Cleaning roller pump

/ Cleaning roller pump #61  
Brass garden hose fittings, for me.

I did the "male on one side / female on the other" -- not even the wife can screw up the quick attachment.

This makes it EASY to clean the pump (with garden hose) and dump in oil afterwards.

I did put the correct male / female set-up so I can use a cheap garden hose in-line valve between the tank and pump - if I have a 1/2 tank left over, I can just store it there while I take the pump off for cleaning.

I use the same GH fitting on the wand attachment -- easy to disconnect when I'm just using the booms; also easy to clean that sucker out. (I just put a "blind" on it when it's off to prevent any leakage)

I put an in-line ball-valve on the boom supply line - one way for the boom, other way for the wand. That way, I can use the same regulator for both.

As my pal says, "Let the defoliating begin!"

Be cool,

mlg
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #62  
Brass garden hose fittings, for me.

I did the "male on one side / female on the other" -- not even the wife can screw up the quick attachment.

This makes it EASY to clean the pump (with garden hose) and dump in oil afterwards.

I did put the correct male / female set-up so I can use a cheap garden hose in-line valve between the tank and pump - if I have a 1/2 tank left over, I can just store it there while I take the pump off for cleaning.

I use the same GH fitting on the wand attachment -- easy to disconnect when I'm just using the booms; also easy to clean that sucker out. (I just put a "blind" on it when it's off to prevent any leakage)

I put an in-line ball-valve on the boom supply line - one way for the boom, other way for the wand. That way, I can use the same regulator for both.

As my pal says, "Let the defoliating begin!"

Be cool,

mlg
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #63  
Bird,

On the Platelet donation. I figured a little over two hours for the whole thing. Arrival, paperwork, hookup, donation, rinseback.

The machine sucks out the blood, and if set to withdraw too fast a vein can close a little. So if you have veins that can stand a stronger suction, the process might run faster for you than it did for me. In fact my right arm worked better than my left, so that's the one we always used.

In case you didn't know, here's how it worked.

Machine pulls out some blood, it's centerfuged to put all the blood components in layers by density. The machine starts to put it back in your body and when it gets to the platelet part it's diverted to a storage bag. Then the rest is added back into your arm.

The machine then pulls out some more blood and the process repeats.

All I had to do was sit in the reliner and watch TV or read a book. The nice nurses brought drinks and snacks. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It's a worthwhile effort and I did it once a month for about nine years. I only stopped when we moved to the country.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #64  
Bird,

On the Platelet donation. I figured a little over two hours for the whole thing. Arrival, paperwork, hookup, donation, rinseback.

The machine sucks out the blood, and if set to withdraw too fast a vein can close a little. So if you have veins that can stand a stronger suction, the process might run faster for you than it did for me. In fact my right arm worked better than my left, so that's the one we always used.

In case you didn't know, here's how it worked.

Machine pulls out some blood, it's centerfuged to put all the blood components in layers by density. The machine starts to put it back in your body and when it gets to the platelet part it's diverted to a storage bag. Then the rest is added back into your arm.

The machine then pulls out some more blood and the process repeats.

All I had to do was sit in the reliner and watch TV or read a book. The nice nurses brought drinks and snacks. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

It's a worthwhile effort and I did it once a month for about nine years. I only stopped when we moved to the country.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #65  
Gary, that's basically the way the "double red" works, it draws some out, puts some back, twice. And I think they schedule it for up to 2 hours, but it's never taken more than one. I understand the platelet does take longer. When they have blood drives in the bus, it's whole blood only. When they set up in a building (last month in my daughter's church), they do both whole blood and double red, but I think they only do the platelets in their own facility. So I know it's a different machine; just don't know the differences.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #66  
Gary, that's basically the way the "double red" works, it draws some out, puts some back, twice. And I think they schedule it for up to 2 hours, but it's never taken more than one. I understand the platelet does take longer. When they have blood drives in the bus, it's whole blood only. When they set up in a building (last month in my daughter's church), they do both whole blood and double red, but I think they only do the platelets in their own facility. So I know it's a different machine; just don't know the differences.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #67  
<font color="blue"> if I have a 1/2 tank left over, I can just store it </font>

Nice idea for the quick connect garden fittings my friend.

Don't know what you're running through your sprayer but the majority of chemical companies recommend only mixing what you'll immediately use. Most mixed chemicals lose most of their effectiveness within 72 hours of the initial mix.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #68  
<font color="blue"> if I have a 1/2 tank left over, I can just store it </font>

Nice idea for the quick connect garden fittings my friend.

