Choosing a Tranny

[dglambert]

So, I found out the hard way that a JD LA145 and its K46 tranny aren't really up to the task for me. I'll admit when I bought this, I more or less was shopping for engine HP and assumed that all transmissions were created equal. I was wrong.

So, in an effort to avoid making the same mistake again, I need to get up to speed, so to speak, on choosing a transmission (not to mention the rest of the tractor). My main job is mowing -- about 1.5 acres with a (relatively) gentle slope. I'd really love to be able to add a snowblower (better) or blade (ok), as well as a dump cart. A johnny bucket might be nice, too. My recent experience suggests this isn't the "LA" series.

I'm inclined to swear off hydrostats altogether, but I can see lots of high-end tractors that use them, so I'll start with Question #1: Why would I want a hydrostat at all (vs. a geared transmission)?

Question 2 -- if there's a good reason to want a hydrostat at all, how do I know it's not one that's going to wheeze up hills? I can see that higher-end trannys have locking diffs -- is that a reliable indicator of a heavy-duty tranny? I've also seen people indicate that bolt-on hubs / wheels vs. the key & clip wheels on the LA are a good indicator of a higher-end tranny. True?

 

[tomplum]

They are all really in the spec sheet. Serviceable is best. Some will have their favorites though it isn't like you are overloading it. You will find gear tractors in LNG pretty much non existent.

 

[Tractorable]

When I began my research for a mower I learned, as you have, that you’re actually shopping the transmission. I considered a zero turn but decided to go with the garden tractor because of its versatility to tow a dump cart/aerator/sweeper/spreader/sprayer etc.

I read the horror stories of the cheapie hydrostats failing early and I bit the bullet and bought a JD X590 with a K72 transmission. Serviceable, with a locking diff, I’ve had no issues in the three years we’ve owned it. My favorite feature of the X590 is the fuel injected motor because I know that if I’m away on a business trip, my wife just has to turn the key and it starts just like a car. No choke or carburetors to mess with, starts every time, hot or cold.

 

[RBLapham]

So, in an effort to avoid making the same mistake again, I need to get up to speed, so to speak, on choosing a transmission (not to mention the rest of the tractor). My main job is mowing -- about 1.5 acres with a (relatively) gentle slope. I'd really love to be able to add a snowblower (better) or blade (ok), as well as a dump cart. A johnny bucket might be nice, too. My recent experience suggests this isn't the "LA" series.

I have a 2010 Deere X300 with the K46 and do everything you want to do with no problems after 335 hours. But I have changed the K46 oil 3 times now with 5W50 synthetic motor oil and it still pulls like new. The K46 gets a bad rap on the forums, usually only people with problems post. Tuff Torque has produced over 6 million K46's and you hardly hear from the ones running without problems. Biggest help is replacing the 10W30 standard motor oil Deere specified with 5W50 Synthetic to help it last. Here I wrote a post on changing the K46 oil K46 oil change with pictures. I say you run your LA till it dies.

 

[Diggin It]

I have an X-300 with over 1,000 hours. It was not properly maintained by the PO. One of the first things I did was change hydro oil. That means dropping it, inverting it, draining, the turning back upright, filling, and reinstalling. Alternately, you can remove, take the bottom plate off and drain that way. Not something most people want to do yearly. There are instructions out there on how/where to drill holes and install drain plugs, but I didn't do that. It helped, but it's still weak, moreso once it gets hot.

As it was explained to me elsewhere, that level of machine is a lawn cutter, intended for urban or suburban lawns that are reasonably level. They are not intended for work. They are not intended for steeper slopes. They are not intended to pull things other than wheeled carts.

OP needs to be looking for a GT, Garden Tractor. They have more substantial transmissions and are designed to do more of the tasks outlined.

Question 2 -- if there's a good reason to want a hydrostat at all, how do I know it's not one that's going to wheeze up hills? I can see that higher-end trannys have locking diffs -- is that a reliable indicator of a heavy-duty tranny? I've also seen people indicate that bolt-on hubs / wheels vs. the key & clip wheels on the LA are a good indicator of a higher-end tranny. True?

