Chinese digger recommendations

[Jrasband]

I have no doubts that you can find replacement motors that have the same bolt pattern. My own motors, which lost their maker-plates, have the same pattern as the 2 spares I have. Those spares are also Chinese motors, but not from the same maker, and the unused ports are in different locations on the casting.

Rather than toss my current motors for ones that have the RVs, I would rather just get the RVs and the know-how to attach them in the correct ports.

Of course, all the folks who are running without filtration may need to replace their wheel motors soon anyway....

What is it that makes the wheel motors particularly vulnerable without filtration?

Of all the machines I looked at I did not see any with filters on them, including the Kymron ZX22 - Sounds like this is is something I need to consider adding, space is really tight so it will be challenging.

 

[D'oh]

I see a trend in the 3-5T excavators towards selling them with V-twin gas engines, and without the better wheel motors that have braking action. I also see that bizarre hydraulic thumb design that is doomed to fail.

AgroTek had several units like that in the $7-8K range at last Saturday's auction, before fees and tax.

I like the V-twin GX670-clone engines: cheap, powerful, easy to repair.

The only issue I have had in all of my V Twins, (but the Traner45 Gravity Fuel) 739cc Rato and 999cc ? is the Vacuum Fuel Lift Pumps, a $15 Electric Low Pressure Fuel Pump fixes that issue. And the Torch (brand) Spark Plugs.

 

[dfkrug]

The only issue I have had in all of my V Twins, (but the Traner45 Gravity Fuel) 739cc Rato and 999cc ? is the Vacuum Fuel Lift Pumps, a $15 Electric Low Pressure Fuel Pump fixes that issue. And the Torch (brand) Spark Plugs.

yeah, the diaphragm fuel pumps are probably the same as on your lawn tractor. They go out or get weak rapidly as the diaphragm gets stiff from the 10% ethanol fuel. $10 on eBay, and regular replacement item. I use the $15 electric pump on my Samurai, and have already had one fail.

There are a number of Chonda thumpers now in the 450+cc range, but nothing over 500cc AFAIK. Yet. That's 2-cylinder territory, and they go from 600+ ccs up to a liter or so. Honda even has them with FI ($$$$).

I have not had problems with the Torch plugs. Denso, Bosch, or even Champion may be the better plugs these days.

 

[dfkrug]

What is it that makes the wheel motors particularly vulnerable without filtration?

Of all the machines I looked at I did not see any with filters on them, including the Kymron ZX22 - Sounds like this is is something I need to consider adding, space is really tight so it will be challenging.

The whole hyd system is very vulnerable to dirty fluid, but variable piston motors (and pumps) are especially so. Worn-out gear pumps and leaky gearoller wheel motor seals have been reported for Chinese minis with no pressure-return filtration.

I would be surprised if the ZX22 has no return filter. But hey, I have been surprised before. Like the Diggit machine I have worked on, it may have in-line filter(s), that are kinda hidden. You really want a 10u easy-to-service cartridge filter.

Get any manuals you can, but you should also do your own investigations.

 

[Jrasband]

The whole hyd system is very vulnerable to dirty fluid, but variable piston motors (and pumps) are especially so. Worn-out gear pumps and leaky gearoller wheel motor seals have been reported for Chinese minis with no pressure-return filtration.

I would be surprised if the ZX22 has no return filter. But hey, I have been surprised before. Like the Diggit machine I have worked on, it may have in-line filter(s), that are kinda hidden. You really want a 10u easy-to-service cartridge filter.

Get any manuals you can, but you should also do your own investigations.

The manual talks about a hydraulic filter insert that is replaced after 50 hours than every 500 hours after that. The manual states if you are doing hammer work hydraulic oil/filter need to be replaced sooner and indicates percentage.

The manual says there is also a breather filter on the hydraulic oil reservoir.

The manual does not tell me where the hydraulic filter is or how to change it - all service related topics refer operator to licensed Kymron service center.

I will take the panels off again soon and take pictures. If you see where the hydraulic filters are please let me know.

 

[Jrasband]

Here is some pictures of the inside of the Kymron ZX22

 

[Carl_NH]

Nice clean routing of hoses and access to turnstile/slew motor, Also the "house" underneath the machine is totally enclosed with grease on the mating surfaces, The house is rotating on the base frame making it more durable along with the slew motor long term.

These are the things that make the machine cost more to build.

 

[Carl_NH]

I know you asked about filters - didn't see any in the pics, but there should be at least two and hopefully three. 1- is inside the hyd oil tank, 2, should be one on the pilot controls (small 2"x7") and 3 on the return hyd oil back into the cooler then to the tank.

The in tank one is a coarse 80u intake filter for large particles , the more important one is the in line return oil filter which you should have I would hope on this "pro" version from Kymron.

 

[Jrasband]

I know you asked about filters - didn't see any in the pics, but there should be at least two and hopefully three. 1- is inside the hyd oil tank, 2, should be one on the pilot controls (small 2"x7") and 3 on the return hyd oil back into the cooler then to the tank.

The in tank one is a coarse 80u intake filter for large particles , the more important one is the in line return oil filter which you should have I would hope on this "pro" version from Kymron.

1. - I know that it has a filter inside of the hydraulic tank - It is under the plate on top of the tank.
2. Where would it be in the pilot controls you think? I have not located anything yet. Is the pilot controls the housing where all the lines come together in th picture?
3. How do I know which line is the return line? Looking at the two lines at the bottom of the tank - One goes to valve body(pilot control?), the other goes to the hydraulic pump housing next to the engine.

What would be the best way to go about adding an aftermarket filter in the return line? I thought maybe a filter could go under the cooler/radiator or under the valve body(pilot control?)

 

[Jrasband]

Is this a suitable filter for the return line? Lenz Spin-On Filters Assembly: 10 Micron, 1 1/4 NPTF Port, 15 PSI Bypass, CP-1280-10P-T