albmn10
Gold Member
Tim, i dont have any good pics showing the color difference between Woods and Kioti orange. I have one small pic . I need to take some new ones.. Matt
CK30HST newbie reality check
- Thread starter Tim M
- Start date
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Gittyup
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2007
- Messages
- 3,145
- Location
- Mid Atlantic
- Tractor
- Kioti CK25 Shuttle Shift, loaded tires, JD X739
I'd like to see that shovel in action on the front of that CK30.
I'll see if I can the video camera fired up this weekend.
Here is a still shot of me moving a huge viburnum with a rented track loader:
http://www.superxtune.com/images/ALTA6.JPG
Tucked in its new home...
http://www.superxtune.com/images/ALTA7.JPG
I ended up going with the CK30 TLB mainly because the backhoe allows me to get to stuff the track loader could not. And of course the $7-8k track replacement was not very attractive. I was also seriously considering a used Kubota L35... but used is used and I could not find one near to look at.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/buying-pricing-comparisons/112410-tractor-bobcat.html
BTW my initial impressions are the CK30 with loaded tires seems very stable. It is a little less maneuverable than a small track loader but it does not tear everything up when you turn and as I alluded to above the backhoe just has so much more finesse.
Here is a still shot of me moving a huge viburnum with a rented track loader:
http://www.superxtune.com/images/ALTA6.JPG
Tucked in its new home...
http://www.superxtune.com/images/ALTA7.JPG
I ended up going with the CK30 TLB mainly because the backhoe allows me to get to stuff the track loader could not. And of course the $7-8k track replacement was not very attractive. I was also seriously considering a used Kubota L35... but used is used and I could not find one near to look at.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/buying-pricing-comparisons/112410-tractor-bobcat.html
BTW my initial impressions are the CK30 with loaded tires seems very stable. It is a little less maneuverable than a small track loader but it does not tear everything up when you turn and as I alluded to above the backhoe just has so much more finesse.
450EXC
Gold Member
Nice tree moving work there Tim. I want to move a bunch of spruce trees but was always thinking tree spade but they were too much money.
How well does that shovel work ? That Viburnum looks about 15 -20' tall, nice.
Whats a ripper? A big fang in place of the bucket ?
Videos are pretty slow on my dial-up, got any pics ?
Thanks for any info.
How well does that shovel work ? That Viburnum looks about 15 -20' tall, nice.
Whats a ripper? A big fang in place of the bucket ?
Videos are pretty slow on my dial-up, got any pics ?
Thanks for any info.
IslandTractor
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Messages
- 15,802
- Location
- Prudence Island, RI
- Tractor
- 2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH
Regarding your initial question on stalling the tractor while digging up a bush....I wouldn't worry about it. I stall my DK40se once in a while too doing the same thing with a grapple. It also used to happen with my CK20. I just restart and keep going. You can pretty easily bog/stall the engine trying to dig or bulldoze with the loader by tackling something that is just a bit too much to handle and not backing off quickly enough when the engine starts to bog. Unless you do it constantly it really won't cause any problem.
I must disagree with Rick Wallace on his post however, I would use low range and 2600rpm rather than medium range. I don't see any advantage to medium range when digging with FEL or a tree scoop attachment like you have. I suppose if you were digging a very shallow root ball and using mostly the loader itself to dig then medium range would be appropriate but if you are stalling the tractor it sounds like you are digging deeper and using the forward motion of the tractor as digging force. In that situation the low range makes more sense to me. When I grapple medium size tree roots I find it more effective to use a combination of tractor movement and FEL to unroot the buggers. I suspect you'll find the same with the tree scoop.
I must disagree with Rick Wallace on his post however, I would use low range and 2600rpm rather than medium range. I don't see any advantage to medium range when digging with FEL or a tree scoop attachment like you have. I suppose if you were digging a very shallow root ball and using mostly the loader itself to dig then medium range would be appropriate but if you are stalling the tractor it sounds like you are digging deeper and using the forward motion of the tractor as digging force. In that situation the low range makes more sense to me. When I grapple medium size tree roots I find it more effective to use a combination of tractor movement and FEL to unroot the buggers. I suspect you'll find the same with the tree scoop.
Last edited:
450EXC,
Yes, a ripper is a big fang that hooks on a backhoe in place of the bucket.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/112103-backhoe-ripper-tooth-again.html
The tree shovel works great on a track loader if you can get access to all sides of the tree/shrub you want to move. Just work your way around the tree like one spade of a tree spade at a time(cutting the roots). Then flatten the angle a bit and get underneath (cutting tap root(s) if any) and lift it up. In the case of taller items like the viburnum you may have to tie it off so it won't tip over as you transport depending on the terrain you're moving it across. One quick or uneven turn is all it takes. I ere on the cautious side and strap the root ball to the shovel and also secure further up with a rope. This is easier with a track loader/bobcat then a tractor due to the proximity and height of the cab. I am thinking of welding on some brackets that can hold a couple of vertical pieces of pipe (removable) to tie off to. You want to keep that root ball on at all costs. Once the root ball is off it is hard to get back on since you need to push against something. Early on I yanked out a huge cleyera out and it got away from me. I ended up just dragging it to where I wanted it... it seems to be doing ok, certainly more a testament to it hardiness than my tree shovel adeptness.
