CHEAPEST WAY TO BUILD LOADING RAMPS

[zzvyb6]

Would it be possible to disassemble the main deck from the pontoons? Then you would have a light top section and two heavy pontoons which could then be dragged easily out of the water by going slow but steady.

Boat shops around here frequently put on new pontoons because of cracks, dents and other malfunctions. I would be surprised if they were welded on. Then put it back together.

 

[shadetree]

How could it be obvious? From what I can see in that closely cropped picture sliding the trailer up to the front of the boat would be no problem. If it is too tall which it must be for you to insist on ramps. I'd pile enough dirt in front of the hulls forming a ramp no need for lips just pull straight (wet freeze = slick). This will work. Unless you can post pictures proving otherwise. In that case hire a roll back wrecker. Tell the driver to wet the deck down good. It should be a sheet of ice when they arrive. Or the wrecker service may have wheels or rollers that can be used. They are sometimes called recovery services. And yes they've probably already seen a boat stuck in the water before.

When you post all your pictures let's see some of the boat in sail that must be a beautiful sight.

 

[bard]

NO Shadetree - it is NOT currently possible to get the trailer under the boat until it actually floats- don't you think I would have done that? Also, dragging the boat further onto the bank will only make matters worse for obvious reasons

Bard - the overall beam (width) of the boat is 2500mm (Maximum legal trailer width). The boat is 5.5 metres long (20') so the dimension you asked about is about 21-22' At that point, the dam is about 4-5' deep with a steep downward slope

The idea of a coffer dam is a very good one but not practical due to lack of appropriate machinery and rock-hard ground. It would necessary to cut sideways (across the two bows of the boat) before back-blading out the spoil. I would not be game to get my Ford 6000 that close to the edge so the only way to do it would be to get in a dozer but that would probably create more trouble than it would solve (I'm no stranger to having one working here).

Yes, getting enough water out will raise the access hatches to the waterline and if that can be achieved, it will not be necessary to pump in air because the change of angle will be sufficient to get ramps under each bow and then start winching forward. Draining will then occur naturally as stated previously. This is exactly what has to be done

Perhaps totally off the wall...


I was thinking of something made from pond liner and sewer pipe. Float it into position and then pump water into the sewer pipe to sink it to the bottom.

Have a stout pump ready to pump water out of the cofferdam and an additional pump ready to pump water out of the hulls once the rear access hatches can be used. Probably drop in some additional bracing to the cofferdam to make the structure stronger. Float the boat onto the trailer and get it out of the way. Then pump water out of the sewer pipe to float the cofferdam and pull it out of the water. I wouldn't expect it to be watertight, but good enough to gain access to the rear hatches.

I looked at temporary cofferdams in Google images and some examples are large bladders that are filled with water. You haven't mentioned having access to something similar.

 

[ruffdog]

We have many pontoon boats around here and they use 2 types of trailers. One is the bunk style where the pontoons sit on top of carpeted wood bunks. The other is the scissor style trailer that is narrow and goes between the pontoons. The scissor style can sit the boat right down on the ground while the bunk style needs the boat floated on. Could you get the scissor style under the boat to lift it? Another lifting item would be old waterbed mattresses and filled with air. Another item to pull the boat hull on the ground would be those plastic truck bed liners. Good luck friend!

 

[Aussiebushman]

ZZ - no - all integral construction with the cabin bonded to the deck

Bard - misunderstood - I guess here we would call that a dry dock but the concept is essential not too different to inner tubes, barrels etc you suggested earlier/ I'll give more thought to this because it seems to be the answer - like Ruffdog's suggestion of air mattresses

Ruffdog - the trailer is "bunk' style - see new picture. The raised rollers across the middle are only deployed for traveling to help reduce road-shock. Not fitted yet but the aft one will have a hydraulic cylinder to help lift the aft end where all the weight is - outboard/fuel.water etc

 

[bigtiller]

Would it be possible to lower the water in the farm pond by about 5 foot?

 

[Aussiebushman]

I guess anything is possible. Lowering the dam level would allow something to be placed below the aft ends of the hulls to lift them, but 5' would be equivalent to over half the total dam contents. Getting into a wet suit and placing flotation devices would actually be easier.

I'm going to see if I can buy a dry suit because if you know anything about wet suits they are not really appropriate for freezing conditions.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this issue and let me add that there is no such thing as a silly suggestion! Often these can start a new thought process leading to something that is practical. For example another possible solution is to replace my outdated SCUBA tank (I am/was a diver so this gear will not be wasted). When air bags are placed under the hulls they can be inflated with the air from the tank/regulator. We used to do this to lift heavy sacks of abalone to the surface when I used to dive professionally a couple of zillion years ago

 

[Wagtail]

I'm going to see if I can buy a dry suit because if you know anything about wet suits they are not really appropriate for freezing conditions.

Oh, harden up & dry your eyes Princess!

Just have a nice, long, warm p!ss in the wetsuit and you'll warm up quick-smart! :laughing:

[Cuff-rate Navy diver]

 

[Aussiebushman]

I did say there was no such thing as a silly suggestion but Wagtail has proved me wrong. At age 75 having has pneumonia once before, I'll be a princess if I choose. FU2

Bought a used dry suit in good condition yesterday for only $150

 

[shadetree]

That would close to pay for the roll back - the cheapest way to "build" (one time use) loading ramps.