CK 30 ignition switch problem

[GregMVT]

I've started having problems with the ignition switch a couple of weeks ago. When I turn it to the on position no lights come on, I have to hold it a little towards the start position before the glow plug light, and the rest of them will come on. Once it goes off it starts fine but if I release it the tractor shuts down. I have to keep holding it a little so it'll stay running. I think something is worn in the switch, it's sealed so I can't check it out. Has anyone run accross this issue?

Greg

 

[KiotiDave]

Hi Greg,
You should contact your dealer to send you a new switch. The little bottlecap cover is meant to help this problem, so make sure you take out your key and cover the switch when not in use. Water will follow the key down into the ignition and corrode the contacts in the switch.
If you don't have the plastic cover on your switch, make sure he send you a new one with the switch.
KiotiDave

 

[mauistardog]

Had and have the same problem. Shoot wd40 in it and flip the key back and forth. Should start up. Keep it covered or get that plastic cap. I just keep and oily rag over the switch now.

aloha
joe

 

[sodamo]

Yep, had same issue since tractor was less than year old. Last time is got really bad, I removed it. Shot it full of WD40, worked the key, blew it out with air, did this several times, then reinstalled. It worked good another couple months. My plastic cover is long gone, but tractor is parked under roof and that doesn't seem to make it better. Was tempted to replace the switch, but figured it would soon enough happen to it also.

David

 

[Gittyup]

I wonder if Fluid Film would be better than wd40?

 

[mrutkaus]

No not Fluid Film, WD-40!!!!!!!!!!

I love FF but doesn't seem to me to do anything electrical. More ionic/iron/oxidation.

I'm on the antique radios group, and a good number of people there think WD-40 is just as good as expensive contact sprays.

Mike

 

[Sandlot]

I have just the opposite problem. My tractor won't shut off! I need to jiggle the switch to get it to shutdown. Normally it is just after it has set awhile, the first time I try to shut off the engine, nothing happens. Once it does shutdown, all is normal until the nexted prolonged period of non-use.

 

[Gittyup]

No not Fluid Film, WD-40!!!!!!!!!!

I love FF but doesn't seem to me to do anything electrical. More ionic/iron/oxidation.

I'm on the antique radios group, and a good number of people there think WD-40 is just as good as expensive contact sprays.

Mike

Well, the instructions say to use it (FF) on electrical contacts. And I don't see anything special about WD-40 from an electrical standpoint. They are both oils, just one is petroleum based and the other is organic. The FF might stay on longer, an thereby reduce corrosion, assuming corrosion is the cause of the failure.

Seems to be quite a few failures of this switch. I think it's an inferior product. My JD is 14+ years old and I've never had a problem with the switch on it. It would be interesting to know exactly what is going on in there.

 

[KBEAT]

I just started having exactly the same problem about 2 weeks ago. If I jiggle it a bit I can get the glow plug lights to come on but I am also having a problem with the tractor staying running after I let go of the key. I called my dealer on Monday and they have ordered a new switch assembly for me. I was going to start a thread to ask this when I saw your post .

 

[mrutkaus]

hey giddyup, no confrontation here, just that you've got a fairly rare respondent here offering you an opinion, 50 years of electrical experience and a fan of fluid film both!

mike

 

[Mastertech]

From a Locksmith's view point: WD40 is a fair solvent, and a good water displacer (ie. the WD desigination), but leaves little lubricity. After using it as a solvent blow it out as mentioned above and replace with a silicone, or teflon type such as Tri-Flo, etc. Unfortunatly the WD will thin the good lube! For years we used graphite in locks. Do not use white grease (lithium), 3 in 1 oil, etc. Better yet use a super solvent such as Brake Cleaner or Carb Cleaner which is evaporitive then lube it.

The lock clyinder in most electrical keyed switches has nothing to do with the electrical routing except to rotate the electrical contacts below them. The lube sprayed in the lock generally gets down into the contacts and removes corrusion etc.

 

[Gittyup]

hey giddyup, no confrontation here, just that you've got a fairly rare respondent here offering you an opinion, 50 years of electrical experience and a fan of fluid film both!

mike

No problem, Mike. I'm not trying to be confrontational either. So, why not fluid film? You said no, but never explained why. Have you tried it in such an application and had bad results? Will it collect too much dirt over time? It does say to use it on electrical contacts. Why not in this case?

Corrosion prevention is the long term answer (short of a better switch). It would seem to me that you'd want a coating that is more likely to stay in place, that recoats after each contact swipe.

I do like the suggestion to use a highly evaporative solvent to remove existing corrosion first. A little confused about the graphite. Is it being suggested to use it here? I know that graphite is a good lubricant for locks, but isn't it also conductive?

 

[GregMVT]

Thanks to everyone that responded. I tried the WD 40 yesterday morning and it worked GREAT. At some point before winter sets in I'll have to order a cover.

Greg

 

[TractorLegend]

My unofficial failure analysis of my failed ignition switch showed that likely the lube used at the factory on the contacts isnt capable of the temperature needed of it and it ends up deep frying the surrounding area

 

[mrutkaus]

I love Fluid Film on battery connections, battery trays, it works better than anything.

There is NO corrosion ever when terminals are coated with FF.

For moving contacts it's just that it doesn't do any cleaning and I'm not sure about burning with sparks.

Mike

 

[Gittyup]

I love Fluid Film on battery connections, battery trays, it works better than anything.

There is NO corrosion ever when terminals are coated with FF.

For moving contacts it's just that it doesn't do any cleaning and I'm not sure about burning with sparks.

Mike

As a precautionary exercise, I put a drop or two of WD-40 in my switch today. Wasn't quite brave enough to try FF on a perfectly good switch. I have never had any problems with it. But if I do, unless someone gives me a good reason not to, I plan to try the FF. I will, though, first double check flammability warnings that might be on the label. If it won't flame or short out, I still think it might be a better preventative solution due to it's coating and staying-power properties, maybe not so much so after the problem exists.

 

[TBDonnelly]

Over the past couple of weeks my tractor started acting up. First the starter would not catch first time around. Second time it would. Then the dash lights would not come on when turning the key. Today it was hard to get started. I remembered reading this thread and the 'clean ground' threads. I took both ends of the positive and negative wires off, the battery ends, the frame end & the starter ends. Wire brushed them all. While I had the wires off I sprayed brake cleaning fluid in the igntion switch, then blew compressed air through the switch, followed that up with some silicone lubricant. All appears to be working well. Nice strong lights on the dashboard and the tractor starts right up.

Many thanks to the TBN braintrust who contributed the answers. I knew exactly what direction to go in and had 'er done in short order.

Don

 

[sodamo]

Why else would we be here hehe

David