Clutch Adjustment

[greg_g]

Is it problematic that the fingers can be 'wiggled' in place?

Yes. The adjustments you made have over-compensated the main drive clutch at the expense of the aux (PTO) clutch. Not only should those fingers not "wiggle", they should actually be too stiff to depress by hand. As a result, that clutch is too loose - so it stands to reason that the other one is too tight.

It's a stack height thing, which is nearly impossible to accurately obtain without splitting the tractor. Short of that, it's a hit and miss thing. It appears that the PTO adjustments need to be loosened to obtain the prescribed 1.2mm gap, then the fingers adjusted well past the point where you can move them by hand. #6 in the diagram adjusts the PTO clutch. I think yours are way too tight, you should be able to see a little bit of the spring underneath. In the end, each of those three #6 nuts should have a 1.2mm gap between it and the pressure plate tab.

Then move back to the release fingers. They have to be tightened. If you had the tractor split, it would be possible to adjust them to obtain the spec'd 96.8mm stack height. But since that's not possible through the window, you'll just have to tighten them by guess and by gosh. But for sure, the should NOT wiggle to the touch. Then after once again getting them all to within the spec'd 0.1mm of each other, adjust the external linkage (#13) to bring the TOB face to within the prescribed 2.5mm. At the end, a little adjustment of the stop bolt (#11) may be required as well.

Like I said, trying to return to somewhere near the prescribed stack height - through the inspection window - is hit and miss at best. So you may have to repeat the above more than once before you obtain satisfactory results.

//greg//

 

[redmand]

If this thread is still active I have a problem with my Jinma 284 that is similar. The PTO on mine never stops turning, no matter what setting all the engage/disengage levers and PTO speed are set to. My friend went so far as to push the sole of his shoe against the PTO shaft and it kept turning. I do have a two stage clutch on my tractor, and the only time the PTO shaft does not turn is when the clutch is fully depressed.
Can anybody give me some advice, preferably with diagrams and pictures...Thanks.

 

[RonMar]

Nice resurection, 9 years...

The PTO clutch output shaft rides inside the main clutch output shaft(look at the drawing in the previous post). There is always a little friction/drag between the two. There is also a little friction at the coupling points in the gearbox which will keep the PTO stub rotating. With the two disengage levers disengaged(main pto disengage and 540/1000 lever in N), you should be able to rotate the PTO shaft with the tractor shutdown using a big pipe wrench or lever and a PTO coupling attached to the shaft. A shoe applied to the spinning PTO stub might not be enough drag to overcome the rotating friction. The reason it stops with the clutch all the way in is that you have stopped both the main and PTO shafts from spinning so nothing in the gearcase is spinning...

If you can turn it with a wrench, engage the 1000/540 lever in a gear range and engage the main PTO engage lever(by your right heel when seated. And try and turn the stub with the wrench. You shouldn't be able to. Now with an assistant, put some force on the wrench as your assistant depresses the clutch pedal slowly. Still shouldn't move until you pass 1/2 clutch pedal. Somewhere between 1/2 and fully depressed the PTO clutch disc should release and allow you to turn the stub with the wrench.

Or hook a PTO implement up and see if it works right