check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness

   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness #61  
The ratchet head of just about any commercially available ratcheting torque wrench is separate and distinct from the torque sensing apparatus. I can't imagine why it is so difficult for you to grasp this fact and accept it.
Enjoy the rest of your day.

Because, when you post something like this, it can lead to others trying the same thing...and possibly screwing up.
I have no idea what you may have (or may not have) disturbed or misaligned during disassembly and reassembly...or, if you're as qualified as you think you are (no insult intended with that statement, so don't take offense).

Obviously, I understand the criticality of correct torquing. Part of the last 30 years in QA work.

You also enjoy your day...
 
   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness #62  
Because, when you post something like this, it can lead to others trying the same thing...and possibly screwing up.
I have no idea what you may have (or may not have) disturbed or misaligned during disassembly and reassembly...or, if you're as qualified as you think you are (no insult intended with that statement, so don't take offense).

Obviously, I understand the criticality of correct torquing. Part of the last 30 years in QA work.

You also enjoy your day...

I bear no burden of responsibility for however poorly other folks apply any accurate info that I or anyone else provide here.
Part of my daily routine is making allowances and excuses for the products resulting from bunch of well-intended QA protocols.
 
   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness #63  
I bear no burden of responsibility for however poorly other folks apply any accurate info that I or anyone else provide here.
Part of my daily routine is making allowances and excuses for the products resulting from bunch of well-intended QA protocols.


Curious...I have to do the same when trying to explain to Production or the Customer when the Engineering guys screwed the pooch.
Small world, isn't it?
 
   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness #64  
A few years ago I had a Craftsman 3/8" drive torque wrench that had a locking nut in the handle come loose. Sears showed me on the owners manual that it was only warrantied for (90?) days. I sent it to a link provided earlier in this discussion to be repaired and calibrated. It was Team Torque who did it. Cost me as much as the wrench did new.
 
   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness #65  
Having done the work myself, and being a mechanical engineer, I believe that the work done on the ratchet mechanism is independent of the torque performance and calibration of the wrench. The wrench could certainly benefit from a periodic calibration, but not because of the work done on the ratchet head. All the ratchet parts sit within a collar that attaches to the rest of the wrench, and simply transmit the applied torque to the socket. It either works, or doesn't. Whatever effect it has on the applied torque is either going to be to transmit it 100%, or not transmit it at all.

That's pretty much it in a nutshell. Thanks.
 
   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness #66  
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPYDERLK
What you are seeing there is a settling into the hub of the lug and the wheel, not a stretch of the lug. Otherwise yould be seeing engine bolts requiring re torque. Head bolts can benefit cuz of gasket settling, but metal to metal like rods and mains dont need it.
larry

I can't argue with that, so I'll consider it as probable as the bolt stretching explanation. Possibly it's some of both.

Usually the wheel to hub interface is metal to metal, as is the lug nut to wheel interface, right? How does this fit in with your assessment?

Might we consider that the metallurgy of rods and their bolts may be different than that of lugs and wheels? Also that lugs as typically installed have a wheel thickness's worth of space between the nut and the hub in which the threads are not engaged, and that rod cap bolts do not? Might these differences add up to the possibility that there is some lug stretching going on?

Well, either way the result is the same. Re-torque and THEN put on a dab of paint.
No doubt, with a new stud and nut, both are a factor, but the stud-nut component is vanishingly small in comparison to component settling. In steel, the crystal slip planes are inhibited by carbon. ... So when loaded in one direction to near yield there is some very small movement as the keying effect jams tight. Once this extremely small plastic deformation happens the stud becomes tensily elastic at that length up to very high stresses. It is not elastic at those stresses when put under cycles of alternating compression and tension. It works this way for torsion as well. Bolts therefore can undergo some small damage on repeated usage if high reverse torque is needed to crack them loose for removal. With very highly stressed bolts this can become critical in a few twisting cycles.
....Settling OTOH is huge in a new assembly when all important factors have not been controlled; *studs are pressed into the carrier leaving residual compression and accompanying diametral expansion in the press fit area, *the stud may not reach, or may rebound slightly from the pressed position, *the wheel is not formed accurately to fit exactly and settle uniformly against the hub, *there is probably paint on it, * the taper sockets for the lugs have not been stressed to cause the slip plane keying, *etc. Using the stud to draw in and clamp, and then follow on use to facilitate settling puts the system into stable conformation where torque/preload wont change w/o rotation on the threads. If a wheel or stud is replaced, do it again. ... Systems that must rely on first stress cycle stability are extremely well controlled in manufacture and assembly.

....Yeah, but all bolt fastening systems that clamp tight will have a clearance hole in at least one piece.
larry
 
   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness #67  
No, I work in a different environment. If I have to take a tool down, then my whole bench is down. When a tool goes down and needs repair, it gets recalibrated if it is opened up and worked on; once break the cal seals on the chassis. Then it takes two weeks to get the tools sent out for the ISO level cal we require because the internal cal lab does not have the level of rating required for my labs specific needs.

I do not think it is posturing and bluster; it is the wide variety of backgrounds we have here on TBN. I understand the concepts of operation of torque wrenches. Some of my work background overflows on to my approaches to work at home. After working on something like that, I like to see that it meets spec.

You miss my point. The wrench either is within calibration spec or it isn't. Disassembling the ratchet doesn't affect calibration in the least.

For all the bluster and posturing, some basic understanding of how the tool actually works might benefit some of the participants here.
 
   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness
  • Thread Starter
#68  
There's a torsion bar or spring and a pawl inside. The fit and alignment of that pawl is what's critical. When apart, the pawl should be measured for wear.
Most torque wrenches (and measuring equipment in general) are cleaned and verified during calibration. This equipment isn't normally disassembled unless there's a error in the tool.

At this point, you're using a device with unknown accuracy. That's a risk...just depends if you can live with that risk.


I don't want to beat a dead horse, but the ratchet head is 100% independent of the torque setting/sensing mechanism. You remove a small torx screw on the ratchet dial at the top, and it comes off one side while the square driver comes off the other. The ratchet guts are in between the two. The ratchet mechanism is then removed and cleaned/rebuilt on the workbench. The leaves the handle intact, with its torque setting/sensing mechanism inside the handle and completely undisturbed.

There's no doubt the wrench could benefit from calibration. But that's got nothing to do with work done to the ratchet head. Heck if you are worried about that, I'd suggest you should calibrate your wrench every time you attach and remove sockets! ;)
 
   / check your lug nuts + torque wrench madness #69  
I don't want to beat a dead horse, but the ratchet head is 100% independent of the torque setting/sensing mechanism.........

No, you are quite right to straighten out that misconception, or at least try! :thumbsup:
 

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