Cold weather starting procedure

[KiotiJohn]

When I rewrote one of the Kioti manuals, I believe it stated to set the throttle at about half max RPM, turn the key to glow (which is about 8 seconds) and then start. Always allow the tractor to warm for at least 5 minutes, and in very cold weather, 10 is better.
If the tractor doesn't start right quick, hit the glow plugs again for another 8-10 seconds rather than continuing to just turn the key.
You may notice a little more smoke on startup in cold temps, but that's not a problem unless it's black smoke.
If your tractor ignition is like mine, there is a glow plug setting when you first turn the key to "on," and then between on and crank you can manually run the plugs. Some tractors have a glow plug setting opposite the crank position to use manually.
It's best to get the RPM up from the start just as in your auto to get the oil flowing quickly.
John

 

[psuedofarmer]

this winter i've been using the tractor alot (50+ hrs so far this winter). no trouble starting - i use the procedure outlined in the manual (and in this thread). i don't use a block heater.

this has me wondering now that i'm using it more often this winter.. i run synthetic in all my vehicles and it never occurred to me to run it in the tractor.

if i'm going to run the tractor more in the winter (plowing .5 mile driveway), does it make sense to run synthetic now that the tractor is broken in (400+ hrs)?

i read that switching to synthetic in vehicles with high mileage may cause some leaks due to the change in viscosity.

pf

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

<font color="blue"> If i'm going to run the tractor more in the winter (plowing .5 mile driveway), does it make sense to run synthetic now that the tractor is broken in (400+ hrs)?</font>

Short answer: Yes. Your engine is quite well broken in, and I believe that the superior characteristics of synthetics in cold weather operation, and resultant reduced engine and starter wear, will more than make up for the extra expense of the oil. Seems the jury is still out on whether or not you even need to break in an engine on dino oil before switching to synthetics, but I still prefer to do it. I changed to synthetics after 500 hours, but I waited that long mainly because that's how long it took me to come to my senses, with the able assistance of Skypup, GSXR100 and many others who made too much sense for me to ignore the obvious any longer. Maybe 50 or 100 hours on dino before switching would be "optimal", I really don't know. Just sounds about right.

<font color="blue"> I read that switching to synthetic in vehicles with high mileage may cause some leaks due to the change in viscosity. </font>

My take on the leakage thing is that if your seals and gaskets are in good shape, as yours should be, then they will probably not leak. The leakage "thing", in my opinion, has little or nothing to do with the viscosity of the oil, but rather, with one of the characteristics of synthetics. They are very good at dissolving carbon build-up and sludge of all descriptions, including organic deposits that might be providing a temporary seal to marginally-functioning seals and gaskets, much the same way that Bars-leaks or other cooling system leak-stoppers work. Dissolve the gunk that is temporarily plugging a leak, and the leak will start up again. Don't blame the oil, blame the faulty gasket or seal. Replace them if you start getting leaks after switching to a synthetic, and the leaks will stop. YMMV.

 

[psuedofarmer]

thanks for the reply CT_Tree_Guy <font color="green">incidently, i was looking for info on root grapples - thought i ran across your name as an owner of a grapple(?) </font>

i'll switch to synthetic shortly.. the benefits for cold starting are well documented, besides, i've run new vehicles (and switched older vehicles) with synthetics and like the results.

pf

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

pf -

Yep, I'm into grapples. Here are some threads that might be of interest:

5030 "skidder" pics - the "tree-bota" in action

To grapple or to not grapple...

Remotes and Top and Tilt?

The last thread contains a rousing discussion on the relative merits of conventional remotes vs. electric/hydraulic solenoids and electrical controls (joysticks, buttons, switches) to control attachments of all types, including grapples.

Again, YMMV.

 

[psuedofarmer]

excellent. my apologies for hijacking the thread - thanks for the grapple leads.

pf