Yes, you want a Hydro, unless you want to be shifting gears every few minutes doing routine tasks.

All hydros 'wheeze'. That's the sound of fluid being moved under high pressure. Some do it louder than others. Some move uphill slower than others, but are capable of pulling more weight.

Locking differentials will help in situations where one wheel spins. I'm not sure it's a sign of a higher end transmission.

I've seen cases where the wheel bolts on to a hub, but the hub slips onto a shaft with a key, so no, not necessarily.

Do research, check specs, avoid lower ends transmissions for what you want to do. Look for a GT, Garden tractor, not an L (lawn) or similar. The lower end Big Box store riders may have an E or D instead of an L. A Garden Tractor will likely be $2500 minimum and can go up to $7500 or more. A $1500-$2000 rider will have a lower end transmission.

As far as any kind of bucket on the front, you need to be concerned about front suspension and how the wheels are mounted. Lower end grass cutters have a simple shaft, bushing and pin type mount with a tie rod for steering control. Also, the front portions of the frames are usually stamped and folded sheet metal. They will not handle a loaded bucket well. .

There has been some discussion here about a Husqvarna model but I can't remember the number, something 354 I think.. Also the Cub XT3 has been mentioned.

 

[js5020]

So, I found out the hard way that a JD LA145 and its K46 tranny aren't really up to the task for me. I'll admit when I bought this, I more or less was shopping for engine HP and assumed that all transmissions were created equal. I was wrong.

So, in an effort to avoid making the same mistake again, I need to get up to speed, so to speak, on choosing a transmission (not to mention the rest of the tractor). My main job is mowing -- about 1.5 acres with a (relatively) gentle slope. I'd really love to be able to add a snowblower (better) or blade (ok), as well as a dump cart. A johnny bucket might be nice, too. My recent experience suggests this isn't the "LA" series.

I'm inclined to swear off hydrostats altogether, but I can see lots of high-end tractors that use them, so I'll start with Question #1: Why would I want a hydrostat at all (vs. a geared transmission)?

Question 2 -- if there's a good reason to want a hydrostat at all, how do I know it's not one that's going to wheeze up hills? I can see that higher-end trannys have locking diffs -- is that a reliable indicator of a heavy-duty tranny? I've also seen people indicate that bolt-on hubs / wheels vs. the key & clip wheels on the LA are a good indicator of a higher-end tranny. True?

By your description you need an actual garden tractor, the K46 in my opinion isn't up to snuff when it comes to pushing and pulling things. Yes I have a K46 equipped JDx300R with 450 hrs, it's a dedicated mower, I did pull a 10cuft. Trailer with it a few times full of dirt or rocks and quickly came to the conclusion not to pull stuff with it I just didn't like the whimpy feeling of the transaxle when loaded. As a primary mowing machine you want a hydro, I used to be a gear guy myself but the hydro is much more productive in my opinion. A good hydro will last but they come in machines that cost more than what is sold at the big box stores. If JD is a must move up to the x5 series machines or depending on your area a used x7 series. Much heavier duty hydro in these suited for ground engagement work.

 

[snymat68]

:laughing::laughing:

 

[Topcat14]

You need at least a unit with a K58- preferably a K72 if you want to use a blade and or snow blower. I recommend the JD X500 series machines- they will do all you want ( plus much more) and last you the next 20/25 years - if you really want to spend some money you can always go the Cadillac of Garden tractors route-- the X7xx series

If you are going to be in property a while, feel pain once, suck it up and buy yourself an X590

 

[Atchuuu]

:laughing::laughing:
View attachment 604050

That took longer than I expected.

 

[dglambert]

They are all really in the spec sheet. Serviceable is best. Some will have their favorites though it isn't like you are overloading it. You will find gear tractors in LNG pretty much non existent.

It definitely seems like only older tractors have anything by hydrostats, yes.