CK20 Trailer

[ChasK]

Fellas:

Need some help here...What is the minimum size trailer I need to haul my CK20 and a 4 foot bushhog (and loader)?

Also...got the bad news today that the dealership I purchased from last July (about 45 minutes away) is going out of business....Outdoor Power Store in Indiana. It was a BIG operation w/ 3 locations in Central Indiana, so I'm really surprised. I'm crushed about losing my "local" dealer. I feel I will have the need to haul my CK to the next closest dealer (1.25 hours). They have a website (outdoorpowerstore.com)so it might be a good opportunity for those who are looking for implements/tractors as the guy told me they would be entirely liquidated within a month.

Let me know if you have thoughts on the trailer...

Thanks.

 

[gamble77]

no FEL i am assuming...i would just purchase a 16x6.5 dual axle, front brakes, NEW tires...just a standard trailer would fit the bill. Should be able to find one between $1200-1400.

 

[GerardC]

Wow, that's a bummer. As for the trailer, KiotiJohn just purchased one. I'm sure he'll chime in and give you the details. You can also send him a PM and ask for details.

 

[Noland]

Outdoor Power Store was my dealer too.
I had no idea that they were going out of business.

Oh well. I can do my own wrenching and I decided to make John DePratt my adopted dealer for parts purchases after buying a few items from him last year.

Outdoor Power sells trailers too, so maybe they have some sort of closeout sale going on?

 

[KAB]

I use a 16' car hauler (7000# gvw 14' flat - 2' dovetail w/liftup ramps). When connected with a 5' brush hog and loader it uses the entire lenght of the trailer.

If you are using anything smaller than a 3/4ton truck do yourself a favor and invest in a weight distributing hitch. Amazing how much better the trailer pulls and a lot safer.

I only have brakes on one axle but will probably add brakes to the second axle this year. Another good investment with a trailer is the brake controller. From my most recent research (purchase) there are 3 types of controllers - Time Delay, Inertia (uses a pendulum), and Proportional (uses an accelerometer).

All 3 have their place, but the Proportional one that I just bought I like the best (so far). They can all be bought with/without a digital readout. For the controller I would talk to a place that has experience with all three to make sure you get one that suits your needs.

Of course you have also been reading the thread on straps breaking. I went with chains originally because when I operated a wrecker and hauled forklifts for a guy he make sure that chains were used because a strap would not be safe.

Good luck

Kurt

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Let me know if you have thoughts on the trailer... )</font>
I had borrowed one of my brother's 6.5-16' before and wasn't satisfied with the length for carrying the mower, loader and extra implements.
A few days ago, I purchased a 7' X 18' so I could carry several things at the same time. The fit is great and the Suburban hardly knows it's back there. I bought a proportional type brake controller that supposedly keeps the brake working with the braking of the truck. It works good and doesn't cost a whole lot. I didn't want to take time for the installation so I paid to have it done.
The trailer is actually considered light equipment. Two 3500# axles, brakes on both. With a 1/2 ton I wouldn't go with just one brake. The trailer is made with Channel, not angle iron. $1975 + FL 7% tax. Brake controller and installation $225.
Also bought 4 US chains 3/8 Grade 70 chains and ratchet binders. Chains and binders about $250.00
The attachment is a picture of a similar trailer. Mine also has a spare tire mount about mid way on the rail in front. John

 

[DirtHauler]

I haul my CK20ST w/loaded R4's on an Iron Eagle 7x14 7000# trailer w/removable ramps, 5x2 steel tube frame, brakes on both axles, breakaway sytem, 2x6 pressure treated deck. The trailer weighs 1,590# and only needs 10% weight on tongue.
The CK20 fits and rides nicely on it, but with the 52" mower on I have to "fudge" it a little as you see in the pic, but still rides good. I pull all this with a Ram 1500 5.9 short bed and Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller. In the pic it looks like the rear of the truck is "squatting" but what isn't seen is the front is sitting on a rise, it rides nearly level. In 20/20 hind-sight, I should have got the 16' but only had a "guesstament" of what the total length of CK20 would need, so with all this said, the shortest you should go is a 16 if you have loader.

Norm

CK20ST; 52" mower; 48" box; 49" tiller and more to come

 

[KiotiOrange]

ChasK,

It has been my experience that buying something that will do the minimum job now turns out to be more expensive, and potentially unsafe, than trying to anticipate future needs and buy (provided you can afford it) to that. I have a small construction business (side work until I can shake the high tech career) and I have learned that investing in a bit more tool than you need right now, is money well spent.

I purchased a 2004 Ram 2500 w/Cummins and a tow capacity of 12K. So when I looked for a trailer to tow my LK3054 (still on order) I decided that my needs may change, so rather than go the continuous upgrade route, I purchased a 20' bumper pull 12K equipment trailer with two 6200# axles, brakes on all four wheels, break away kit, and a 12K rated drop jack.

Could I do with less? Most likely, but consider the following:
The LK3054 with FEL and BH weighs in around 5200#.
Load the tires and your at 6200-6800#.
Throw a PHD and/or a bush hog on the trailer.

Your loaded weight goes to 8000+ lbs in a hurry. Take the weight of the empty trailer (2200#), binder chain and binders (around 100#), add a spare tire, extra fluids and pieces for the tractor, and you reach over 10K in a hurry.

My truck will tow 12K, I have no difficulty driving that combination, and it is much easier to afford a top quality trailer for $3995 once than to buy one for $2000, buy another for $3000, and then end up where I am now, with two trailer sales to deal with in between.

I would rather pull a bit of extra weight that is within my capabilies than worry about if I may be creating an unsafe condition.

Just my $.02

Good luck with your decision and no matter what you decide, be safe.

KiotiOrange

 

[ChasK]

Thanks guys...I appreciate the comments about buying one large enough to grow into. Sound advice.

BTW...my CK20 FEL is running strong. I had my 50 hour service a couple weeks ago and no problems were reported. One question though...Since I don't have a manual, how do I check my hydraulic fluid level(s)?

chask

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Since I don't have a manual, how do I check my hydraulic fluid level(s)? )</font>
For CK20J (manual) Park the machine on a flat surface, lower the implement and shut off the engine. View the fluid level through the fluid level site gauge. It's okay if it's somewhere between the top and bottom of that round "disk" gauge.
For HST, Follow the same procedure, but on the left, next to the rear differential lock is a dip stick. The level should ride somewhere between the hash marks, or the two straight marks on the end of the dipstick. Hydraulic fluid is difficult to see on these sticks so be careful. DO NOT fill about those marks, and on the site glass, I'd stick to somewhere in the middle to just about middle. John