Snow Equipment Owning/Operating Clearing snow with FEL

[blackie65]

Well,.I had my first experience moving snow with my Kubota 3410 and the FEL. The post i have read on hear in the past really helped me out. There was only about 4" on the ground and I just rolled the bucket back and dropped down so it would float. Pushed until bucket filled and dumped where I wanted it.
It worked really well. I was worried about disturbing all the gravel but in the float position this was not an issue. Thanks for all your wisdom TBNers :thumbsup:

 

[jyeames]

I read many of the posts in this thread but not all so I hope I'm not repeating anyone elses comments. I've always found that a bucket (or "Quick Attach") mounted truck or Jeep blade works great on snow. You can always find a plow and A-Frame with PA cylinders for less then $750! I just set up a 78" Sno Way (very lightweight) on my BX25. I had 72" meyers plows on my B3030 and on the B2100 before that. The B3030 had a Quick Attach and front remotes for power angle.
I'm putting front and rear remote hydraulics on the new BX25 as we speak (write?) but in the meantime !'ve set up a hydraulic lock as I did on my B2100 (and the B6100 before that). A short hose from each power angle cylinder to a lever operated ball valve lets you lift the blade off the ground, hop off the tractor, open the valve, pull/push the plow to the angle you want and when you close the valve. the hydraulics are locked and it stays where you put it! If you want to get a little more fancy, make it a 12V NC solenoid valve and just hit the switch and nudge the plow against a snowbank to push it in the direction you want it to go! The key to a bucket mounted plow is to let it float! A chain (similar to the way they mount on many PU trucks) to a center bucket hook is the easy way to accomplish this. Weld 4 tabs into the bottom/back of the bucket to accommodate the width of the A-Frame push arms, insert 2 pins and you're plowing! It's spring loaded for trip protection, isn't limited in the height you can plow, maintains traction at the fron wheels since you're not trying to float the loader arms and buct, and they're helping with both weight and traction!

Hope this helps!

 

[Runner]

For 40 years, I was used to clearing snow off paved driveways with a lawn tractor with front blade and walk-behind blower. Then, when we moved "out", we got 400 feet of gravel drive with a couple of concrete pads thrown in, and a compact tractor. I bought a front blade and blower for the tractor (JD 2520) because that's what I thought would work best. However, I have not been able to keep them from digging into the gravel.

This year, I tried something different. I tried just pushing the snow down the middle of the drive with the loader bucket in "float" and the cutting edge tilted up about an inch. This worked beautifully! The bucket rides along on the "heel" and doesn't dig in.

After the first pass down the middle with the bucket, I make another pass down each side with the rear blade angled to push the remaining snow off the sides. I have a pair of gauge wheels on the rear blade that keep it from digging in. My rear blade also pivots on the vertical axis which helps it follow the contours of the drive.

So, as much as I hate to admit it (because I have a dedicated front blade and blower) I really think the FEL and rear blade are the best tools for most snow removal situations at my place. I will use the blower for the really deep snows, but they don't happen very often. Looks like the simple solution was the best in this case....

 

[hvacman]

I found that the blade was to low to be able to push the snow over the bank on the edge of my 800 foot driveway. Only use it early in season before heavy accumlation. Blower and FEL work well for me on a gravel surface.

 

[First one]

We just got over a Northeaster this weekend. must have got at least 8-12" and had about 5-6" on the ground. I have a road going from the back of my house and along the top of my blueberry field, about 500-600'. I started pushing snow ( without my rear chains) just to see how far I could push it before the tractor would spin. I would go down the middle first ,then as I came back up the road I'd widen the road by just taken some off each side. I found that instead of pushing ,filling my bucket and having to dump, I would put the bucket level in float then push until the tractor would stop just before it would spin.I'd pick up the bucket ,back up and put the bucket back down in float then go forward until I'd come to my pile, then go into it as I picked up the bucket just enough to start taking the heft of it and would push that until the tractor would stop. Back up put the bucket in float level to clean up as I go. Once your bucket fills with snow ,Don't dump it. Leave it filled as this makes the snow your pushing roll off the sides (most of it ) you will get some over the top ,but nothing that you won't get when you back up to clean up. I saved alot of time not having to keep backing up to dump off the sides of the road ,as I would have to keep driving my front wheel off the road to dump. Might be something to try .I know when I have to plow this road again ,I'll be doing the same thing again. The thing I kept in mind is when you get to the pile your pushing slowly be picking your bucket up until your able to move the pile forward as you start to slow keep coming up with your bucket. I would not go more than 15-20' at a time so not to get much snow under the tractor. When you back up to clean up you"ll get it clean by putting the bucket in float on level. Push that up to your pile and repeat it.

 

[whistlepig]

That's the way I do it. Once I get the angle set on the bucket I want to go all the way with out stopping and dumping the bucket. I couldn't do this until I got chains this year. I used to use a blade on and ATV (which I still have). When we moved here the snow drifts so badly it was just too much for the blade and ATV. I have gotten good enough with the FEL now that I prefer it over the blade.