arsenix2001
Platinum Member
Im just going out on a limb here but I think they are drilling for the pole barn posts...
Concrete floor now or wait?
- Thread starter Gizmo2
- Start date
Im just going out on a limb here but I think they are drilling for the pole barn posts...
That would be correct, 17 holes. 4ft deep x 20" diameter. Until I saw your post I could not figure out what dstig1 was talking about. I see dstig1's point now but it just didn't click in the old head.
Thanks
Highbeam
Super Member
So I just built a pad for my new 30x60 pole barn. My pad is all fill since I find it pretty silly to dig a hole and put a building, especially a pole barn, into the hole. My building is on a slight slope just like the OP's and the fill "wedge" goes from 0" to about 30". A very important thing to do in this situation is to build the pad wider than your building, meaning, keep a level area outside of the poles for a good distance, in my case I went 10 feet beyond the building. This is to get good compaction aroudn the building since near the edge of the fill and certainly on the fill slope you won't get good compaction and the poles are using that material for lateral strength.
First thing I did was strip the sod. Can't tell if you did that. Then get inorganic fill dirt delivered or dug out and ready.
Then go rent a 3 ton vibratory roller. These things are great and only about 4 feet wide. With a roller like this you only need to grade each lift close and then the roller makes it all look pretty.
I then started spreading fill. One scoop at a time. Go easy, you only want about 8" of fill which will compact to less than 6". Then blade it smoothish with the boxscraper. Then compact it with the roller in both directions at least a couple of times. Moisture during compaction is important. Too wet is better than too dry. Mine was too wet at times which makes the roller do some funny stuff.
There is no difference between properly compacted fill and native ground. You can make fill dirt hard but you must do it properly. You can even have a company come and and test your soil for compaction if the risk warrants it.
My poles will be drilled deep. Deep enough to go through the fill and onto native ground just like the OP's. This means that the only risk with fill is the differential settlement breaking your slab. Is that a big deal? Really? Come on now, all concrete cracks. Good steel reinforcement will help prevent the cracks from seperating.
You can always pour more concrete on top of the settled concrete. You can always break it out and replace it. You will have to decide how many inches of settlement is too much.
To the OP: You've probably already built your building. Removal and replacement isn't an attractive option. If you can wait, fine, I don't think it will get you much if the roof is on. Your problem isn't settlement, it's differential settlement so expect to see the slab roll down where the fill is deepest. The back of the slab will settle more than the front. The building is bearing on the undisturbed earth so the building is fine. Worst case, you repour the slab if/when it gets bad enough. May not even need to remove the old slab, just pour a new level slab on top of the settled one.
Yes, you should have compacted it better. Too late for that now.
First thing I did was strip the sod. Can't tell if you did that. Then get inorganic fill dirt delivered or dug out and ready.
Then go rent a 3 ton vibratory roller. These things are great and only about 4 feet wide. With a roller like this you only need to grade each lift close and then the roller makes it all look pretty.
I then started spreading fill. One scoop at a time. Go easy, you only want about 8" of fill which will compact to less than 6". Then blade it smoothish with the boxscraper. Then compact it with the roller in both directions at least a couple of times. Moisture during compaction is important. Too wet is better than too dry. Mine was too wet at times which makes the roller do some funny stuff.
There is no difference between properly compacted fill and native ground. You can make fill dirt hard but you must do it properly. You can even have a company come and and test your soil for compaction if the risk warrants it.
My poles will be drilled deep. Deep enough to go through the fill and onto native ground just like the OP's. This means that the only risk with fill is the differential settlement breaking your slab. Is that a big deal? Really? Come on now, all concrete cracks. Good steel reinforcement will help prevent the cracks from seperating.
You can always pour more concrete on top of the settled concrete. You can always break it out and replace it. You will have to decide how many inches of settlement is too much.
To the OP: You've probably already built your building. Removal and replacement isn't an attractive option. If you can wait, fine, I don't think it will get you much if the roof is on. Your problem isn't settlement, it's differential settlement so expect to see the slab roll down where the fill is deepest. The back of the slab will settle more than the front. The building is bearing on the undisturbed earth so the building is fine. Worst case, you repour the slab if/when it gets bad enough. May not even need to remove the old slab, just pour a new level slab on top of the settled one.
Yes, you should have compacted it better. Too late for that now.
Highbeam,
Thanks, The fill is bank-run gravel unlike dirt or top soil it packs fairly fast. As far concrete cracking goes and your thoughts, I agree but waiting is not a problem either and who knows maybe I'll never put a concrete floor in. I have a 32' x 32' horse pole barn that has had a crusher-run floor for 25 years and I'm just fine with it. I am not one that is frivolous with money and never have been but I have to say, it ain't a problem if money or work can solve it. Not being arrogant just a fact.
Thanks, The fill is bank-run gravel unlike dirt or top soil it packs fairly fast. As far concrete cracking goes and your thoughts, I agree but waiting is not a problem either and who knows maybe I'll never put a concrete floor in. I have a 32' x 32' horse pole barn that has had a crusher-run floor for 25 years and I'm just fine with it. I am not one that is frivolous with money and never have been but I have to say, it ain't a problem if money or work can solve it. Not being arrogant just a fact.
dstig1
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Silly meThat would be correct, 17 holes. 4ft deep x 20" diameter. Until I saw your post I could not figure out what dstig1 was talking about. I see dstig1's point now but it just didn't click in the old head.
:ashamed:Silly me
You're cool!rswyan
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Not really ..... just get in there with your loader/box blade and pull out the fill where it's too deep .... then go rent a small vibratory roller and/or jumping jack ..... and slam it down
:Dual Drum - Articulated Walk Behind Roller
Rammer Tamper "Jumping Jack" 130lb Class
Regrade and then .... compact again ...
Fill material not moist enough ? .... and no water in the building ? (dunno ... but that sure looked like a frost-proof hydrant in one of them pics to me ...
)How about this: run a hose over to the building and give 'er a squirt as needed ...
My advice is get it done and don't put it off .... you never know - there may be a reason, come this winter, that it would be really, really nice to have it done ....
Signed,
The guy, who if he's lucky, might get the floor for one of the three bays in his polebarn poured before the snow flies .... five years after the barn went up ....
Egon
Epic Contributor
Now I get curious; one end well packed 30 inches deep, the other only a well packed 6 inches. Seems the load carrying capacity should be different between the two ends. Is that proper?
rswyan
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Assuming an undisturbed soil under all of the fill containing no organic matter (ie topsoil), and both depths of fill properly compacted ...... I would think ... not .... :confused2:Now I get curious; one end well packed 30 inches deep, the other only a well packed 6 inches. Seems the load carrying capacity should be different between the two ends. Is that proper?