I bought a used New Holland skid loader last spring, and have been steadily catching up with neglected maintenance. I have two grease fittings on the loader arms that still will not take grease. The alemites themselves are open, but the sleeve itself is tight. I have tried heat, penetrating oil, beating with a hammer. The loader functions fine, but squeals some. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Clogged/Galled Grease Fittings
- Thread starter Arbo
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Hooked_on_HP
Veteran Member
Remove the pin, remove the grease zerk and run a small drill bit through the hole.
Bill
Bill
The way it is right now, the pin won't come out.
pat32rf
Veteran Member
Once you get the pin out, take a grinder and grind a grouve into it so the grease has a bit of space to penetrate
AlanB
Elite Member
This is the bane of my existence I think. I hate this so much, and seem to have to do it way, way too often, even on my equipment that I would like to think I somewhat keep up with.
First, pull the zerk, then take a small pick, and weasel pee of your choice and dig, oil, scrape, and blow with compressed air into the hole to get all the gunk you can out.
Move the loader up and down, keep pouring the penetrant too it, little heat helps sometimes but for me it is usually just persistence and moving the joint.
If you are lucky, you will get it to start taking the oil, then put in the zerk and it will take the grease, then grease and work it then get the pin out clean everything up and grease it well and reinstall and swear you won't let it happen again, untill you find yourself the next time doing the exact same thing (oh, maybe that is just me
)
If not, as hooked on HP said, get the pin out, I rate that right under going to Chuckie Cheeses of fun things to do but at least you get to use fire and hydraulics. Pins that wont come out are just a real joy, keep the joint moving while driving the pin and if you can weld fabricate something to apply hydraulic force to it to get it out. Careful application of dry ice and heat can sometimes break things loose and get it to start moving but the real trick for me again is persistence and keep changing tactics on how to get it out.
The tool with the light oil that you hammer, I thought would be my savior and have not had one work clear with it yet.
Good luck with it.
First, pull the zerk, then take a small pick, and weasel pee of your choice and dig, oil, scrape, and blow with compressed air into the hole to get all the gunk you can out.
Move the loader up and down, keep pouring the penetrant too it, little heat helps sometimes but for me it is usually just persistence and moving the joint.
If you are lucky, you will get it to start taking the oil, then put in the zerk and it will take the grease, then grease and work it then get the pin out clean everything up and grease it well and reinstall and swear you won't let it happen again, untill you find yourself the next time doing the exact same thing (oh, maybe that is just me
)If not, as hooked on HP said, get the pin out, I rate that right under going to Chuckie Cheeses of fun things to do but at least you get to use fire and hydraulics. Pins that wont come out are just a real joy, keep the joint moving while driving the pin and if you can weld fabricate something to apply hydraulic force to it to get it out. Careful application of dry ice and heat can sometimes break things loose and get it to start moving but the real trick for me again is persistence and keep changing tactics on how to get it out.
The tool with the light oil that you hammer, I thought would be my savior and have not had one work clear with it yet.
Good luck with it.
Wayne County Hose
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You're not using a big enough hammer.
Soundguy
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I agree.
to the OP:
if you think the pin is hard to get out now.. wait till it wears a shoulder, or past the bushing, if any, into the parent metal and sets cockeyed..
get it out now.. correct and repalce before it goes from being a nusiance to an expensive repair.
soundguy
to the OP:
if you think the pin is hard to get out now.. wait till it wears a shoulder, or past the bushing, if any, into the parent metal and sets cockeyed..
get it out now.. correct and repalce before it goes from being a nusiance to an expensive repair.
soundguy
a good stout long barreled air hammer with a tapered bit or chisel. bit i am referring to is almost to a point, but not sharp, sort of rounded on the end. start you a place in the center of the pin. beware of cheap chisels, they are apt to shatter. this setup works wonders for things like you are talking about. good luck
DJ54
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Try as mentioned, cleaning out all the gunk below the fitting... Fill the hole with as mentioned penetrating oil. The thinner the better..
Re-insert the grease fitting, and try to pump grease in. Most hand guns produce from 5,000 to 10,000 psi. Penetrate will follow the path of least resistance, and the grease will follow. I can't think of a joint this hasn't worked on I've come across, unless the bushing spun the grease hole away from where it's supposed to be. I learned this trick from an old truck mechanic, freeing up king pins in trucks.
I keep an old gun loaded with one of those 99 cent tubes of grease, say like from TSC while on sale, just for that purpose. Once it takes grease, get the other gun, and push that out with HP grease.
Re-insert the grease fitting, and try to pump grease in. Most hand guns produce from 5,000 to 10,000 psi. Penetrate will follow the path of least resistance, and the grease will follow. I can't think of a joint this hasn't worked on I've come across, unless the bushing spun the grease hole away from where it's supposed to be. I learned this trick from an old truck mechanic, freeing up king pins in trucks.
I keep an old gun loaded with one of those 99 cent tubes of grease, say like from TSC while on sale, just for that purpose. Once it takes grease, get the other gun, and push that out with HP grease.
