring across the door opening also. I've installed a few of them. Pretty easy. As I recall, there's a paint stripe across the un-tensioned spring. There's a drill-drive gear on the end. Following instructions (a gift many of us do not have ) you start winding the spring with the drill until so many revolutions of the end of the stripe occur. How many revs is based on the size of the door, spring, etc. When you hit that number of revolutions, you stop. That's about it.

If the spring breaks on either of the latter of the two, it should (should) remain on the shaft, and if it breaks on the first example, it should (should) remain on the safety cables.

Nothing to fear. Just respect. Kinda like lighting.

 

[not2old]

I've repaired a fair number of 7' high doors so I know the procedure well. A few higher doors had me working carefully but had no problems so I decided to instal my own shop door which is 13'6" high and 16' wide. At my age (75) I find that winding the springs is not that easy. I will not use my 12' step ladder as I did years ago, but set up some scaffold so that I am more secure at that height. For years, I've had a pair of 5/8" cold rolled steel bars I've used for this purpose and with this door find that they are getting slight bends in them. This is nearing the limit of my ability to crank up more turns and I'm not a small guy at 6'2" and 210 lbs. This is just to let everyone know how much force is needed and how much energy is stored in the springs. Very serious injury could easily happen.

 

[5030]

Very serious injury could easily happen.

Or death if you happen to get tangled up with your tensioning bars. Nothing better than a quick rubba-dub from them to end your existence. Lots of pent up kinetic energy there and why I leave that chore to a professional technician (that has insurance as well).