CK 25 gear, injector pump
- Thread starter RADDAD50
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OP
RADDAD50
Bronze Member
No problem Greenmule 
, I now have the pump sitting on my bench and I found the same problem as Lexgs did the plastic gear stripped and a piece got stuck in the fuel rail. This pump is really very simple compared to some of the high pressure pumps I have rebuilt from Germany on our bottling lines.
, I now have the pump sitting on my bench and I found the same problem as Lexgs did the plastic gear stripped and a piece got stuck in the fuel rail. This pump is really very simple compared to some of the high pressure pumps I have rebuilt from Germany on our bottling lines.
dfkrug
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2004
- Messages
- 7,602
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mtns, CA
- Tractor
- 05 Kioti CK30HST w/ Prairie Dog backhoe, XN08 mini-X
You are looking at about $850.00
This is the first I have heard of these failures on the M27 tractors (CK25/27/
30/35). I see from the parts book that there are no FI pump internal parts
listed, so you may not be able to avoid ordering the whole pump. There is
an external gear on the governor sleeve that can be ordered as a sub-
assembly (#5). Is that the gear that failed? Please post pix of the failed
part(s).
If you are going to pull the pump then you may want to try the trick I just did and turn the plastic gears 180 degrees and use the good side that is not stripped. Make sure you clean out all the broken gear teeth because this
is what jams the rack. Do one injector cyclinder at a time since thay are fitted to the bore and you should not mix them. After removing the roller tappet, spring and washers you can see the gear to remove it. When pulling out the injector piston, note which way the slot on the piston is pointing. It can go in two ways but only works one way.
You need to time the gear to the rack by aligning the samll tick mark at the end of the oblong slot with the scribe line on the rack. It is very important to get this right or you may have a runaway engine when you start it. After
re-installing the pump you need to bleed the air from the injector lines by cracking the nuts at the injector end by
about one turn. Crank the engine until you see fuel leaking and then tighten the nuts. It should fire right up. I would have something ready to block the air intake just in case something goes wrong and you need to stall it.
is what jams the rack. Do one injector cyclinder at a time since thay are fitted to the bore and you should not mix them. After removing the roller tappet, spring and washers you can see the gear to remove it. When pulling out the injector piston, note which way the slot on the piston is pointing. It can go in two ways but only works one way.
You need to time the gear to the rack by aligning the samll tick mark at the end of the oblong slot with the scribe line on the rack. It is very important to get this right or you may have a runaway engine when you start it. After
re-installing the pump you need to bleed the air from the injector lines by cracking the nuts at the injector end by
about one turn. Crank the engine until you see fuel leaking and then tighten the nuts. It should fire right up. I would have something ready to block the air intake just in case something goes wrong and you need to stall it.
OP
RADDAD50
Bronze Member
Thanks Lexgs for all your information. That was going to be the next thing I was going to do but as it turns out I just heard from my dealer, he called Kioti and told them the problem. They said they are aware of this problem and that there is excessive wear inside the pumps being caused by the new low sulfur diesel with is not giving enough lubrication to the pumps. They are recomending that a 1/2 quart of ATF be added to each tank of fuel. Long story short they are going to replace the pump and pay for the labor (not transporation to and from) with a new pump that should not be a problem with the low sulfur fuels. I'm not sure if California has diesel fuel different from the rest of US. I no this is going to raise alot of questions about your own equipment and the injector pumps, but this is what I was told by the head mechanic.
I feel that your dealer may have misunderstood the Tech Dept for KIOTI, all the times I have asked about additives I was pointed to name brand additives. I do know that truckers have been using old engine oil and trans fluid but it is only if you are concerned about price, and in that case it could be used. I rcommend a quality additive, I've been dealing with fuel systems for 15 years and I beleive that the dealer doesn't really understanding what was told to him, by KIOTI you may want to have him check that info again. Also you may want to question the reputation of the dealer as well as their standing with their brands! They could be on the out's with them and trying to drag KIOTI's name through the dirt as well. I suggest you contact KIOTI directly for a better understanding of what the dealer has told you.
1-877-GO-KIOTI
1-877-GO-KIOTI
Highbeam
Super Member
Don't add ATF to your diesel, ATF is not deisgned to be burned in an engine. There are other lubricity additives made for this purpose and I have grown quite fond of using 2-stroke oil in my diesel ford pickup with very noticable results.
The good news is that I have been running regular LSD off-road diesel that should still be good plus powerservice additive.
So to those in the know.... is it even possible that the lack of lubricity from the new ULSD could cause this type of damage? I have 767 hours on my OEM pump and don't want a failure.
The good news is that I have been running regular LSD off-road diesel that should still be good plus powerservice additive.
So to those in the know.... is it even possible that the lack of lubricity from the new ULSD could cause this type of damage? I have 767 hours on my OEM pump and don't want a failure.
