Mowing Choosing Attachments for Kioti CX2510

[jeff9366]

Is the loader on a skid steer designed different? I've seen a few on Youtube that use a front mounted brush cutter on a skid steer.

As Skid Steers do not have to pass over crops, they are built to operate much closer to the ground. Skid Steers are construction machinery, not ag equipment. Skid Steer implements are hydraulically powered by (expensive) powerful hydraulic pumps, which make Skid Steer implements relatively expensive buy and expensive to operate. Tractors have front engines. Skid Steers have rear engines. A Skid Steer rear engine offsets loads on the Skid Steer FEL.

Skids Steers are twice as expensive per unit of work they can accomplish. None have a tractor Three Point Hitch which always includes a mechanical PTO directly powered by the tractor engine.

 

[jeff9366]

In the short term, I was thinking about putting some wheel spacers on my rear tires wheels.

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As you have loaded rear tires you should have a tractor or tire dealer install rear wheel spacers, rather than attempting installation yourself.

Realistically, this further $500 - $600 expenditure will be lipstick on a pig.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.
You cannot enjoy a tractor if you are dead.​

 

[Midniteoyl]

Is the loader on a skid steer designed different? I've seen a few on Youtube that use a front mounted brush cutter on a skid steer.

Most skid steers have a much higher hydraulic flow rate to power those, with some having even higher still. Your tractor has a flow rate of ~11gpm. You need something north of 40gpm or more unless you are going with a tractor specific front cutter like Lane Shark, but they wont even sell you one for that small of a tractor.

 

[ArchonOSX]

I believe the third on your tractor as it is configured from the factory will not operate a brush cutter or other skid steer type attachment that needs a constant flow of hydraulic fluid.
Apparently, LaneShark sells an adapter (Full C-Flow Hydraulic Kit) to allow the continuous flow of hydraulic fluid for a brush cutter or other such attachment to the front of the tractor. C-Flow Third Function Hydraulic Kits
Your would then be limited by the flow rate of your tractor's hydraulic system and the required flow rate of the attachment.
I would guess that you are going to need a bigger tractor any way you look at it. You might run a 4 or 5 foot brush hog with that tractor but anything larger will not be an option.
Good luck with your project!

 

[jeff9366]

That tractor with the loader and loaded tires is closer to 3,500 pounds. Mine is over 4,000 on the scale with a ballast box on it.

While a Loader adds weight, it also shifts weight off the rear driving wheels, so FEL weight is considered "neutral" weight in terms of field performance.

A ballast box AND loaded rear tires uses too much of the tractor's modest <25 hp mobility power, especially with HST transmissions.

This can go on-and-on but is why the simplest measure of tractor capability is bare tractor weight.

A change of 15% in bare tractor weight is indiscernible in field work. It takes an increase of 50% in bare tractor weight before the operator will appreciate it over every tractor application.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR​

 

[jeff9366]

1) Jeff is invested in weight as the solution to traction.

Jeff is not invested in anything. Tractor shoppers frequently become confused trying to understand tractor capability. Bare tractor weight is a "one number" tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used. This "number" should get tractor shoppers into the ballpark. I only recommend bare tractor weight as an objective starting point.

Many with their own preferences justify them one the basis of two or three, sometime more tractor preferences. However, to opine in my playground on an apples-to apples basis, others must stick to one (1) criterion too.

I have owned three tractors. The first a 2-WD,1,900 pound, Deere 750 compact category "learner" without a Loader. The second a 4-WD Kubota B3300SU tractor-loader package (2,200 pounds +/-). The third, a 4-WD 3,700 pound Kubota L3560. Had I early read a thread philosophizing on tractor weight it would have stimulated tractor weight research and I would have omitted purchase of tractor #2, which was hardly any heavier that the Deere 750, which proved too light for my applications. I purchased tractor #2 seduced by the allure of increased horsepower.

