Compact Hydraulic Valve

[kennyd]

I have been wanting to add rear remotes to my tractor for a long time, with the intent of getting/making a dumping trailer, and a hydraulic top link.
The problem has been finding a valve that is small enough to fit on a SCUT.
Today the new Surplus Center catalog show up in the mail, and there is was!
Here is the LINK to the valve. A very good deal I think.
And I have one on the way! I will have to fab up the mount and some handles (ideas? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif), but it should be a fun project.

 

[MadReferee]

The specs don't list power beyond capability. I am not sure on how the hydraulics work on a JD but I'll bet you need a PB sleeve for that valve.

Another option is the Eaton-Cessna 30920 series valve. It comes as 1, 2 or 3 spools, has power beyond capability and is compact at 6.75" x 6" x 2" for the 3 spool valve and 6.75" x 4.75" x 2" for a 2 spool valve. You can find the 2-spool valve HERE and the 3-spool valve HERE. And they come complete with handles.

The Eaton-Cessna valves are rated at 5 gpm which is fine for most small CUTs. I know of at least 1 TBNer who has the 3-spool valve on his Kubota B2410 (I made the mouniting bracket for it) and that is Tim who goes by 8561.

 

[kennyd]

Thanks Mad, I thought of the PB also. But I do not think I will need it, please help me with this logic:
The PB option from JD provides a "loop" at the rear of the tractor for a BH or logsplitter as you well know...Why can't I just run the "loop" through the Valve? I know this would eliminate the possibility of another valve, but I would not need more the 2 in the rear. I already have a electric diverter on the FEL for my plow future grapple.
Sound doable /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif?

I looked long and hard at the Eaton valves, But my specs say my hydraulic flow is 5.1GPM (at the SCV's, not including steering), and I am not comfortable being just over the max flow rate of the valve. This other valve flows 10 GPM, so should have less heat buildup at the valve.

Or is my logic totally screwed up like my wife always say it is /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Sound doable ? )</font>

Yes.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I looked long and hard at the Eaton valves, But my specs say my hydraulic flow is 5.1GPM (at the SCV's, not including steering), and I am not comfortable being just over the max flow rate of the valve. This other valve flows 10 GPM, so should have less heat buildup at the valve.

Or is my logic totally screwed up like my wife always say it is ? )</font>

Nope. But I wouldn't worry about the heat generated. Most of those valves are under spec'ed anyway. Hose diameter would mean more to me than the valve's specs.

 

[kennyd]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Nope. But I wouldn't worry about the heat generated. Most of those valves are under spec'ed anyway. Hose diameter would mean more to me than the valve's specs.


)</font>

Thanks,
Oh well, At least I will have a float on one valve and get the pleasure /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif of making my own handles.

Thank you for your quick and helpfull responces to this and all other hydraulic questions, your knowledge is a real asset to TBN.

 

[8561]

If anyone is interested in seeing the Eaton valve mounted, here it is.

 

[8561]

It has a very small footprint.

 

[8561]

Last one.

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the pics Tim, that sure is a nice setup you and Mad made. Give's me lots of ideas!

 

[dullpain]

Where would one plumb in the control valves mentioned on a Kubota B2910 ? No FEL!

thanks

 

[MadReferee]

You have two choices. <ul type="square"> [*] First you can use the rear aux hydraulic block (you will need the $65 adapter). This is where most people connect to that have a FEL.
[*] Or you can use the front hydraulic block that the FEL connects to (you will need a different adapter and o-rings), but this will preclude you from having a FEL in the future. [/list] In both cases you will still need the return to tank line that connects to the transmission. Just remove the plug and screw in you hose.