About to do a 30x40 slab at 4in of thickness; not sure what the PSI rating of that will be. I imagine that when concrete is poured, it is thinner in some areas, and thicker in others. If I eventually want to put a 2 post lift in, the consensus is to go at least 5in in thickness on the slab. However, the company that is building the pole barn says that they just pour a footer in the specific area that you want your lift. So my question is this: should I just do the entire slab in 5in for building integrity, or are the footers enough? I've about maxed my budget with a 30x50x14, so I'm looking to get help where I can.
Concrete slab thickness vs.footers
- Thread starter USAFpj
- Start date
- Views: 3935
GPintheMitten
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 3,291
- Location
- Flushing, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 with BH65 backhoe, Ford 2N
What are you storing and driving in the barn? How heavy?
If you can identify now where your future lift would be I would go with thicker footings for that at specific area. You also might want to go thicker on the perimeter.
If you can identify now where your future lift would be I would go with thicker footings for that at specific area. You also might want to go thicker on the perimeter.
flusher
Super Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2005
- Messages
- 7,555
- Location
- Sacramento
- Tractor
- Getting old. Sold the ranch. Sold the tractors. Moved back to the city.
Pour 4" thick 4000 psi concrete, #4 rebar grid on 24" centers, 2" dobies to center the rebar vertically.
Use steel plates (24"x24" x 1" thick) under your lift columns to spread the load.
Good luck
Use steel plates (24"x24" x 1" thick) under your lift columns to spread the load.
Good luck
Wa11banger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2013
- Messages
- 302
- Location
- Huntsville Al
- Tractor
- Foton FT404 w/Koyker 160 FEL and a Dig-It Towable Backhoe
"(24"x24" x 1" thick)"
Flusher im not the original poster but I have a 4" thick already and was getting ready to do a very expensive retrofit. This will save me a ton of money
Flusher im not the original poster but I have a 4" thick already and was getting ready to do a very expensive retrofit. This will save me a ton of money
GPintheMitten
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 3,291
- Location
- Flushing, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 with BH65 backhoe, Ford 2N
That sounds like a good plan.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Given that concrete is running about a hundred bucks a yard, it's really cheap to dig a 2x2 foot footing under the place where the lift will be installed. If you have good soil, then a foot deep below the bottom of the pad should be plenty. If you have sand or other poor soils, then you really need to talk to a soils engineer because the variables make impossible for anybody who does not know your soil to be able to give good advice.
/pine
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2009
- Messages
- 12,450
Agree about what (earth) the concrete is sitting on...
Also, if the steel plate has to be purchased new...it's going to run close to $200 for each plate...hardly cheaper than concrete and rebar...
Also, if the steel plate has to be purchased new...it's going to run close to $200 for each plate...hardly cheaper than concrete and rebar...
Wa11banger
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2013
- Messages
- 302
- Location
- Huntsville Al
- Tractor
- Foton FT404 w/Koyker 160 FEL and a Dig-It Towable Backhoe
but in my case cutting out a large section, reinforcing it to tie it back in and digging it out is way more expensive than the plate we are discussing.. For the OP it is sound advise.
/pine
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2009
- Messages
- 12,450
I disagree...as long as the underlying strata is satisfactory and any disturbed earth is compacted a bell type footing under the support columns is easily the most cost efficient way to go...it is a tried and method that is standard in commercial building applications...
