Connecting up the hydraulics

[Builder]

Great job :thumbsup:

 

[SpudHauler]

You could cut more teeth in the chute base, like all the way around.

And when you started getting snow in the back of your neck, you would know you rotated the chute too far. :laughing::laughing::laughing:

But soon or later someone would over rotate and ruin the lines on the deflector hydraulics.

It's easy when you do things for yourself. It's everyone else we have to protect from themselves.

Your rear connects look like a factory setup. Great job!

 

[k0ua]

Excuse me for being green about hydraulics, and possible blaspheming, but would it not make a lot more sense for the chute controls to be electric? it would not take all that much for the chute rotation motor to be electric, and geared down some to rotate maybe at 10 rpm, then limit switches would be an easy thing to incorporate into the motor/housing. Much like an antenna rotor is done? Then you would not have all that power that is capable of crushing things to operate a piece of sheet metal.. Am I crazy here? Looks like maybe the same for the chute deflection, a linear motor kinda like and electric window/motor/crank. Again I may be way off base here, but the hydraulics seem way overkill for this application, I realize this is how it is done, but why? and back to the original problem of the over-travel of the chute deflector, Ok we put some restrictor needle valves in the line, and this slows down the flow, but it still dont fix the problem of the end of rotation, there needs to be a way of bypassing the fluid if some "uneducated" (like me) person were to lay on the control valve and keep giveing it pressure when it has reached the end of rotation, and wrecking something.
Please help me understand
James K0UA

 

[ctgoldwing]

Excuse me for being green about hydraulics, and possible blaspheming, but would it not make a lot more sense for the chute controls to be electric? it would not take all that much for the chute rotation motor to be electric, and geared down some to rotate maybe at 10 rpm, then limit switches would be an easy thing to incorporate into the motor/housing. Much like an antenna rotor is done? Then you would not have all that power that is capable of crushing things to operate a piece of sheet metal.. Am I crazy here? Looks like maybe the same for the chute deflection, a linear motor kinda like and electric window/motor/crank. Again I may be way off base here, but the hydraulics seem way overkill for this application, I realize this is how it is done, but why? and back to the original problem of the over-travel of the chute deflector, Ok we put some restrictor needle valves in the line, and this slows down the flow, but it still dont fix the problem of the end of rotation, there needs to be a way of bypassing the fluid if some "uneducated" (like me) person were to lay on the control valve and keep giveing it pressure when it has reached the end of rotation, and wrecking something.
Please help me understand
James K0UA

Hey Jim

Well I agree with you that it would be easier for an electric control. The only issue I see is the snow / ice build up interferring with the limits. Then again you still have the issue of the chute difflector. A hyrdraulic piston is pretty simple compared to what you would have to do to get straight line motion and still have it reliable in pretty horrible conditions.

The bottom line was this blower that I picked up on Craigslist came with hydraulics. My decision was made for me

k1tgx

 

[Lunker]

Well the Normand blower is all set now

I needed the hydraulics hooked up to control the chute rotation (hyd motor) and deflector (hyd piston).

So first the dual valves were mounted on the right rear fender.

Then the line that fed the backhoe was disconnected at the pump and fed to the valves. The discharge side of the valves now feed the backhoe.

A small plate was clamped to the ROPS and the 2 pairs of control lines were routed through there.

Here are a couple more shots of the finished product. The best part is it works!

Oh yeah, its snowing now :thumbsup:

Hi -
Those valves look nice what model,brand are they? I would like to do something similar w/my tractor..

Thanks

-Nick

 

[JMynes]

Excuse me for being green about hydraulics, and possible blaspheming, but would it not make a lot more sense for the chute controls to be electric? it would not take all that much for the chute rotation motor to be electric, and geared down some to rotate maybe at 10 rpm, then limit switches would be an easy thing to incorporate into the motor/housing. Much like an antenna rotor is done? Then you would not have all that power that is capable of crushing things to operate a piece of sheet metal.. Am I crazy here? Looks like maybe the same for the chute deflection, a linear motor kinda like and electric window/motor/crank. Again I may be way off base here, but the hydraulics seem way overkill for this application, I realize this is how it is done, but why? and back to the original problem of the over-travel of the chute deflector, Ok we put some restrictor needle valves in the line, and this slows down the flow, but it still dont fix the problem of the end of rotation, there needs to be a way of bypassing the fluid if some "uneducated" (like me) person were to lay on the control valve and keep giveing it pressure when it has reached the end of rotation, and wrecking something.
Please help me understand
James K0UA

I did electric last year. Early pics are here:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...ctric-chute-motor-snowblower.html#post1733983
It worked great all last season, and again today. The linear actuator for spout tilt has limit switches built in, rotation has none. I just have to let off the switch.
Nothing against hydraulics, in fact, great job ctgoldwing, it looks great! Electric was more convenient (easier) for me.

 

[k0ua]

Hey Jim

Well I agree with you that it would be easier for an electric control. The only issue I see is the snow / ice build up interferring with the limits. Then again you still have the issue of the chute difflector. A hyrdraulic piston is pretty simple compared to what you would have to do to get straight line motion and still have it reliable in pretty horrible conditions.

The bottom line was this blower that I picked up on Craigslist came with hydraulics. My decision was made for me

k1tgx

Thanks, K1tgx for the explaination, on the hydraulic "choice" but looks like I am not "crazy" judging by the other post using the linear actuator, and the windshield wiper motor. I guess one reason I gravitate toward the electrical solution instead of a hydraulic one is my background, it is what I know and understand best. Thanks again for the reply
James K0UA

 

[SpudHauler]

New idea for chute. Cut more teeth so that chute will rotate enough that the snow would be shooting by either of your shoulders if you dared turn it that far. Then remove say the last two teeth before it was able to turn that far. That should give you enough rotation and if you did go too far the motor would disengage on the area where you removed the teeth. To reengage simply rotate the chute back by hand to the point the gears engage. And away you go. Old chutes had a big handle extending towards the tractor for rotating them left or right, a small handle in the right location on the chute could help in getting it turned so the gear re-engaged.