CK30 FEL/BH

[cabin kioti]

I finally broke down and traded in my 1953 WD45 for a CK30fel/bh. I don't know why I suffered for 12 years. I am happy with this new CK30, the HST,loader/and backhoe,all work fine. I have 120 hours on this equipment and have not had any problems. I changed all the filters and oils at 50 hours,and the engine oil and filter again at 100 hours with Shell Rotella 5w40 synthetic for the winter. If anyone has any advise on maintenance and upkeep I would be intrested .Thanks for any help or advise.

 

[VictorW]

I had used a Ford 8N for 10 years before getting my CK30hst with fl and bh. I got it for a good price and after rebuilding the engine and some other small things, it has served me well. After getting the CK, I started to wonder who was working harder; me or the Ford.

I am using the same engine oil as you after getting the recommendation from DK35vince. His weather is similar to ours and I think you'll find winter starting easy. I use it year round and don't change weights for summer.

I haven't had any problems with mine at 150 hours. As far as maintenance, nothing special. I keep everything greased well, do the routine checks, and service at recommended intervals. I think it's a pretty easy to maintain tractor.

Have fun this winter. Maybe we will get some snow sometime.

 

[cabin kioti]

No hard feelings buT I like the weather gust fine

 

[HODAK]

No hard feelings buT I like the weather gust fine

Ummm....... me too. I can hear them making snow on the ski slopes. If mother nature doesn't make any, that's OK. For me, brown is a nice color outside...

 

[Oleozz]

It doesn't make a lot of sense to me to change the oil at 100 hours when its been changed at 50 hrs. I think my manual says just the oil at 100 and not the filter. I changed the oil in the spring and fall in all the other tractors that I've owned and they worked just fine. A farmer friend has a new McCormick 110 hp 4wd tractor and I believe he said that his first oil change was supposed to be at 200 hours and the first hydraulic oil change at 400 hours. He did nothing to his tractor at 50 hours, no service was called for. Yes, I know it's not a compact but it gets a lot harder use than my 45.

 

[dfkrug]

Oleozz:

If you saw the crap that came out of your Kioti when you first
change your hyd fluid at 50 hr, you will be glad you did! There
was one metal chip in my oil that was as big as my fingernail.
Others were much smaller, but substantial.

When I rebulid an engine, I like to do the first oil change at 1 to
5 hrs. Makes for better longevity. Engine oil and oil filters are cheap.
7-8 gal of tractor-hyd fluid is not. I will do my next CK30 hyd oil
and filters change at 250h.

 

[Oleozz]

I have followed the maintenance schedule and changed the hydraulic fluid and filter at 50 hrs. My question was why the engine oil change at 50 and then 100 hrs without a filter change? I do remember seeing some filings in the motor oil at 50 but I don't believe there was hardly anything in the used hydraulic oil.
In my ZTR Kawasaki engine they recommend the first oil change after 5 hours, just like you say you are doing with your rebuilt engines.

 

[IslandTractor]

I have followed the maintenance schedule and changed the hydraulic fluid and filter at 50 hrs. My question was why the engine oil change at 50 and then 100 hrs without a filter change? I do remember seeing some filings in the motor oil at 50 but I don't believe there was hardly anything in the used hydraulic oil.

There is some science but far more religion involved in determining oil change regimens. It is hard to imagine there is solid data that backs up so many differing opinions/recommendations. As usual in such situations the truth probably is somewhere in the middle and may vary according to the specific engine, oil, filter, and use pattern.

 

[dfkrug]

There are some inconsistencies on change intervals in what Kioti
recommends. Do a search for a previous (long) thread on this issue.
They seem to "forget" in the user's manual that AFTER the initial
change, you are starting with a clean slate and should use the regular
intervals for engine and hyd.

IMO, engine oil filters are cheap so they should always be changed
with the oil. It has always bothered me that new vehicles often have
eng oil chg intervals of 7500 mi or more. I can't do it. I go for
about 3500 mi after the initial change.

BTW, my 81 Kawasaki 750 m/c with over 50K mi on it still runs fine with
25 y of 3000 mi oil changes. Bought new and still on original non-rebuilt
engine.

