Cold engine starting procedure

[RalphVa]

On all diesels except the VW TDI, which would start just with key and no throttle and almost immediately in all weather, glow the proper amount, generally 3 to 10 seconds, with throttle set at near 1/2 open. Let up on throttle once lumbering engine gets going so that it is at idle when hitting on all cylinders. This worked on 1973 220D, 1983 240D, 4010 JD, 1025R JD and 2025R JD. If you do not open the throttle on many diesels, it'll just start, shudder and stop in the cold. Actually, the Isuzu diesel on our generator (little gem; it is) starts and runs like the TDI, all automated: starts at its approximately 1600 rpm running rate after a brief glow period. You'd never ever know it was a diesel unless you smelled the exhaust and had to wait for the glow period: very slight diesel smell. No smell from the TDI's exhaust except after a regen.

Put an engine heater on for only 15 to 30 minutes before, and it likely won't shudder and shake and will likely start at idle. Started our 1973 220D Benz once at -22F in Vermont after running the lower rad heater for about 30 minutes. Started immediately (like the usual 1/2 turn of the crankshaft) with throttle set at about 1/2. Had fuel gelling issues later making it stop twice on the road. Sat for about a minute or so, restarted and fine (after 2nd stop). Fuel filter is right next to the engine on Benzes. Will melt any wax from the filter once engine is warmed enough. Wife would occasionally plug in the 240D's block heater to have heat immediately inside the car. She'd plug it in about 15 minutes before leaving.

Ralph

 

[thepumpguysc]

Most people don't know this but there IS a "Starting Fuel Delivery" spec.. that is checked on a test stand.. and.. its checked at FULL THROTTLE.
IF its checked at low idle, the delivery is very low.. & fails the test..
Some "inline" pumps are automatic.. but are normally found on OLDER JD's..
ALL mechanical "rotary" pumps are checked at HI IDLE..
Even the electronic pumps, slam the controls to HI idle..
Most can achieve "starting fuel" at 1/2 throttle.. but if ur experiencing a hard starting condition at 1/2.. move it to full..
{case closed}

 

[doneill127]

Supposed to be 18 F tomorrow morning. Think I’ll try starting with full throttle and see if it makes any difference.

 

[JerryK]

I would not start it at full throttle [ what is called high idle ]. If it is an indirect injected motor, it requires X amount of seconds to preheat the injection chambers before she will fire. Most direct injected will fire without the grid heaters cycling, but 'like' the grid heater warming up the intake air. I start mine at idle, bump it up a little to get all the cylinders firing, then idle back down. Let it run like this for a little while, then raise the RPM up into the 1350ish range. Diesels do not make heat like a gas motor at idle, and require more RPM to keep the cylinders from being washed with unburned diesel at low RPM. Moderately using the tractor is a better practice than letting it idle for long periods to warm it up. Just like a gas vehicle. They now say you should get the thing moving as soon as reasonably possible.

 

[RoyJackson]

I would not start it at full throttle [ what is called high idle ]. If it is an indirect injected motor, it requires X amount of seconds to preheat the injection chambers before she will fire. Most direct injected will fire without the grid heaters cycling, but 'like' the grid heater warming up the intake air. I start mine at idle, bump it up a little to get all the cylinders firing, then idle back down. Let it run like this for a little while, then raise the RPM up into the 1350ish range. Diesels do not make heat like a gas motor at idle, and require more RPM to keep the cylinders from being washed with unburned diesel at low RPM. Moderately using the tractor is a better practice than letting it idle for long periods to warm it up. Just like a gas vehicle. They now say you should get the thing moving as soon as reasonably possible.

About the same here...once it catches and the idle smooths out, I go to about 1500 RPM for the warm up. Summer, that's 5 minutes...cold weather...10-15 minutes, but I don't up it to PTO RPM until the temp gage is at least at quarter scale.
The 4520 I have now has a Deere Powertech engine. All my previous Deeres had Yanmar engines which seemed to warm a bit quicker then the Powertech...

 

[doneill127]

Not trying to be a PIA and as I said I’m going to try a partial/ full throttle start. But even JD says to crank up the fuel. The screen shot is from the 3032e owners manual.

 

[AchingBack]

Just curious. My Max has an MHI SL3 diesel with Bosch Denso Injection. The Mahindra manual says the starting procedure is to put speed control at idle, hit the glow plugs (10 sec), then start the engine, cold or hot. The Mitsubishi SL3 Operation/Maitenance manual says the cold engine start procedure is to put the speed control at full hit the glow plugs and start. Also says to give it a 5-10 min. warm up at idle which also differs from Mahindra's manual.

I've never had a problem following the Mahindra procedure but found it interesting that it contradicts the engine OEM's manual. Was wondering what others are doing and if there's and benefit or harm in opening the throttle to full when starting the engine.

Our tractors have the same engine. My 2615 was purchased new in 2005. Here is what the owners manual says about starting the S3L2 engine: Start engine at idle speed and warm up at 1500rpm for 2 minutes.

I question the information in your manual.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U said the inj. pump is a Denso/Bosch.. but which type.?? Inline or Rotary.??
The inline pumps have a "starting spring" in the governor that pulls the control rack to "starting fuel" when/after the engine has shut off or at cranking speed..
BUT the rotary pumps do not.. & require the throttle to be at 1/2 to full to achieve "starting fuel"..
Then yank the throttle to just above low idle to warm it up.. {about 200 rpm more}
AND ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL BEFORE STARTING..
AND its not a bad idea to drain any water that may have settled in your separator..
ESPECIALLY with the colder temps we're seeing now..

 

[JerryK]

My procedure for a computer run MCRD Tier IV motor on my fancy cab'd 2555 turbo diesel is to turn the key on for about 10 seconds or so to preheat the chambers a little. With the throttle in idle, turn the key to start and get it to fire. The computer will bump up the RPMs into the 1K range for a few seconds, then idle back down. Once she settles at idle for a little bit, I bump it up to the 1350ish RPM for a while. At this point, open up the barn door, turn the blower on, drive her outside and let it warm like that for five minutes while I am getting other stuff ready. Jump in, crank her up around 2K, and slowly drive to where I feel like blowing the snow to smitherinies that day. Each and every different tractor has it's little starting quirks, and you have to learn what it likes. Like back when we had carburated ' automatic ' choked vehicles, back when you just did not jump into a car, turn the key, and she would immediately fire up/purr like a kitten.

 

[doneill127]

AchingBack, my Mahindra manual says the same as yours, start at idle and that’s what i’ve been doing. However after getting 3 different Mitsubishi SL3/SL4 manuals, Services, Maintenance and Operation that are extremely detailed and well written it’s the Mahindra manual I question. It tends to be pretty basic and lacks a lot of detail. If you’d like copies of the manuals I think I can attach them in a pm or I can I try and find the links to where I found them

Pumpguy, don’t know how to tell if it’s inline or rotary, the only other info in the manual other then settings is under type it’s listed as PFR. Seeing that the manual says to go to full throttle prior to starting makes me think it’s rotary.

And lastly I’m not trying to start a debate on which is right or wrong. I’m was trying to clear up conflicting information between the tractors OEM and the Engine OEM.