Gary Fowler
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 23, 2008
- Messages
- 11,917
- Location
- Bismarck Arkansas
- Tractor
- 2009 Kubota RTV 900, 2009 Kubota B26 TLB & 2010 model LS P7010
All good advice, but don't forget to thicken the edge to about 12" D x12"W where you plan to drive up on the slab (or all the way around the perimeter). Add some extra rebar in that thickened edge shaped to contour with the ground slope. Most times this thickened edge is 45 degree slope from inside slab to the outside where it will be 90 degrees up on the outside edge. This will give the edge more strength to help in reducing stress on the slab when driving heavy machinery up onto it.
By using 2x6 for forming, you would end with a 5"-5 1/2" slab which will be more than plenty for strength.
I would also think about leaving at least some of the slope so the slab drains well from water or snow melt. You may want to install a drain channel at the low end to direct the run off away from the slab. This could be a 3-4" wide x 2" deep and might be made by just embedding a 2x4 (removed after concrete is set up) in the edge of the slab apron. You WILL want a parking apron in front of the slab so likely you should put this into your concrete plans now so you can get it done now rather than wishing for it all the time later.
By using 2x6 for forming, you would end with a 5"-5 1/2" slab which will be more than plenty for strength.
I would also think about leaving at least some of the slope so the slab drains well from water or snow melt. You may want to install a drain channel at the low end to direct the run off away from the slab. This could be a 3-4" wide x 2" deep and might be made by just embedding a 2x4 (removed after concrete is set up) in the edge of the slab apron. You WILL want a parking apron in front of the slab so likely you should put this into your concrete plans now so you can get it done now rather than wishing for it all the time later.