ck20hst PTO noise?

[glmf]

please forgive me if this is a well known thing but this is my first time using a 3pt pto driven implement. four foot rotary mower works fine, but when the pto is engaged and I push in the clutch, the pto system clicks like crazy til I move the pto lever to the disengaged. As soon I move the lever to disengage the noise stops, but the mower and shaft take some time to wind down. Everything seems to work well when in use, its just when I quit mowing and want to shut everything down that this occurs, hoping it something normal or simple anyway, thanks

 

[County Sawyer]

please forgive me if this is a well known thing but this is my first time using a 3pt pto driven implement. four foot rotary mower works fine, but when the pto is engaged and I push in the clutch, the pto system clicks like crazy til I move the pto lever to the disengaged. As soon I move the lever to disengage the noise stops, but the mower and shaft take some time to wind down. Everything seems to work well when in use, its just when I quit mowing and want to shut everything down that this occurs, hoping it something normal or simple anyway, thanks

That's the over ride clutch in the PTO which allows the implement to free wheel and wind down after you disengage the PTO. If it weren't there the implement could break the PTO shaft or some other internal gears, etc. Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[Dmace]

While using my rear mount snowblower, I only use the clutch to engage the rear PTO. To disengage it I just slide the lever to the off position. You don't need the clutch to disengage it.

 

[glmf]

excellent, thanks guys. Nice to have this resource and helpful members. Hope someday I can help someone out!

 

[Highbeam]

I do like DMace, clutch to engage the PTO but when I go to disengage the PTO I lower the throttle setting towards idle and then quickly bump the PTO lever to neutral. I find that backing off the RPMs unloads the gears and allows the PTO to disengage smoothly. Just like in a pickup truck if you shift out of gear while under load it is harder to pull the gears apart.

 

[kentrodngun]

Sometimes I wonder if the noise is the fork which engages the PTO gear. My machine made the noise too and one day the PTO stopped working. I opened up the PTO case and found the fork had rubbed against the gear and wore itself down to the point where it broke. Fortunately, the big piece remained in the bottom of the case. Boy, was that magnet full of metal flakes . I replaced the fork, pin, spring, gaskets, all the hyd. fluid & filter. No more noise and everything was fine again.

I also endorse cranking down the RPMs before disengaging and even go so far as to engage at slow speeds and then pick up the RPMs. A fork is a terrible thing to waste (and a PITA to replace). I hate downtime, don't you?

 

[williekioti]

Question for you guys on the PTO disengage, are you guys using gear or HST? Does it make a difference(using/not using clutch to disengage)? I definitely understand, and do run down the rpms prior to disengaging. So far I've only run a PHD on the PTO and having a foot hovering over the clutch is a necessity around here because the auger gets stuck often in the bony soils. There's not much overrun on a PHD, but have been using the clutch to disengage. Sounds like you guys think this is unneeded.

 

[kentrodngun]

I have a gear and, like you, always used the clutch to disengage. That is, until I read the postings here. It works fine disengaging without the clutch.

When I use my auger, I run it at extremely low RPMs and clear often. I also have a 36" pipe wrench at the ready when (not if) it gets stuck. It's a great little tool but oft times scary. I have a lot of respect for it and exercise a lot of caution using it.

 

[Dmace]

Mine is HST and usually I only lower the rpms to 2400 or so, but only because after disengaging the snowblower I lift it up and drive. Constantly lower and raising the rpms just wouldn't make sense.

 

[HODAK]

I always use the clutch to disengage. Sometimes I lower the RPM's and sometimes I don't. Never heard anything odd with a rear finish mower, flail or rotary mower. CK30HST

 

[RexB]

Thanks for this thread, I'm hooking up a PHD600 (that the dealer threw in on the deal) pretty soon. Now I know :~)

 

[glmf]

I always use the clutch to disengage. Sometimes I lower the RPM's and sometimes I don't. Never heard anything odd with a rear finish mower, flail or rotary mower. CK30HST

Believe me, there is no mistaking the sound I am talking about, its very noticeable,,,

 

[williekioti]

I have a gear and, like you, always used the clutch to disengage. That is, until I read the postings here. It works fine disengaging without the clutch.

When I use my auger, I run it at extremely low RPMs and clear often. I also have a 36" pipe wrench at the ready when (not if) it gets stuck. It's a great little tool but oft times scary. I have a lot of respect for it and exercise a lot of caution using it.

Yeah, I do the same. I run the PHD between 1500-1700 rpm usually and clear it often. But when mine gets stuck it's not the "small" rocks banging around in the hole, they're usually the size of an engine block, bigger or ledge rock. :O I try to be careful with it because it's not mine, borrowed and I don't want to "buy" it broken. They are pretty scary things to use for sure. Oh, and always have plenty of shear bolts in the toolbox. Don't have the pipe wrench(that big) but it's great suggestion, sounds like I need one. I buried the auger once and thought I was going to have to leave it planted for all eternity.

 

[Patches]

Hi guys;I'm new to the forum, but have read almost every thread reference Kioti's and found them interesting and informative.I've noticed most of the noise concerns have come from "ck" owners but my 3054xs TLB has a similar loud "rattling" when fully warmed and moving in reverse. I mentioned it to my dealership when the unit was there for some of it's "many"warranty visits, but he said he didn't hear it,which is possible if the unit was not fully warmed.The noise stops when the clutch is fully depressed, which indicates to me the noise is caused by something in the pto train,and while it has caused no problems???? it really irritates me

 

[kentrodngun]

Patches, I'm an LK3054 owner and if you read my earlier post in this thread it may give some insight into what the noise might be. Speaking for myself, finding the true neutral position for the PTO is very difficult.

 

[Patches]

Patches, I'm an LK3054 owner and if you read my earlier post in this thread it may give some insight into what the noise might be. Speaking for myself, finding the true neutral position for the PTO is very difficult.

I sincerely hope this is not the case in my unit as it is out of warranty and I"ve no desire to tear into it. I'll try a little searching with the selector to "maybe" find a more neutral position. I seldom use the pto;only when using my 3pt-pto chipper, and it only makes the noise when moving in reverse;but does that wheather the pto is in use or not and with the bh on the machine. Thanks for the heads-up, and I had read yor earlier post.

 

[malk315]

I can confirm that my mid-pto on my CK-20 HST does the same thing you guys are experiencing regarding the "clicking". I always bring the RPMS down to like 1500 or so and typically have my foot ready to clutch as it's ramping down the RPMS so it's smooth and not putting any load on the engine (i.e. I clutch just before the engine will want to drive the output shaft again). My thinking is that it's just easier on everything if I clutch at the lower RPMs. I do get the clicking noise described and just figured it was the overrun protection.

The last time I cut, I experimented and like the other guys mention, if I just pull the RPMs down in preparation for disengaging the mid pto and instead of clutching just pull the lever back, there's no click and the deck spins down very smoothly. On another test I pulled the RPMs down, clutched for a moment to get the ticking going, and then pulled the lever back while keeping the clutch in and the ticking stopped and the deck continued to spin down smoother and for a longer period of time. So the clicking certainly is inducing some drag on spin down. The lever is very easy to disengage -- in fact when I clutch to engage it, sometimes I get resistance from the lever and let the clutch out for a moment and re-clutch thinking it will allow an easier mesh. Usually after a couple tries it goes in nice. I then let the clutch out nice and slow to baby it into motion being ready to re-clutch if for some odd reason a blade were to hit something or the shaft isn't right. I've had no issues and very much like my mowing setup. I'm pretty fussy about my lawn (looks like a golf course) and my deck does a great job.