Don't know what you're running through your sprayer but the majority of chemical companies recommend only mixing what you'll immediately use. Most mixed chemicals lose most of their effectiveness within 72 hours of the initial mix.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump
  • Thread Starter
#69  
I was worried about brass hose fittings corroding. Needless worry? I can pick them up easily today.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump
  • Thread Starter
#70  
I was worried about brass hose fittings corroding. Needless worry? I can pick them up easily today.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #71  
I've had ONE of the brass quick couplers go bad in the last 10 years, and it was one that was only used for water on a garden hose. And I guess the reason it went back was because it was coupling two garden hoses together and they were never uncoupled for about 5 years. Of course the ones I have now are all different ages since I've just added them as I added hoses, sprinklers, nozzles, sprayers, etc. So right now I'm using more than a dozen of them.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #72  
I've had ONE of the brass quick couplers go bad in the last 10 years, and it was one that was only used for water on a garden hose. And I guess the reason it went back was because it was coupling two garden hoses together and they were never uncoupled for about 5 years. Of course the ones I have now are all different ages since I've just added them as I added hoses, sprinklers, nozzles, sprayers, etc. So right now I'm using more than a dozen of them.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #73  
<font color="blue"> Mike - PineRidge writes: Don't know what you're running through your sprayer but the majority of chemical companies recommend only mixing what you'll immediately use. Most mixed chemicals lose most of their effectiveness within 72 hours of the initial mix. </font>


Yup -- there's a problem. But, if the spouse is doing 2,4 D one evening, and wants to finish up tomorrow... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

To be quite honest, I haven't used the valve yet. It's a screw-in & easy to remove. Put it in there "just in case..."

Be cool,

mlg
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #74  
<font color="blue"> Mike - PineRidge writes: Don't know what you're running through your sprayer but the majority of chemical companies recommend only mixing what you'll immediately use. Most mixed chemicals lose most of their effectiveness within 72 hours of the initial mix. </font>


Yup -- there's a problem. But, if the spouse is doing 2,4 D one evening, and wants to finish up tomorrow... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

To be quite honest, I haven't used the valve yet. It's a screw-in & easy to remove. Put it in there "just in case..."

Be cool,

mlg
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #75  
I have used what VinnieNC has done for years. It works very well. When you get your cam lock fittings get an extra one that plugs into the inlet hose and an adapter for your garden hose. After you disconnect the pump hook your garden hose to the pump and flush it out. You could also make a sprayer tank filler as follows:

For filling the sprayer tank I use a garden hose adapter into a brass ball valve, and then a J shaed piece of 1/2 copper tubing. This hooks over the top of the sprayer tank (fill hole) and adds the water down the side of the tank. This gets the water in fast, keeps down the foam, does no pop out and spray me, and also leaves room fr the addition of the chemicals. If you attach your cam lock fitting used for flushing the pump to the end of the J copper tubing then it will not get lost and you already have the flush fitting hooked up when it is time to flush the pump out.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #76  
I have used what VinnieNC has done for years. It works very well. When you get your cam lock fittings get an extra one that plugs into the inlet hose and an adapter for your garden hose. After you disconnect the pump hook your garden hose to the pump and flush it out. You could also make a sprayer tank filler as follows:

For filling the sprayer tank I use a garden hose adapter into a brass ball valve, and then a J shaed piece of 1/2 copper tubing. This hooks over the top of the sprayer tank (fill hole) and adds the water down the side of the tank. This gets the water in fast, keeps down the foam, does no pop out and spray me, and also leaves room fr the addition of the chemicals. If you attach your cam lock fitting used for flushing the pump to the end of the J copper tubing then it will not get lost and you already have the flush fitting hooked up when it is time to flush the pump out.
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #77  
I just recently set up my sprayer for use on my 3PT versus the aging wagon I was using behind the golf cart. Rather than spend $100 on a new electric pump and more for another cart I built a sturdy pallet of sorts out of treated pine to sit on top of my KK carry-all (1,000 lb version). I mounted the 65 gallon tank, hose rack, sprayer bar, and filter/strainer on the pallet with two ratchet tie down straps so removal is quick.