 

[TractorLegend]

There are some inconsistencies on change intervals in what Kioti recommends.
It has always bothered me that new vehicles often have
eng oil chg intervals of 7500 mi or more. I can't do it. I go for about 3500 mi after the initial change.
engine.

I agree...and here's why:
there are certain "sledge motors" that people didn't find out they had until after the fact they were indeed crudding up the engine by adhering to the blessed manufacturers data.
Heres some that come to mind:
97-02 Toyota 4 cylinders and V-6's (can you say Sienna van?)
VW 1.8 litre turbo engines
Some Saabs from those years
Chrysler 2.7 litre anything.
All those manufacturers ate crow over those sledge motors,
and how do you know if you have a potential "sledge maker" till its too late and your motors baked?
I vote for 3K max for this very reason.

 

[coasterez]

Oil changes are the cheapest form of insurance.

 

[dcondo]

Hey Cabin-K. I know someone just like you. He was an A-C man too. I think he has a real thing for orange paint. I'm sure that explains the CK-30. Anyway, he had the old WD-45, fixed it up, painted it, put on a chrome stack, etc. In his younger days he was a real go-getter; fixed and used a lot of older equipment (much to his wife's amusement sometimes). As he got older and more worldly, he transformed to more of a gentleman farmer than a sod-busting pioneer. That's when he bid farewell to his trusty WD and picked up the Kioti. Your story anything like that???

 

[Tractor Rep]

After years of working in the equipment industry and being a hot rod lover, I'm also on board with the 3 to 3.5 K mile or 100 hour program, My 77 chev, crew dually one ton has 682K plus almost 683K miles on her,,, and during an off the line foot race with a new mustang I finally popped something loose and have a very slight bottom end noise... keep in mind, this is an OLD one ton truck with a flat bed so she also happened to have 2 tons of hay on board. Which for the engine/tranny combo I run is not a big deal... and yes, it was dumb as heck, but I put my money where my mouth was and whipped the crap out of the mustang,,, (thank GOD the guy had no idea how to shift that new car or he wouldn't beat me royally) But it was worth it and I read my apponant right.... anyhow, my point is, MAINTENANCE< MAINTENANCE< MAINTENANCE!!! Maintenance is cheap, not many rigs can say they will see that many miles with out maintenance. Until the day I did that, this truck had never ever broke down on me or ever once left me questioning it's reliability. I've always been able to just hop in and go at the drop of a hat. And I don't know if there is a feeling so frustrating as getting in your vehicle or tractor and turning the key and not having it run right,, or die right in the middle of doing something, especially when you really need it.

House tractors like my shibaura 2643 should be done once a year or every 250,,,, I really don't use it much and maybe put 19 hours a year on her lately,,,, but tractors attract moisture. You have to get rid of it,,,,, and leaving old filters in just contaminates the new fluid.

Our big hay tractors,,, (I do all the maintenance for commercial hay growers, and every one has their own thing, But the one outfit that farms some of the roughest ground, and has the best reliabilty factors is the one that farms 800 acres here locally,

I change out his filters every 100 hours,, or about 5 to 12 times a summer (depending on the unit). His rigs work in heavy dust and dirt and get fuel that comes in from mobile and gravity feed shop tanks from the various locations he has hay feilds.

Plus, we never know what kind of stuff can be in the bottom of the tanks on the delivery trucks,,, So we don't just do oil and air,,,, fuel is also SUPER important and often the most neglected. When you figure the cost of a fuel pump or worn/clogged injectors, let me tell ya, fuel filters are dirt cheap.

Back when I had a commercial tractor repair shop, the two most common things we saw was neglect and overuse/ over loading on compacts causing 95% of all the failures. None of which end up cheap.

Just my two bits.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of the cure.

Paula

 

[Tractor Rep]

By the way, great choice on the CK 30, especially if you got that manual tranny model. A brute tough little tractor! I used to sell and rent them out and they always survived the beatings rentors & first time tractor owners gave them.

If you need filters let me know, $35 (includes shipping in Cont'l USA) for hydro, oil and fuel filter packages, while I have them. These are Kioti OEM's not after market. I have a shed full of tractor stuff I need to part with.