CK30 stalled while mowing and now won't start. Advice, please!

[DOCatRU]

Thanks again, guys.

1 - Fortunately, I was able to cancel the eBay order for the starter. Whew!

2 - I did just try bypassing the clutch safety switch with no positive effect. Bummer. Just to make certain that am doing this correctly: I disconnected the two male leads from the clutch safety switch and inserted a piece of 12 ga. solid copper wire into the two female connectors. I think I am getting good contact.

No start! Bummer!

A previous response asked if I was getting 12v at the spade terminal on the solenoid. I just pulled the connector off of the spade terminal and inserted one multi meter probe into the connector. I put the other probe on the big starter screw that is connected to the red (+) wire and it showed .01v. I get 12.8v at the battery. The ignition key was on. Does it need to be in the start position?

More information. Does this provide a better clue?

 

[LouNY]

Yes, it would need to be in the start position,
and measuring voltage from the lead to ground.

Also you should have battery voltage on the lead from the switch to the clutch switch measuring to ground,,
with voltage there and reconnected to your clutch safety switch you should be able to measure battery voltage leaving the clutch switch, again to ground,
all of these are in the start position on the switch.

 

[DOCatRU]

OK folks, here is the latest piece in the puzzle.

I connected the red probe of the multi meter to the spade connector. Placed the black probe on a good ground. With the ignition switch turned to start I got just 0.03 volts at the spade connector. SO....something in that line is FUBAR.

According to the wiring diagram, that wire goes directly to the relay.

What say ye?

 

[ritcheyvs]

Lets review. Did you connect the non-ground meter probe to the female connector on the wire or the male spade lug? It should have been connected to the wire which should read 12v when you turn the key to start and zero otherwise. If the wire still connected to the spade lug on the solenoid, that's OK too.

 

[LouNY]

When you pull your start relay can you get a meter lead into the relay base contacts?
If so one contact should always have battery power,
another one should get battery power when the switch is turned to start.
That leaves 3 contacts;
using the ohm scale,
one should read zero to ground, (ground for the relay coil)
one should read zero to the connector of the small wire to the solenoid, (should be power to the solenoid)
and one should read open or infinity (not used)

Not knowing how familiar you are with multimeters, if you use the ohm scale on the contacts with power,
if your meter has a fuse it will get blown, if not most meters will decide to quit working for you :confused2:
good luck, you are getting close

 

[DOCatRU]

Hi guys....latest tests have shown progress.

I removed the clutch safety switch. cleaned the button at the top (there was gunk there). WD40 and hand cycled the switch. REinstalled.

I unplugged and replugged all of the relays.

I pulled the alternator fuse (because it's in the same circuit). Good fuse .... reinstalled.

Now checked the voltage at the starter solenoid spade terminal and voila! I now have 12.5v at the spade terminal.

Reconnect spade terminal and tractor starts from the ignition switch!

However, the battery light on the dash does not come on when the key is turned. THis can mean a bad fuse or the alternator is kaput.

I checked the fuse...still good. Started the tractor, removed the positive (red) terminal from the battery and tested voltage with the multi meter...14.5v coming off the alternator. Perhaps the light bulb in the dash blew out?

At least the tractor now runs, the alternator is apparently producing juice....so I am good to go for a while.

Thanks for everything....

Any final thoughts from your collective wisdom?

David

 

[Ranchofla]

Hi guys....latest tests have shown progress.

At least the tractor now runs, the alternator is apparently producing juice....so I am good to go for a while.

Thanks for everything....

David

David, glad you worked it through and resolved the issue!

Rancho
CK20

 

[LouNY]

Run her and enjoy

Lou

 

[woolyAcres]

Way to go David!

 

[ritcheyvs]

Good job but you may not be "out of the woods". The fix is not conclusive: maybe dirty safety switch (but why didn't the jumper work?) maybe corroded/dirty relay pins or connector, maybe pitted relay contacts that got cleaner by multiple cycling, maybe dirty/corroded key switch connector, maybe dirty key switch, maybe broken wire that was "fixed" by moving it. So the problem could come back. Maybe you should keep a jumper wire (for starter) in the tool box in case you get stranded again away from home.

By the way, the alternator fuse only powers the regulator. It's probably a bad bulb or possibly the inline diode burned out. You want to be sure the battery is actually charging. Measure the battery voltage (at posts) with the engine stopped and again running. The battery voltage should be higher with the engine running, especially if it hasn't run for 12 hours or so and the surface charge has bled off.

Also, you do NOT ever want to disconnect the battery with the engine running. It can blow the rectifier in the alternator. This doesn't always happen but sometimes it does. Kioti alternators are surprisingly expensive.