Concrete foundation for shed

[TedLaRue]

By the way this is going in New Mexico. It is considered high desert at 7400ft.

Ohhhhh! Then definitely consider a reinforced footer/perimeter beam below the frost line.

By the way, 15 x 20 seems an odd size considering that most dimensions in the USA are multiples of 16" (e.g. 4'x8' plywood sheathing, and also 8"x16" concrete blocks). Perhaps 16' x 20' as dimensions for the outside edges of your framing would be a better choice? or even 16' x 24' so you can run a 30" wide workbench 8' down the long side, and put 12" wide shelves floor to ceiling along the rest of it. Drool drool.....

 

[UpToNoGood]

15x20 or 16x20 doesn't matter to me. I need to measure the bricks and work from there. I will be dry stacking them so I need to figure what would fit with the least cutting. I want the two rows of bricks to keep the wood off the ground. So if I go 16x20 the shed will only be 16x16 and the extra concrete will be a porch with roof over top. I want to use that area to hoist up Elk for skinning and it will keep them out of the sun/weather as well. I have a reason for everything and it will all work out in the end.

BTW just to prove my point I work on computers for a living and I built a pergola for my house and never had any of the plans on paper. My wife went nuts wanting to know if it was going to work or not. I had never did anything like that before and I think it turned out well. Look for your self.

 

[TedLaRue]

UpToNoGood, I could tell from your original post that you were the kind of guy to think things through and plan ahead!

Sometimes our replies are aimed at the general public who might be reading this thread a year from now, so please don't take it personally if we give an answer to a "dumb" question which is something you already know.

For what it's worth, I teach math and computer science at our local university, but I'm also up to no good (without pay!) during the summer, building things and tearing up things.

If you're planning to lay up the blocks dry, then be aware that a 16" block is actually 15-5/8" long to allow for a 3/8" mortar joint. Be sure to consider this in your plans or when you lay the blocks dry or mortared.

 

[UpToNoGood]

I am not taking any of this personal. I soak all this up like a sponge trying to learn as much as I can before doing anything. I am the "Measure twice cut once guy".

As for the blocks I have learned a lot here DryStacked Surface Bonded Home Construction Sequence with Dry Stacked Block Walls and only going two rows I don't think I can fubar that up.

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[BoFuller]

15x20 or 16x20 doesn't matter to me. I need to measure the bricks and work from there. I will be dry stacking them so I need to figure what would fit with the least cutting. I want the two rows of bricks to keep the wood off the ground. So if I go 16x20 the shed will only be 16x16 and the extra concrete will be a porch with roof over top. I want to use that area to hoist up Elk for skinning and it will keep them out of the sun/weather as well. I have a reason for everything and it will all work out in the end.

BTW just to prove my point I work on computers for a living and I built a pergola for my house and never had any of the plans on paper. My wife went nuts wanting to know if it was going to work or not. I had never did anything like that before and I think it turned out well. Look for your self.

Nice work.

 

[BoFuller]

I am not taking any of this personal. I soak all this up like a sponge trying to learn as much as I can before doing anything. I am the "Measure twice cut once guy".

As for the blocks I have learned a lot here DryStacked Surface Bonded Home Construction Sequence with Dry Stacked Block Walls and only going two rows I don't think I can fubar that up.

Thanks for all the help so far.

"fubar" - I haven't heard that term for a long time. It's bringing a chuckle or two. Thanks for making my day. :thumbsup:

 

[KennyG]

One option you might want to check with the local concrete guys is fiberglas reinforcement. The fibers are mixed and poured with the concrete. It avoids the hassle of rebar placement and the movement that often comes with wire mesh. The fibers aren't as strong as steel which means you have to be careful using it for slabs exposed to the sun but for a floor in a building it works great.

I have a floating slab with fiberglas in Michigan that was poured 12 years ago and it doesn't have a single crack.

 

[Cat_Driver]

One option you might want to check with the local concrete guys is fiberglas reinforcement. The fibers are mixed and poured with the concrete. It avoids the hassle of rebar placement and the movement that often comes with wire mesh. The fibers aren't as strong as steel which means you have to be careful using it for slabs exposed to the sun but for a floor in a building it works great.

I have a floating slab with fiberglas in Michigan that was poured 12 years ago and it doesn't have a single crack.

x2 on the fiberglass reinforcement, or you can use stainless steel also. I laid a slab on beach sand with fiberglass reinforcement and drive 10K tractors on it and never a crack.

I think it cost me under $20.00 to add it to the load of concrete.

Definitely look up fiber reinforcement for concrete you will get a great education on how strong it makes concrete.

 

[Deere Dude]

Something I would consider would be to cement into the floor some threaded rod to go up through the blocks in order to bolt the wood to it. At least the wall wouldn't slide off the blocks in a slight wind. Also I would mortar between all the blocks to keep any little critters out and also fill a hole to the top in the concrete blocks with concrete, maybe every 4 feet. Doing those things will really sturdy the blocks up. Just my 2c :thumbsup:

 

[beeforty]

Nice Pergola:thumbsup: Make sure you have a 33' tape measure so that you can measure corner to corner for squareness. A 30' isn't long enough for your size. That and make sure your sides are level or else your walls start leaning and it only gets worse when you get to doing the roof. I built on a slab your size that was poured by some else and it was racked 11" out of square, talk about fudging to make it fit:confused2: