Buying Advice Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions

   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #41  
As MossRoad mentioned, the minimum height adjustment is straightforward. If you see something coming that you need a boost for, you can lift the deck. In practice, I suspect you will set it once and forget it.

Once, I tried to inflate my front "pneumatic" wheels, only to discover that they were foam filled, which is why they had never gone soft...

Looking at recent photos, I think that the factory brush cutter design has some recent tweaks in the design that make it better and the lift safer.

Most of the PT brush cutters have, or used to have, exposed blades at the front and rear, so adding chains involves lengthening the deck fore/aft. Having the blades stick out in front is nice in that you can use it to nibble at a largish tree. However, the cutter will throw material a long way forward. I mow in a chainsaw helmet to protect my face from flying debris, and I try to have bystanders several hundred feet away.

I know several of us have thought about adding a push bar 18-24" ahead of the wheels, and about as high to push over heavy brush. Again, in practice, it hasn't been enough of an issue to warrant it for me, as I can push the brush cutter over 8' high tangles of three to four inch diameter poison oak stems. They are tougher than honeysuckle, so you should be OK.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #42  
My brush hog has chain links to help minimize thrown objects but they do not stop very heavy objects like a rocks and broken blades.

BushHog_2931.jpg

Ken
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions
  • Thread Starter
#43  
,,, as I can push the brush cutter over 8' high tangles of three to four inch diameter poison oak stems.

How do you handle the urushiol on the cutter when servicing?

I am very sensitive to it, have a lot of poison ivy on the property, so I will be getting into it.

I was thinking a very thorough power washing, wipe down with mineral spirits, and even then long sleeves and gloves.....
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #44  
Is it potentially an issue even cutting up the ivy with the brush hog if one is overly sensitive?

Ken
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #45  
It is best to cut poison ivy and oak back during the winter, if possible, when the leaves are off and the sap is down... This also gives you a much clearer view of obstacles such as rocks, stumps, etc. I try to clear new areas in the winter, then simply maintain them in the summer. That way, I know what's hidden in there. If I must cut unexplored areas, I like to hold the brushcutter up a foot or so off the ground, drive forward - then drop it and back out. Again, this lets me discover the rocks, stumps, etc. before running over them.

I too, am quite allergic, and simply wear jeans, long sleeved shirts and gloves. Then, a good soapy shower as soon as I was finished.

I've never had an issue with getting it on me from handling/working on the brush cutter. The other things I chop with it seem to scrub it clean enough to dilute the oils, I guess.
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #46  
Waiting until winter is an excellent idea. So far, I am not allergic. When I was a kid and in the boy scouts, some kids accidentally threw some wood with poison ivy in it onto the fire. Several that were there with me had to be rushed to the hospital because of the reaction in their airways.

Ken
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #47  
I thought poison ivy was bad. Then I moved west and discovered poison oak. T-ball to the majors.

I wait until it is dry. I put on sunscreen or Technu, wear a respirator, the chainsaw helmet and face guard, leather gloves, long sleeves, long pants inside rubber boots and an overall on top of the boots and clothing. I mow it with the brush cutter, and come back in and get a shower.

The best thing for poison oak is to lift the roots out with pallet forks, let it dry for six months and mow it when it is very dead. For some reason, it is very intolerant of root damage.

All the best, Peter
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #48  
I've never seen poison oak and never want to from what I hear. I am somewhat allergic to poison ivy, but not much, really. I had it many, many times as a kid, but never more than a rash in one or two places. Neither did my father, until he was well into his 50's... then he got it internally somehow and it was everywhere for several weeks. He looked awful. Felt awful, too. YIKES! Then he'd get it pretty bad almost every year after that when doing leaves in the fall.

I have to say, I handle it quite frequently when doing firewood. Almost every locust tree in my forest has poison ivy growing up it. I chainsaw right through the stuff and leave the vines on the pieces. I handle it when I split it and even when I burn it. I almost always wear gloves, but I can't remember the last time I had more than 3-4 bumps from it in the last 6 years.
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #49  
Just my $0.02, but I'd rip the vines off, either when you fell the tree, or before. Continued rexposure is probably not going to be beneficial in the long run.

All the best,

Peter
 
   / Considering Power Trac: Slopes and other questions #50  
They're kind of huge and I can't rip them off until they sit on the ground for a year or so. Once the bark loosens up, they come off fairly easily.

Here's a pretty good example of what I'm dealing with. 2 minute video shows a typical locust tree that I harvest with vines...

 
 
Top