CLASS IV RECEIVER HITCH QUESTION

[VIEWQUEST]

I recently purchased a Dodge RAM 2500 with a listed towing capacity of 10,700 lbs. The manual has a table listing a class IV receiver hitch capacity @ 10,000 lbs. Above 10,000 lbs the table lists using a 5th wheel/goose neck for towing. The product brochure on the pickup lists a 12,000 lb towing capacity with a class IV receiver hitch but stabilizer bars must be used.

If I interpret this correctly does this mean that I can tow up to the maximum rating 10,700 lbs (disregarding added accessories etc... at this time) with the class IV receiver and stabilizer bars or am I overloading the receiver hitch?

 

[Highbeam]

Look on the actual receiver for the rating sticker. They all have them unless some boob removed it or painted over it to hide rust from launching boats.

Note that the tow rating is a bogus figure. You need to find the GVWR, GCWR, GAWR, and the hitch rating. Everything else is touchy feely marketing hype.

 

[keeney]

The marketing hype will typically mention the Maximum Available towing capacity. This assumes a very specific set of options and equipment are configured. Many options reduce towing capacity because they add weight.

In this example, I think that the key thing to understand here is that the class IV hitch rating limits you to 10,000 lbs, regardless of what the truck it is attached to is rated for. To get the full 10,700 lb rating, you will need to upgrade the hitch.

10,000 lbs requires a 2-5/16 ball and also a suitable ball mount (drawbar). be careful when purchasing these as well because the less expensive ones will typically only be rated for 6000 lbs or so. It doesn't make sense to me why anybody would offer a 2-5/16" ball that is only rated for 6000 lbs, but I have seen them.

 

[Highbeam]

Most every modern bumper pull RV is set up with a 2-5/16" ball. Even the ones that only weigh 2500 lbs. Maybe that is one of the reasons for the low rated ball. I had to look pretty hard and pay nearly double for my 10,000# rated 2-5/16" ball.

 

[755inNY]

<font color="blue"> It doesn't make sense to me why anybody would offer a 2-5/16" ball that is only rated for 6000 lbs, but I have seen them.
</font>

It is incorrect to assume that a 2-5/16" ball should be rated at 10,000 lbs. The weight rating is based on the ball size and shank diameter. For the 2-5/16" ball a 1" shank is rated at 6,000 lbs and the 1-1/4" shank can be rated at 10,000, 12,000 or 14,000 lbs. depending on the manufacturer.

The 2" ball has 3 different ratings depending on shank size.

Jeff

 

[Highbeam]

I would argue that you should not assume anything about shank size as related to weight rating. The rating is stamped on the ball. No stamp, no rating.

 

[wushaw]

The size of the shank is the sheer strength for any ball diameter and affects the weight rating.
Not all balls have a weight rating on them, GN non-threaded balls for example, the weight rating will be stamped on the hitch plate.

I just did a little research and found that two different size shanks can have the same weight rating /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[755inNY]

<font color="blue"> I would argue that you should not assume anything about shank size as related to weight rating. </font>

Highbeam,

I agree. I should have made it clear that the ratings I listed are for discussion puposes only. They represent one manufacturer's ratings. One must go by the rating stamped on the ball. I was trying to illustrate that it should not be considered unusual that a 2-5/16" ball is being sold with a 6,000 lb rating. There are numerous combinations of ball size, shank size and weight ratings. One must be carefull when selecting a ball that it is stamped with the rating you want. This applies to the draw bar, or ball mount, as well.

Jeff

 

[VIEWQUEST]

I improperly assumed that the truck as purchased would be equipped with a receiver hitch to handle 10,700 lbs and it was a surprise to me to find a 10,000 lb limit in the manual and a 12,000 lb rating for class IV with a weight distribution setup listed in the brochure. I'll check the sticker on the receiver frame.

Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[keeney]

After having shopped for towing equipment for my new truck, I agree that one must pay attention to the ratings of the ball and the ball-mount (drawbar) and if a rating of 10,000 lbs or 12,000 lbs is desired, you may have to go to a more specialty store. It was suprising and bothered me a little that the ball size wasn't really a function of the overall capacity of the towing setup.

To determine the towing capacity, you really need to look at the Gross Combined Weight Rating and subtract the "Curb Weight". The base GCWR typically varies by the base model and engine size. To get the advertised "available" towing number, you typically have to purchase the least-optioned truck (except you typiclaly need the towing package) with the largest engine and shortest wheelbase.

If you want to get nit-picky down to the nearest pound, the manufacturers typically publish a very detailed table of how much weight each option or feature adds. Options like 4x4 or a crew cab typically cut into the rated payload and towing capacity significantly. Leather seating, up-sized wheels, and other "trim" items each add a few pounds.

Or, take the truck and weigh it with you and whatever other passengers, cargo, and payload you intend to carry while you tow. Subtracting this weight from the GCWR for that model gives your remaining towing capacity.

Unless you plan to weigh your loaded trailer and loaded tow vehicle, I think you should leave a little margin for error in estimating. For example, towing my boat. I know the boat weighed almost exactly 4000 lbs. I know the trailer weighs abut 1000 lbs. My poor little Dodge Dakota was only rated to pull 5000 lbs. Theoretically, (dry and empty), I may have been right at its rated capacity. In practice (with fuel and stuff), I bet I was over by quite a bit.

Add a couple hundred pounds of fuel in the boat (I always filled it up whenever it was on the trailer due to convenience). Add another unknown amount of water in the bilge and soaked into the carpeting and seating. Add another hundred pounds of "stuff" that just tends to always be in the boat like the life vests, extra towels, skis, tow rope, wakeboard, small toolbox, fire extinguisher, anchor, extra anchor, paddles, fenders, rope, and the stereo. Add all the stuff you pack for the day into the boat like the cooler, food, chairs for the beach, toys for the kids, and that large inflatable pull-behind.

Now add all the stuff riding in the truck - payload and passengers in the truck count against your GCWR as well. Me, my wife, kids, and dog weigh in at maybe 450 lbs. Add some suitcases, more food, lawn chairs, sleeping bags, and fishing tackle for another couple of hundred pounds.

So on a typical weekend of towing my "5000 lb" boat and trailer, I was actually hauling a lot closer to 6000 lbs of stuff in my combined towing and payload weight.

Thats why I just upgraded to a bigger truck (Chevy 2500) that really is rated to pull around 10,000 lbs. Do I care if its exactly 10,700 or 9,500? Not really because I am leaving myself a bit of margin and only plan to pull 6000 to 7500 lbs.

If I really needed to tow close to 10,000 lbs on a regular basis, I would move up to something with a 12,000 lb rating (2500 HD or 3500HD in the Chevy lineup).

- Rick