CK20 HST Sticky speed control pedal.

[TBDonnelly]

Had her apart this morning and found that spraying "Release all" on the pedal pivot at the trans case made a big difference. It's in the centre of the pic. Hope I don't have to do this too often.

I have not had to disassemble mine in quite a while. In fact I never removed the pedal off the shaft. Now that you have it worked loose spray the shaft on a regular basis, don't wait until it starts binding. I use the plastic spray extension tubes that come with the PBlaster or WD40 and go from the top side of the operator platform. Squirt the exposed side of the shaft between the HST pedal and tranny wall. Then I grab the HST pedal and work it in and out, taking advantage of the small amount of play there is, to move the penetrant up the shaft. So far this has worked well for me on a CK30.

Don

 

[KiotiDave]

Hi,
Once you free it up, pack some grease around the shaft where it goes thru the casing to keep crap and corrosion out. Lube often.
The correct fix is to install the same bushing on that shaft that the CK25/30/35 has on it's shaft. It is a very inexpensive part but labor intensive to replace. This is why the can of PB Blaster and a tube of grease works well also.
KiotiDave

 

[packrat001]

This is "related" to this forum... and might be helpful:
I had my CT230HST back in the woods trying to clear brush and undergrowth between the trees. I shut it down to move some brush piles by hand, got back on the tractor, and it would NOT start!
I checked that the PTO was OFF, and the other "pre-start" procedures plus the wiring to safety switches (like the seat, etc.), fuses.... THEN looked under the tractor and found a stick wedged in the travel pedal....
duh!
So... don't forget that one of the safety items on the CT230HST is that the travel pedal is in the "neutral" position before starting....

Hope this saves someone else the 20 minutes checking for a "no-start"!

 

[ws6togo]

I am having the issue with the hst pedal now too. Looking back over the past year I can recall the pedal getting harder to move. It just so happened that the pedal and my gel joystick all but seized during this past winter at the same time. I ended up replacing the joystick coupler/rods and during reinstalling found that I had moisture that ran down from the fel joystick cables and I had white chalky calcium down in the detent caps that stick out from the valve body. Working on that part a little here and there along with a 7 day cruise caused me to "forget how some of the parts went back together lol. Anyway the fel hydraulics work great (I know this when picking up a 5x6 bale and the ol ck30 lifted it higher/faster than it had in the past. I knew that I would have to address the pedal issue and was hoping to have the same success. So the tractor went very slow forward and had almost no reverse. I did double check hydro fluid and it was very clear(just changed less than 100 hrs ago). But I did forget that the fluid was overfilled by 1/8 - 1/4" over the full line and I hadn't drained any since the fluid change. I had called my Kioti dealer and he mentioned that the neutral dampner sometimes gets sticky, and that I could remove it to see if the pedal gets easier. It did get a little better but I had to step on Rev and use the other side to help get any speed in reverse. Last night I removed the foot pedal and linkage and lightly sanded off surfAce rust, and used some moly grease to lube up the parts. I also noticed that the metal plate that goes over the shaft had a hole at the bottom. Looked like a zert went there but had fallen out. I wasn't able to fit a zert back into that hole with what I had. (Had m8 and m10 sizes and it seems that an m9 would of fit). After getting it lubed up and back together, it still refuses to go in reverse(linkage doesn't even want to move the shaft going into the tranny). Can I force that linkage to go? What is the bolt head sticking out of the top of that shaft? I have read where similar models loose a nut on the linkage back by the hst filter. Thoughts?