 

[iptman]

I believe the third on your tractor as it is configured from the factory will not operate a brush cutter or other skid steer type attachment that needs a constant flow of hydraulic fluid.
Apparently, LaneShark sells an adapter (Full C-Flow Hydraulic Kit) to allow the continuous flow of hydraulic fluid for a brush cutter or other such attachment to the front of the tractor. C-Flow Third Function Hydraulic Kits
Your would then be limited by the flow rate of your tractor's hydraulic system and the required flow rate of the attachment.
I would guess that you are going to need a bigger tractor any way you look at it. You might run a 4 or 5 foot brush hog with that tractor but anything larger will not be an option.
Good luck with your project!

The rear remotes on my 2510 are constant flow. They run the BH.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

The field portion is probably 20 acres or so.

At 2.5 mph, a realistic speed for your narrow tractor over sloped pasture, a 48" wide Rotary Cutter will mow one (1) acre per hour.

I don't know what I'm going to do with the open portion, let it grow for wildlife or try to farm part of it.

Other than for a non-commercial kitchen garden your 2,300 pound bare weight tractor is insufficient for commercial farm tasks. All you will do is damage the tractor and/or damage yourself. TRACTORS ARE DANGEROUS.

11 acres previous cow pasture smoothing bumps

So I have about 11 acres of pretty descent grass but it was previous to 1970's was part of 100's of acres of cow pasture. I tell ya I mow it with a 4' Toro Zero Turn and I take quite a beating! Lol! To make it worse the northeastern PA soil is basically all rocks too. My question is how can I...

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Picking the right size tractor?

I have a few acres on the side of a hill. I bought a Kioti Cx2510hst two years back thought it was the perfect size and was in stock. But now I am really disappointed in how it only has one gear/speed about 2 mph on my hilly property. Starting to think I might need some sort of stick shift...

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By farming I meant for home use. A large garden and chickens perhaps.

 

[Santa Craig Cringle]

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.
You cannot enjoy a tractor if you are dead.​

I get it dude.
You have to understand I bought the CX2510 to use on 1 acre at my current home. Now moving to a 50 acre lot, it’s what I have to start on the homesite and get under dry. A bigger tractor won’t be in the cards for a year or two, but I’ll get there.

I won’t be tackling the big projects without the proper equipment. I’m also planning to purchase an excavator and possible a skid steer down the road, but I’m not going to go severely in debt to do it. The first priority is building the home. (By the time I finish the home I will most likely have the CX paid off with pretty low hours.)

So I’ll be using the CX to do enough brush cutting to explore the property, determine the best home site, and then some do some site prep while I get my home plans in order and find a builder.

 

[kozal01]

I get it dude.
You have to understand I bought the CX2510 to use on 1 acre at my current home. Now moving to a 50 acre lot, it’s what I have to start on the homesite and get under dry. A bigger tractor won’t be in the cards for a year or two, but I’ll get there.

I won’t be tackling the big projects without the proper equipment. I’m also planning to purchase an excavator and possible a skid steer down the road, but I’m not going to go severely in debt to do it. The first priority is building the home. (By the time I finish the home I will most likely have the CX paid off with pretty low hours.)

So I’ll be using the CX to do enough brush cutting to explore the property, determine the best home site, and then some do some site prep while I get my home plans in order and find a builder.

Yeah, he presents everything as if its a perfect world and everyone can just buy whatever they want whenever they want, we can talk black and white specs all day but there is much more nuance to it. The CX is a heavy tractor for its class, Ive had zero issues with ground engaging implements and despite the claims above that say the loader doesn't help with tractive force is just wrong considering these are 4x4 tractors. 1,000+ pounds in the bucket, loaded tires and the weight of the tractor will give you more than enough traction for anything you could do with a compact 25 hp tractor. Sounds like you already know the limitations given your needs, just be smart about it and you will be fine. These are very capable little machines if you just use your brain. If you are getting into off camber hilly areas wheel spacers would be a good suggestion. Talk to your dealer about what size PTO driven implements they recommend on that size tractor, there is great info to be had here but with that comes a lot of opinions based off bias, or lack of experience with the particular scenario you are dealing with. I have a great personal relationship with my Kioti dealer and I would be happy to run anything by him for you if you need. He's always a straight shooter with me about my tractors capabilities.