The new rear suspension does a very good job. This is of course not a motocross suspension for jumping, but a suspension to improve traction, handling and comfort on uneven terrain, as well as to improve the ease of leaning the vehicle to turn like a motorcycle. It would have been easier to put on old snowmobile buggies, but they are very heavy, they do not allow the track to be tilted easily, the springs are stiff in T (I don't know who calibrated this ... ) and they do not support the track evenly over its entire length, which is important for maximum traction in all conditions. (there is a whole of 4 '' every 4 '', offset left to right otherwise they would lean on each other) These are aluminum scooter wheels, there were no wheels of snowmobiles in these dimensions at an affordable price. Despite the small bearings, they are double, maximum dynamic load of 720lbs, maximum RPM 34000 revolutions / min, no danger, the springs limit the individual load of the casters to approximately 30lbs per castor.
It floats on small obstacles, it is not like a tire or a slide suspension which must necessarily go up over the obstacle and fall back coated (the suspension absorbs the blow but never at 100%) whereas here it is. is the obstacle that fits into the track (about 3 rollers are compressed, while the other 8 are not compressed) for obstacles of 4 '' and less, the height of the vehicle does not change the height of the vehicle does not change hardly any, so you don't feel anything on the seat. Despite the front air suspension combined with the balloon tire inflated to only 3PSI, there is more backlash at the front than at the rear.
My main idea with this vehicle (much like my snowmobiles) is to be able to go places that I wouldn't dare to try with other vehicles, whatever the season.
Unlike a slider suspension (which is great when there is enough snow) almost all of the track's stud stays in contact with the ground, it's well away from the ground surface of a motorcycle tire. On a snowmobile, in early season conditions, on good climbs if there is a rock or a small tree trunk under the track, things start going backwards.
And on the way up, there is not a lot of weight on the front wheel, everything is on the track. The center of gravity is low, the track stretches very far behind the rider, so it doesn't tip back like an ATV or motorcycle could. I believe the angle and traction limit comes at the same time as the float carburetor which does not work through an angle if you go too slowly. So a longer track, a 2-stroke pump or electric to pass this course.
And for lateral inclinations, the downforce is only in the center of the track and in the center of the tires combined with the featherweight (a little less heavy than a competition motocross), it is very easy to hold the vehicle that one is sitting on it, standing, kneeling or lying next to it.
The handlebars and stabilizers often catch the trees when there is not 2 feet between the trees, hands a left right lean allows to pass. The stabilizers may seem superfluous, but they save a lot of effort at low speed in the ruff and when it starts backing up. It is just a matter of putting light pressure (the weight of the legs and boots)
On a motorcycle, when you put your foot on the ground suddenly, you take your weight off the seat, loss of Momentum, loss of traction. It would be difficult to slide his boot directly on the obstacle-ridden ground. The ideal would be to be a pro trail bike (they stay balanced in place, on a wheel!) But I am far from it. And you have to think that there are branches and pipes in the air, it would be difficult to stand on a motorcycle early on.

