Concrete entry ramps for garage

   / Concrete entry ramps for garage #11  
I left mine floating. it's 18' wide and comes out 4'. I just build a form to the existing slab from an 1 1/2" to 10". I elected to let it float in case it starts breaking it's easy enough to break it out and start over. If it's tied into the slab and the thin part starts cracking then you have real work to do. I used about 4" of #2 stone compacted, #4 wire mesh and loaded the form with concrete. I just floated the concrete and then went the 18' accross with a broom to give it a rough finish for traction. So far no problems, but like I said if it cracks, at least I won't have to bust it out of the slab to repair it.
 
   / Concrete entry ramps for garage #12  
5 years ago I poured a 6" slab, 8' long and 31' wide in front of my garage doors. I pitched mine about 2 - 3 inches, used rebar mesh and about a dozen steel fence posts I had laying around. I used 4000psi concrete with small aggregate and used a push broom to rough up the surface after I floated it. It isn't tied into my garage slab and there has been no settling or cracking. We typically see frost to 4'+.

After it cured I had a small seam between the new work and the old work, I filled the seam with 4 - 6 tubes of 35 year latex caulk to keep the water out and to prevent cracking due to freeze thaw cycles. I planned on pinning the apron slab to the garage slab, but ran out of time. Based on the performance over the past 5 years, I'd wouldn't change a thing.
 
   / Concrete entry ramps for garage
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks everyone for the response!! I have a 2' overhang so water will not be just pouring over the new seam , and the heaviest thing on the ramps will be truck and trailer backing up into it. I believe I will make the ramps 6" thick or so and add some sort of a thicker lip (maybe a foot thick or so. I will use the existing gravel as a base over the clay (this time compacted) I think I like the floating idea over the attached idea since it would be easier to repair/upgrade/do-over if it doesnt stay like I want. I am considering adding some apron as well to allow easier parking and some trailer manuevering room. The shop serves as a woodworking/metal fab- car repair/restoration-and storage building. When I built it I thought 30x60 with a half attic and vaulted ceiling for a 2 post car lift would be plenty of room, Now I wish I had made it twice as big. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Anyway thanks to everyone for the response, you have made the project plans seem much more plausable. BTW since this is a tractor related site the shop is also home for my 2004 New Holland TC40DA with all the goodies, and a Ferguson TO20
 

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