The pump is set up with elbow fittings just out of the ports to miss the PTO shield on the back of my JD790. On the end of the pipe elbows (use 3/4", don't down size from the pump port size) I used two black plastic quick couplers like those used on semi-trailer chemical tanks. These seal and release with two small levers so all the hook up and tear down is a snap in seconds. With the QC fittings on all the attachment points for the 3/4" hose my wife can hook it up and dismantle it. (with gloves on of course - Roundup is nasty)

With this quick method for attaching the plumbing I can remove and clean the pump while the tank/sprayer is still hooked to the tractor for starting up again the next day. (I use Roundup more than my gas trimmer) I only drain the tank of chemical if it's not be used the next day or two. If I drop the tank/sprayer attachment first I can leave the pump on the PTO shaft, feed water or cleaner to it while it is able to run/pump itself out. Use a small tub to catch the chemical or cleaner and you're done. Mostly I use soap and water for the first cleaning step and use the anti-freeze on the workbench. They make dust caps that are compatible with the QC fittings so you have a real cool means to seal off the pump while not in use. They even come with little key rings on them to attach small cables or chains so you don't lose anything while working.

Here's a link to a typical manufacturer's page for these fittings. I buy mine at the local farm store in the sprayer section.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=114&Page=1
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #78  
I just recently set up my sprayer for use on my 3PT versus the aging wagon I was using behind the golf cart. Rather than spend $100 on a new electric pump and more for another cart I built a sturdy pallet of sorts out of treated pine to sit on top of my KK carry-all (1,000 lb version). I mounted the 65 gallon tank, hose rack, sprayer bar, and filter/strainer on the pallet with two ratchet tie down straps so removal is quick.

The pump is set up with elbow fittings just out of the ports to miss the PTO shield on the back of my JD790. On the end of the pipe elbows (use 3/4", don't down size from the pump port size) I used two black plastic quick couplers like those used on semi-trailer chemical tanks. These seal and release with two small levers so all the hook up and tear down is a snap in seconds. With the QC fittings on all the attachment points for the 3/4" hose my wife can hook it up and dismantle it. (with gloves on of course - Roundup is nasty)

With this quick method for attaching the plumbing I can remove and clean the pump while the tank/sprayer is still hooked to the tractor for starting up again the next day. (I use Roundup more than my gas trimmer) I only drain the tank of chemical if it's not be used the next day or two. If I drop the tank/sprayer attachment first I can leave the pump on the PTO shaft, feed water or cleaner to it while it is able to run/pump itself out. Use a small tub to catch the chemical or cleaner and you're done. Mostly I use soap and water for the first cleaning step and use the anti-freeze on the workbench. They make dust caps that are compatible with the QC fittings so you have a real cool means to seal off the pump while not in use. They even come with little key rings on them to attach small cables or chains so you don't lose anything while working.

Here's a link to a typical manufacturer's page for these fittings. I buy mine at the local farm store in the sprayer section.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/category.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=114&Page=1
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #79  
20060531

Those are the camlock fittings Bird & others are referring to above, I believe. Most TSCs, etc, and Leinbach in Winston-Salem, NC (Vinnie!) have them. They WILL break if water or any weak solution freezes in them, for sure. Ask me how I know. At least I was smart 'nough to have taken the pump loose and store it inside. Thank you, Camlocks!

Just a quick note--roundup seems to remain potent in my handsprayer tank over long periods (have only used 2-4-D in my tractor/ssl mounted sprayer with the roundup-ready Hypro pump/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) , though I know that is not recommended. It acts relatively slowly so sometimes you might think it is bad when it actually is working.

Thanks for all the ideas here, helpful! Vinnie, you may wind up being as highly regarded as Bird, PineRidge and the others with that kind of start!

Jim
 
/ Cleaning roller pump #80  
20060531

Those are the camlock fittings Bird & others are referring to above, I believe. Most TSCs, etc, and Leinbach in Winston-Salem, NC (Vinnie!) have them. They WILL break if water or any weak solution freezes in them, for sure. Ask me how I know. At least I was smart 'nough to have taken the pump loose and store it inside. Thank you, Camlocks!

Just a quick note--roundup seems to remain potent in my handsprayer tank over long periods (have only used 2-4-D in my tractor/ssl mounted sprayer with the roundup-ready Hypro pump/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif) , though I know that is not recommended. It acts relatively slowly so sometimes you might think it is bad when it actually is working.

Thanks for all the ideas here, helpful! Vinnie, you may wind up being as highly regarded as Bird, PineRidge and the others with that kind of start!

Jim
 
 

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