CK30 suddenly died-won't start

justman777 · May 16, 2020

Ok. With two pins, that's a bit easier. One is likely power and the other is likely ground. It's just an electromagnet that retracts the pin to allow fuel in, so which way the electrons flow isn't likely to matter. However, I wouldn't worry about jumping the solenoid until you've figured out what's causing you to not have power through your existing harness.

There are a few things that could cause no power to the fuel solenoid...at least that I'm aware of.

- Safety mechanism --- like a seat switch or PTO engagement switch where you haven't met the safety parameters. The seat switch is simple...your rear has to be in the seat. If the seat switch wire has come loose, the seat switch won't ever engage and it'll shut the engine down pretty quick. Same for the PTO, brake, or whatever other safety switch is integrated.

- Relay - You've already tested these, so this doesn't seem to be the issue

- Fuse - Hope you've tested all these already. There may be an in-line fuse somewhere in the mix.

- Ignition - I think a faulty ignition switch could also cause this.

- Faulty hidden kill switch - Not very common, but possible. Did you buy the tractor used?

I think your best bet is to follow your wiring from the stop solenoid back to the last place where power is present. Whatever device, fuse, relay, switch or whatever has power going to it but no power beyond is your most likely culprit. I suspect there's nothing wrong with the stop solenoid itself.

YLee Kioti · May 16, 2020

Relay can click sat but the contacts that close the power connection can be bad.
Can you apply power to the relay then use the multimeter to check for continuity at the contacts?

MWB1564 · May 16, 2020

justman777 said:
Ok. With two pins, that's a bit easier. One is likely power and the other is likely ground. It's just an electromagnet that retracts the pin to allow fuel in, so which way the electrons flow isn't likely to matter. However, I wouldn't worry about jumping the solenoid until you've figured out what's causing you to not have power through your existing harness.

There are a few things that could cause no power to the fuel solenoid...at least that I'm aware of.

- Safety mechanism --- like a seat switch or PTO engagement switch where you haven't met the safety parameters. The seat switch is simple...your rear has to be in the seat. If the seat switch wire has come loose, the seat switch won't ever engage and it'll shut the engine down pretty quick. Same for the PTO, brake, or whatever other safety switch is integrated.

- Relay - You've already tested these, so this doesn't seem to be the issue

- Fuse - Hope you've tested all these already. There may be an in-line fuse somewhere in the mix.

- Ignition - I think a faulty ignition switch could also cause this.

- Faulty hidden kill switch - Not very common, but possible. Did you buy the tractor used?

I think your best bet is to follow your wiring from the stop solenoid back to the last place where power is present. Whatever device, fuse, relay, switch or whatever has power going to it but no power beyond is your most likely culprit. I suspect there's nothing wrong with the stop solenoid itself.

At this point I just don't see how it could be any of those. If there is a hidden fuse I wouldn't know where to look. The ignition switch has to be working or else it wouldn't be making the relay click when I turn it on. I went ahead and removed the fuel solenoid and applied 12v to one of the terminals and the plunger didn't just retract,it vibrated in and out real fast. Is there supposed to be a full 12 volts going to that?

justman777 · May 16, 2020

I'm not sure on the voltage specs to the stop solenoid. It's just an electromagnet, so it shouldn't take all that much current to retract and stay. It certainly shouldn't move in and out really fast.

I still think your best bet is to follow your wiring back from your stop solenoid and determine where the power is stopping. The stop solenoid should retract when the key is turned to the run position. If it's not getting power, then something further upstream is preventing it from getting there.

MWB1564 · May 17, 2020

justman777 said:
I'm not sure on the voltage specs to the stop solenoid. It's just an electromagnet, so it shouldn't take all that much current to retract and stay. It certainly shouldn't move in and out really fast.

I still think your best bet is to follow your wiring back from your stop solenoid and determine where the power is stopping. The stop solenoid should retract when the key is turned to the run position. If it's not getting power, then something further upstream is preventing it from getting there.

I've done that though. At least I think I have. The relay is the first thing upstream from the fuel solenoid connector, right? Well, I'm getting 12v going to the plug that the relay plugs into. Then I've confirmed that the relay itself is working. The only thing left it seems is a bad wire and there is nothing to indicate any wear or chafing of a wire anywhere that a wire is exposed. Do you happen to have a wiring diagram that shows the whole ignition, battery, relay, solenoid, etc. sequence and layout?

UPDATE: OK, I think I'm on to something here. I have found yet another 70amp relay identical to the other two but this one is down at the bottom of the fire wall. There are 4 wires going to this relay. Two of those wires are Red/blue and Red/white......the same as go to the fuel solenoid. I confirmed the relay works and also that there is no power going TO the relay. I followed the wiring harness down below the right floorboard where there is a large connector. The same kind of connector where I previously found a pin had corroded and prevented my headlights from working. I suspect I may find the same issue here but I had to let it go for now because I'm an old guy and having nerve pain in my hands. I'm going to try to get to it again in a little while.

MWB1564 · May 17, 2020

MWB1564 said:
I've done that though. At least I think I have. The relay is the first thing upstream from the fuel solenoid connector, right? Well, I'm getting 12v going to the plug that the relay plugs into. Then I've confirmed that the relay itself is working. The only thing left it seems is a bad wire and there is nothing to indicate any wear or chafing of a wire anywhere that a wire is exposed. Do you happen to have a wiring diagram that shows the whole ignition, battery, relay, solenoid, etc. sequence and layout?

UPDATE: OK, I think I'm on to something here. I have found yet another 70amp relay identical to the other two but this one is down at the bottom of the fire wall. There are 4 wires going to this relay. Two of those wires are Red/blue and Red/white......the same as go to the fuel solenoid. I confirmed the relay works and also that there is no power going TO the relay. I followed the wiring harness down below the right floorboard where there is a large connector. The same kind of connector where I previously found a pin had corroded and prevented my headlights from working. I suspect I may find the same issue here but I had to let it go for now because I'm an old guy and having nerve pain in my hands. I'm going to try to get to it again in a little while.

Justman and everyone else.....thank you for your help. You were all correct, and while I did listen and follow the advice I should have listened harder. I swear I looked at those fuses hard, cleaned them up and reinstalled every one. What I didn't see with my poor eyesight was some corrosion down deep in the fuse recepticle for the #1 fuse, which of course is the one that goes to the fuel solenoid. I've had this tractor 11 years and never did a fuse problem get by me like that. I only found the problem by accident as I had reinstalled the solenoid and inadvertently hit the fuse recepticle with my foot and heard the solenoid click. Oh well, live and learn I guess. Thanks again.