consensus on rotella t

[gsxr1100]

The stop and go is a killer (stressful) on oil, so to speak. Ha, I am not a professionl on oil either; till learning here. If your oil does not have a good additive package it will break down quick or quicker then others. It might still protect “ok” but TBN could be very low, high wear numbers, high OXD and NOX, high fuel, high water, etc. If testing for TAN, it better below the TBN #. If not, you got problems.

My thinking is to do (1) oil test for around $15. Yup it is gonna cost approx $15. Once you get the results back, see how it does. If good see what the number are and maybe you can go longer with same oil. If not, see what areas are high/low.

The thing that somewhat bothers me is the Mobil does not condone extended oil changes anymore. So I do not know if that will be an issue down the road. Maybe, maybe not.

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What is dino oil )</font>

You know.. 50 million year old crushed and 'aged to perfection' dinosaurs and prehistoric plants! ( No not really... we refer to naturally occouring non synthetic oils as dino oils.. )

Soundguy

 

[cowboydoc]

<font color="red">Mobil does not condone extended oil changes anymore </font>

Neither do any of the tractor or vehicle mfg. If you have an issue with the engine no matter how good your argument good luck trying to get warranty work done.

 

[teddydo]

Thank you Sound guy I should have know that. My thinking on the extended changes for the pick up and the not so extended changes in the tractor is that the pick up is running long enough to at least evaporate the moisture from my crank case if not some of the blow by to. The tractor usually does not get ran over an hour or two at a time, can't get free long enough to play all I want. But before syn came out I used Castrol 10 w 30 and changed on a 5k mile interval, I got 300k trouble free miles on my Toyotas back then even. I save a little work and some filters with the extened changes and down deep inside I think the gas milage is at least a little better although I don't have the data to prove it. If it's slicker then my timing belt is going to last longer too. I used Castrol syn until everybody on there said it wasn't really syn so I switched to mobile 1. This Rotella might be good for the Toyota pick up too, it's sure cheaper. The parts man really likes Valvoline. When the weather permits I have got to change my tranny fluid and antifreeze and as much break fluid as I can draw out. I reallly fell like this maintiance pays me back in repair bills, about all I buy is tires, brakes belts and hoses. Thanks to all......teddy

 

[gsxr1100]

Sure because most time people shop on price and price alone; hence they are putting in the cheapest oil around. I have never ever had an issue with any oil and on any duration. Problems with oil? If you have problems, not buying cheap oil! LOL. But then again, people doing extended drains need to comprehend what they are doing. It is just not fill and forget.

I have done extended oil drains for over 8-years and never had any warranty issues at all. You must have bad dealers or something.


Oh, please post some oil tests from a Kubota or car since I would love to see some... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I bet my car with over 12K miles on (1) oil change have better results! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Bird]

I've never had a lubrication related engine problem, but just what Cowboydoc said is the reason I stay with the real oil instead of synthetic and change it more frequently. The last time I checked, GM, Ford, and Chrysler all said synthetic was fine, but to still change oil on the same frequency as the non-synthetic. So I saw no reason to use synthetic and take a chance on needing warranty work and being turned down.

 

[SkyPup]

Bird, we've got two Volkswagen Direct Injection 1.9 liter turbocharged (Garrett VNT-17 turbocompressor rated at 225,000rpms) that are each six years old and driven hard (still return 45 mpg day in and day out). One has 125,000 miles on it and the other 180,000 miles. These are NOT your grandfathers diesel engines as they redline at 5,200rpm and see 4,000+rpms every single day.

Using only the Group 4 Amsoil Full Synthetic 10W-40 and 10,000 mile change outs (couple of times we went out to 20,000 miles per change out based on repeated oil analysis, but we ultimately learned that 10,000 miles on a full synthetic was always okay from all the oil analysis).

Results are, no leaks, no turbocompressor failure, no discernable upper cam wear with the micrometer, compression ratios >475psi in all cylinders and absolutely ZERO oil consumption with 10,000 mile changes and going like gangbusters!

Could easily go to 20,000 miles on the Amsoil Group 4 Full Synthetic and then only would be limited by the concentration of soot, not oxidation or nitration or TBN depletion.


Sure does beat any dino oil anywhere in the world. It truly is amazing to run these high speed diesels for so long all the time with zero oil consumption all these years.

Real Full Group 4 synthetics sure are great!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

That's why we use them in all our tractors as well. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[gsxr1100]

This issue has been discussed time and time again. The only way there are going to prove it was an oil related issue is by oil analysis.

The manufacures stay away from it since many driver can't even put air in tires, let alone extended oil intervals.

I even emailed Amsoil on this issue and the manfacture has to keep the warrenty.

 

[SkyPup]

Yeah, it was just like Soundguy stated earlier, the majority of people operating diesels are all junior high school dropouts, drunks, and dopers -> no wonder they cannot figure it out!

 

[gsxr1100]

I would not put it that way since I would get my hands slapped by TBN mods, but it just seems like old habbits take along time to break.

I will say this, if you think doing short drains benefits anything, let see some oil test results? Anyone, Bueller....Bueller....