Choosing a Box Blade for JD 4300 32 HP 4X4

[slane01]

I am a tractor newbie....I have realized that my cheap back blade is about useless for leveling any type of ground. I am in search of a good/affordable box blade. I have looked at the King Kutter 72" from TSC, and a Midwest BB20-72. So far the Midwest looks like a better heavier constructed box blade.

I have a couple of questions on how big of a box blade my tractor can realistically handle. My tire track width is about 5 ft. So I would need at least a 5.5 ft. Could this tractor handle a 7ft? The 7Ft Midwest blade looks built really solid. It looks like the steel jumps from 3/8" on the 6ft box to 1/2" on the 7ft box.

Also, I have read several opinions on options such as a rollover box, or a box with a rear hinge plate, Are these options necessary.

I am planning on leveling off some uneven ground in my yard, and eventually plan on using it for grading and landscaping my new house I will be building.

How are the Woods & Land Pride Box Blades?

Any Help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Steve Lane

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

I have a 4200 MFWD (4 x 4) and use a 5' box blade with it. I know I wouldn't want anything bigger than that and there are more than a few times I've wished for more tractor with that blade.

I looked at the King Kutter and bought a First Choice brand box blade which was designed by Integrated Engineering and manufactured by Midwest. I've been very happy with mine and have used it a lot. I'd have no problem recommending one like mine to anyone.

The welds, fit and finish were all really first quality and, since it was my very first implement I guarantee you I scrutinized it in great detail. I know the temptation is always to go to the largest implement your machine can pull. In this case, however, consider that it's not just the implement you're going to be pulling. If you get even a 5' box blade full of stone from your drive it'll be all your 4300 will want to lug.

Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[bebster]

I opted for a 5.5 ft wide box blade (from Frontier) for my JD 4410. I figured that it was wider than the tires, so that was a factor. If I went wider (say 6') it would cut the number of passes down by 10% but that's not that important. Also, it would be a little more maneuverable. At 7' your 32HP will likely bog down if you were to fill it. But I don't think you can go wrong with anything between 5.5 and 6 or even 7'.

 

[slane01]

Well I have purchased a Midwest BB20-72 Box Blade today. So far it seems to work pretty well...though since I have not mowed down the 1/2 acre field I am leveling, the grass gets clogged in the box quite easily.

All and all, it seems to be a real quality box for the money.

Thanks Again
Steve

 

[Enidguy]

I'm trying to level my drive with my box blade and am having trouble getting the drive smooth. I had two loads of gravel delivered(about 30 tons) and can't get the woop de doos out of it. It seems the tractor goes up and the box goes down and I end up with ripples. Is this a technique problem? Any suggestions?

 

[KennyV]

Box blade can work for what you are trying … It takes some practice, and a little variation of technique…

With your box mostly full adjust your top link short so your blade is not aggressively cutting leave your three point in float and increase your speed. As you reach the ends of each run raise your box blade while you are still moving fast enough to allow rock to flow out as you finish each pass. If you slightly shorten the inside lift link you can get a reasonable crown on your drive.

With a lot of practice you will fall into a natural speed/flow /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif … if not it is still a lot of fun (I mean work), and you can call them speed deterrents if you don’t get them all out. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

An angled drag is very helpful to remove these undulations… after you spread your aggregate with a BB. There have been several posted on this site in the past RR rail, I or H beams some very cleaver rigs. ... KennyV.

 

[Enidguy]

Thanks KennyV I'll give it a try.

 

[Mark4510]

Steve,
Welcome to TBN.
I have a 6' Gearmore box scraper and think it works very well. Not sure if you will find them in your area as they are out of CA. (shipping costs being what they are)

I use mine weekly for many things and find it has held up to everything. If you have a Gearmore dealer you might take a look.

http://www.gearmore.com/RANCH.htm

Mark

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

The 72" is what I have for my 4310 and I am happy with it. It is a Monroe Tufline, very well built. I wish it had thicker sides for even more weight. My dealer was afraid I couldn't pull it but I've found out I can pull it just fine. If you need more traction, fill your FEL with a load and let the front end help pull. My tires are R4's and are filled.
When I needed to cut into a slight slope for my foundation, I lowered 2 rippers at first. The 4310 didn't know it was back there and I ended up putting all the rippers to their lowest(fullest) extension. I can scrape about a half inch of clay off at a time. This is due to thats all the box wants to cut with its weight. If it was heavier, it would bog down the 4310. Just for fun, I put it behind our 5420 MFWD, still it needed more weight to make it "dig in". Its funny, the 4310 was almost as fast moving the dirt because of the hydrostatic. Maneuverability with the smaller tractor was so much better. I can see why a landscaper can easily get by with one of these machines unless doing large scale projects.