Club 2210

Jim_Wendell · Dec 5, 2003

Hard starting in the winter

Has anyone figured out how to rewire the starting system so the glow plugs heat first without having to prevent the engine turning over? Can a wiring diagram be obtained from Deere? This should not be too difficult to rewire and substitute a switch with an additional position. I have driven diesel cars for many years and cannot understand a system without pre-start glow plug heating. Any ideas?

Hambone · Dec 5, 2003

Re: Hard starting in the winter

What tractor do you have?

gator · Dec 5, 2003

Re: Hard starting in the winter

Jim,
On my JD 750, you turn the key full left for glow plug (without it cranking the engine) for about 10 seconds, then to the right to start. Maybe yours is the same way.

Hambone · Dec 5, 2003

Sorry about that response. You changed the title of the thread so I didn't know we were in the Club 2210 thread.

On the 2210, to enable the glow plugs/intake heater, pull up on the pto knob then turn key to start. Hold for a few seconds and you will hear the relay click. I do this a couple times, then push pto knob back in and start. Should start right up.

djsch · Dec 5, 2003

Yep! That starting method works great for me except I put the transmission in gear instead of using the PTO switch. I'm a "worrier" and I'm afraid the PTO switch will wear out. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I just installed my FEL for the first time. I didn't pay for dealer setup so I set it up myself. My advice is that unless you like to tinker, pay the dealer! I worked on it for several hours. Had to go buy some different wrenches etc to make a few adjustments so it would go on & off smoothly. Now that its on, I love it. I was able to scrape the hard packed snow off the driveway that the snowblower won't touch. And it goes on and off real slick. Just takes a couple minutes. However, I do have a problem/question... When I take it off, I can't put the stand all the way down as the hydraulic hoses get too short. I can only put it down enough to lift the masts up enough to clear the front wheels by a few inches. That's enough to get it on & off but it doesn't look very stable with the stand at such an angle. I'd like to see it more upright. So, what is everyone else's experience? And how are your hoses routed? If I route them as shown in the setup instructions, I don't think I could even take it off the tractor!

Dave

Hambone · Dec 5, 2003

I have noticed if the bucket is level it works a lot better. I will try and get a pic first of next week.
Sorry can't help sooner.

bigpete · Dec 5, 2003

This may, or may not help.....

I stand next to my tractor on the right side when I run the joy stick to take my loader off. When I begin to extend the loader arms to lift them from the brackets, I make sure the parking brake is off. Of course this means I have to be on a level surface--pavement or shed floor, preferably. As the arms extend and the hoses shorten, the frame of the loader begins to pull away from the bumper/frame of the front of the tractor. I then roll the tractor foreward with a couple of tugs/nudges on the handle on the righ fender. No extra time or effort, really.