ck30 no lights or ignition after replacing battery

[MWB1564]

Hi guys. Well I went out yesterday to start the tractor for the first time this year and it started to crank just fine but the battery was almost dead which I expected. It did turn over a few times so there was definitely power getting to the ignition. I took the battery out and charged it and replaced the positive terminal since it had a little crack in it. Now I have nothing. No lights and not even a click when turning the ignition switch. There is 12 volts on the battery per the volt meter and good connections on the terminals. I checked all the fuses under the dash and they're all good. I will admit to one stupid mistake I made. In my haste to put the battery in I momentarily touched the the terminals to the wrong posts for a split second. Did I blow something? A relay maybe or another fuse I'm not aware of? Thanks for your help.

 

[hillwood]

Test all the fuses to start and pray that's all it is.
Crossing the cables could have done module and electronics damage.
I hope not!

 

[MWB1564]

Test all the fuses to start and pray that's all it is.
Crossing the cables could have done module and electronics damage.
I hope not!

Are you talking about just the row of fuses under the dash that do to lights, etc.?

 

[RandyT]

There should be a main fuse that may be taped over close to the starter. Look at the wiring harness going to the starter, It is like a 30 amp fuse.

 

[jabelding]

Probably your neg battery cable where it attaches to the frame remove it and clean check the cable it is usually corroded pretty bad in that area and will loose connection.

 

[hillwood]

Find out where all the fuses are and test for power at them. They should have power on both sides. Put a test light on the battery ground and start checking. Then put test light on battery positive and test grounds.

 

[ritcheyvs]

Do the main fuse check per Randy's advice. There is a good chance the momentary reverse connection blew the main fuse because the alternator rectifier will conduct reverse current, a very high reverse current that would blow that fuse. If this turns out to be the case, get the alternator checked to be sure you didn't also blow a diode in the rectifier.

Another, less likely, possibility is a bad battery cable. Some of these cables have a history of hidden corrosion (inside the insulation) and flexing the cable sometimes breaks it or fixes it. The quick check for this is to bypass the stock battery cable using a jumper cable.

 

[MWB1564]

There should be a main fuse that may be taped over close to the starter. Look at the wiring harness going to the starter, It is like a 30 amp fuse.

OK thanks, I'll look for that first. Hopefully thats all it is.

 

[rd_macgregor]

Once you've checked that the battery itself is fully charged (as you've done), next you could check between the positive terminal and a ground point. If no current, then there is likely a problem with the neg (ground) wire or clamp (check clamp connection with neg voltmeter probe on the clamp and cable integrity with probe on the grounding end (frame?) of the cable).. Otherwise, the problem is on the "live" side (clamp, cable, breaker/fuse, etc.)...you'd need to track down the right component from there, though I'd start with the main, 30a fuse mentioned above.
Good luck, I HATE electrical issues with my vehicles.

 

[MWB1564]

Hi guys. Well I got sidetracked with a health issue but I got back on this today and to my relief the main fuse was blown. Whew! Thanks, to all who replied. I've got one more thing to ask though. Where do you buy these fuses at? Its a 60 amp 32v fuse.