Clutch Removed. All mushy?!?!?!... (photos)

[tigers2007]

Well I finally got it separated. Just as I suspected, the clutch was worthless. One side was worn down almost all the way and the other side was "mushy -- like some sort of thick grease. I measured it and yep - its an 8 incher. I'm getting ready to do a large parts order but I'm having difficultly finding out what I need to replace to correct whats leaking. I believe that there is a leak from the transmission shaft area. I have yet to pull the flywheel and check for a leak (will try in a few minutes if the rain quits...

Does anyone have a recommendation on what I should replace before slapping on the new clutch? Should I do the rear-main-seal regardless of its current condition? What exactly do I need to fix the assumed trans shaft leak? I can't even find the gasket (trans shaft) on Tommy's or Circle-G's website.

 

[tigers2007]

I should also ask: Is there any real value in purchasing a complete clutch vs. just buying the two disc's and a pilot bearing?

 

[Bob Rooks]

I should also ask: Is there any real value in purchasing a complete clutch vs. just buying the two disc's and a pilot bearing?

Not really at this point. It looks like the pressure plate is toast from here. Maybe it can be saved by machining the face if it doesn't take too much away from the stack height. If it were me, I'd replace everything I could while I'm in there; pilot bearing, crankshaft seal, transmission seal, clutch release bearing, etc. And also look closely at the pins in the clutch release yoke cross shaft.

 

[sandman2234]

Splitting it once is the easy part, but splitting it the second time will make you kick yourself the whole time, if you fail to catch the right part that is leaking, or if another one is leaking and you just missed it because another was leaking worse. I agree, change everything you can get to while your in there...
David from jax

 

[Rich Waugh]

I would think it is much more likely that any leakage is coming from the engine than the transmission. A number of Chinese tractors have been known to be poorly assembled at the factory and the flywheel cover-to-engine block joint was loose and leaked oil. Mine had this issue, in fact.

Definitely pull the flywheel, pull the flywheel housing and replace the main bearing seal, gaskets, clutch discs possibly pressure plate, clutch release bearing and the pins that hold the clutch release fork to the shaft. Double pin that joint to be sure of it in the future. The transmission shaft seal I probably wouldn't worry about, but if it makes you feel better then replace it, too.

 

[dex3361]

I agree with the rest. I would change the trans seal, rear main, pilot bushing, throw out bearing, pressure plate and clutch discs. I would also inspect the shaft bushings for wear. How many hours are on this machine?

 

[greg_g]

Lots of 8" clutch casualties in the early Jinmas, which is why they went to 9" in later models. Pretty sure the flywheel bolt pattern doesn't care if you bolt an 8" or a 9" in there. Check with a dealer to make sure. But assuming that's true, I'd toss the whole mess and upgrade to a fresh 9" clutch pack. Same pilot bearing, same throwout bearing, same roll pins.

I too suspect if it's oil that ruined your clutch, it more than likely engine oil rather than gear oil. But I see rust. Do you power wash the thing? Is the tractor parked in full sun for days at a time? Parked in rain/snow/ice ? Is the weep hole blocked up? Did any clues drip out on the floor as you separated the two tractor halves?

 

[Affordable]

gregg// You cannot upgrade the clutch to a 9" the flywheel is different,most all of the newer Jinmas 254/284 tractors have the 8" assembly in them,I would replace the clutch pack ,new bearings.gaskets and rear main seal.You can check the flywheel housing bolts at the same time.There is a seal on the backside of the bearing seat bracket part number 254.37.521 I'm not looking in a book at home but can help you with it on Monday,if you have a parts book you will see it

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[tigers2007]

I have a 2000 Agracat 2940super Y385 engine "25HP" about 500hrs.

Okay, now I see kind of an issue - the bracket you describe, "254.37.521" is listed as "184.21S.107" with gasket "184.21S.106" and oil seal "GB/T9877.1-1988" as shown in my Agracat Parts List. I'm going to have to assume that my Agracat is identical to the Jinma 254.

Is the pilot bearing pressed into the flywheel?
If the rear main seal is replaced; that should stop any leaks coming in from the engine side -- right? Should I pull the engine to flywheel housing bolts and put thread sealer on them too?

So far I will:

Replace rear main seal.
Replace the bearing seat bracket gasket
**Do I replace the oil seal and bearing behind this bracket too???
Replace the entire clutch assembly
Replace throwout bearing
Replace double roll pins in the clutch fork
Replace clutch fork spring

 

[greg_g]

Is the pilot bearing pressed into the flywheel?
If the rear main seal is replaced; that should stop any leaks coming in from the engine side -- right? Should I pull the engine to flywheel housing bolts and put thread sealer on them too?

=No, you can probably fish it out with a finger. Well, mine did anyway.
=Yes, but there's also a big round cork or paper gasket between the engine block and the flywheel housing that I'd replace as well.
=The OE flywheel housing bolts bolt threads might be stretched already. I'd go with new bolts as well. If they're quality bolts, LocTite shouldn't be necessary - but that's your call.

Tommy's manuals are newer than yours, but you can pretty much count on him being able to cross the new numbers back to the old ones (and vice versa).

//greg//