I ended up getting a tractor with backhoe due to versatility and maintenance costs. Many thanks to the people on this forum for valuable insights. I've got a lot of tight spots (some on a slope) that I cannot get access to with the tree shovel on all sides... in comes the backhoe with a ripper. I carve around the root ball and then if need be put the bucket back on and level/clear an approach for the tractor. So far I am very pleased with the TLB combo.
Yes, a ripper is a big fang that hooks on a backhoe in place of the bucket.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/112103-backhoe-ripper-tooth-again.html
The tree shovel works great on a track loader if you can get access to all sides of the tree/shrub you want to move. Just work your way around the tree like one spade of a tree spade at a time(cutting the roots). Then flatten the angle a bit and get underneath (cutting tap root(s) if any) and lift it up. In the case of taller items like the viburnum you may have to tie it off so it won't tip over as you transport depending on the terrain you're moving it across. One quick or uneven turn is all it takes. I ere on the cautious side and strap the root ball to the shovel and also secure further up with a rope. This is easier with a track loader/bobcat then a tractor due to the proximity and height of the cab. I am thinking of welding on some brackets that can hold a couple of vertical pieces of pipe (removable) to tie off to. You want to keep that root ball on at all costs. Once the root ball is off it is hard to get back on since you need to push against something. Early on I yanked out a huge cleyera out and it got away from me. I ended up just dragging it to where I wanted it... it seems to be doing ok, certainly more a testament to it hardiness than my tree shovel adeptness.
I ended up getting a tractor with backhoe due to versatility and maintenance costs. Many thanks to the people on this forum for valuable insights. I've got a lot of tight spots (some on a slope) that I cannot get access to with the tree shovel on all sides... in comes the backhoe with a ripper. I carve around the root ball and then if need be put the bucket back on and level/clear an approach for the tractor. So far I am very pleased with the TLB combo.
Ok, did a bunch of plant moving today.
Using low range, just slightly pushing on the pedal. Tractor just seemed to sit there. No spinning wheels and no stalling. Medium range did not fare any better.
Just as before I was able to "wiggle" the tree shovel a bit then back up and make a short run at it. This in combination with the backhoe allowed me to move everything I wanted to move. But I was hoping to be able to move some bigger plants and I am not sure I will be able to.
I did not try to remove the backhoe to see if it did any better. I will try this soon.
So the big question is: would going to a CK35 make much of a difference here?
Thanks.
Using low range, just slightly pushing on the pedal. Tractor just seemed to sit there. No spinning wheels and no stalling. Medium range did not fare any better.
Just as before I was able to "wiggle" the tree shovel a bit then back up and make a short run at it. This in combination with the backhoe allowed me to move everything I wanted to move. But I was hoping to be able to move some bigger plants and I am not sure I will be able to.
I did not try to remove the backhoe to see if it did any better. I will try this soon.
So the big question is: would going to a CK35 make much of a difference here?
Thanks.
450EXC
Gold Member
You should have been able to spin the tires, sounds like a drive problem maybe. Check the HST fluid level, there is a dipstick on the back down low and a fill tube up high. Might be hard to get to with the hoe on but doable.
I guess its possible you are getting really good traction and not spinning ?
Maybe there is an art to this tree shovel, could try practicing on some open dirt, no tree, shallow bites then more to get the hang of it ?
As far as the big question - Maybe a DK 40 or 45. But we all need more power at times. Hopefully it is a drive problem or just a matter of more practice to get the CK30 to work. I would think the FEL lift apacity would be the limiting factor in this project.
Take a quick look at your manual for the HST dipstick and let us know.
Good luck
I guess its possible you are getting really good traction and not spinning ?
Maybe there is an art to this tree shovel, could try practicing on some open dirt, no tree, shallow bites then more to get the hang of it ?
As far as the big question - Maybe a DK 40 or 45. But we all need more power at times. Hopefully it is a drive problem or just a matter of more practice to get the CK30 to work. I would think the FEL lift apacity would be the limiting factor in this project.
Take a quick look at your manual for the HST dipstick and let us know.
Good luck
ChuckinNH
Elite Member, R.I.P.
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2003
- Messages
- 3,081
- Location
- NH
- Tractor
- (B2620, had BX22) Simplicity Legacy w/48" mmm
It seems like you should be able to (A) lug the engine down, even to a stall, or (B) spin the tires. If neither of these things are happening, and you find, or are told the drive system is fine, I would look at a broader spectrum of the rainbow than that shade of orange. I have only a few hundred hours of experience with a deisel mfwd tractor, but one of those two things always happened with mine.
Transmission fluid level is fine.
What sort of drive problems are possible? The machine has 10 hours on it.
I only have 3.3 acres so a DK40 or bigger is going to be hard to justify. Plus maneuverability/garage space is important. Initially I almost went with a CK20.
Operating the tree shovel is best done with a combination of curl/lift of the FEL and inertia/drive power of the tractor.
Both are a little less than I expected.
Thanks.
What sort of drive problems are possible? The machine has 10 hours on it.
I only have 3.3 acres so a DK40 or bigger is going to be hard to justify. Plus maneuverability/garage space is important. Initially I almost went with a CK20.
Operating the tree shovel is best done with a combination of curl/lift of the FEL and inertia/drive power of the tractor.
Both are a little less than I expected.
Thanks.