Constantly flat front tire.

   / Constantly flat front tire.
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Hi Dave. I seriously thought about doing just that, but I had a few free minutes after lunch today and took them in for tubes. Total will be about $50.

And if the tubes do not work out I will try the bead sealer and all that but not until I get the proper tire tools. Using the wrong tools is part of the reason the bead is in such bad shape.

Also, for clarification, when I said I drove the tire off the rim, I did not mean totally off the rim, just that the bead was broken loose on both sides of the rim. I know that isn't good for them but I still think most of the damage was done by me trying to pull the tire all the way off the rim and then getting it back on again. A crow bar and cat claw (nail puller) just don't work very well.
 
   / Constantly flat front tire. #33  
I think what Eddie meant was that before foam he kept them at 35psi so the ride would not be much different. I have a Yanmar YMG2000D and run foam in the front tires. I kept getting flats and got tired of fixing the them. It is pretty expensive and they go by the volume for pricing. I have a tiny backhoe and wanted to foam the fronts but price kept me from doing that. Got a brother-in-law deal on Yanmar set. I really can't tell any difference in ride. big dan
 
   / Constantly flat front tire. #34  
I got tubes in front and tubless rears, R-1's all the way around. A flat back in the woods is bad news for me. I lose all my fluid, so I went the Hydro Seal route, pricey but worth every cent.
 
   / Constantly flat front tire. #35  
If you do buy some tire irons, (great investment by the way), make sure you get 3 instead of 2. I got 2 originally and after a couple tires went back and got one more iron...it made working on the tires a lot easier.
 
   / Constantly flat front tire.
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Good advice Dave, makes sense. I guess I should also invest in some patch kits and maybe a spare tube or two.

Just picked up the tires from the tire place. They have a good many chalk marks on them. Wonder if that's where they found stuff stuck in the tire? If so, that does not bode well for tubes. :eek:
 
   / Constantly flat front tire. #37  
if it was a good store, the tire man ran his hand around the inside of the casing and removed any debri, and if it was a real good store.. they stuck a patch over the hole on the casing, on the inside. and if it was a great store.. they reccomended a liner or boot.

yep.. a tire iron or two.. at least one with a spoon, one flat, and one with a bead hook is good.. a valve core tool, and a valve stem fishing tool. the patch kit and spare tube are a good idea.. don't buy big cans of rummer cement.. get small tubes.. use alot and toss the tube.. use a new one each repair.

A nice tire hammer one side sledge, one side wedge will help break tough beads.

in a pinch, on a stubborn tire, use a pair of vice grips on the rim as a 'stop; for your iron, and then use yer foot to hold that iron.. use another iron or two to walk the tire around the rim.. it's the redneck way.. but on some tough tires ( especially the smaller ones! ) it helps

soundguy
 
   / Constantly flat front tire. #39  
Soundguy...I don't know why I never thought of using vise grips along the rim. I wished I had known that a few tires ago! That sure would have made things easier. Using the vise grips means I don't need that third hand I had been wishing for...And less use of your knees.

FWJ...I had used a 6 foot long 2x6 lying on a tire to break a stubborn bead. I drive my PU truck slowly up the plank to pop the bead loose. Pretty redneck...
 
   / Constantly flat front tire.
  • Thread Starter
#40  
in a pinch, on a stubborn tire, use a pair of vice grips on the rim as a 'stop; for your iron, and then use yer foot to hold that iron.. use another iron or two to walk the tire around the rim.. it's the redneck way.. but on some tough tires ( especially the smaller ones! ) it helps

soundguy

Great tip. Its the kind of thing you smack yourself in the head and wonder why you didn't think of it yourself after flopping around fighting with a tire.

So far, breaking the bead has not been too much of a problem on these fronts. I haven't had a flat on the rears yet. And, like I say, my neighbor down the road has all the bigger tools for working on the rears.

Probably my biggest problem with the fronts was getting the bead to seat back up. Ratchet straps, sometimes 2 at a time, are often necessary. I'm assuming that won't be a problem now that I've got tubes. Anyway, great advice all around guys.

I figured the tire man must have checked the inside of the tires and pulled out any thorns or nails or whatever. Don't know if he patched inside. The first thing I'll do if I start getting popped tubes is add a boot. I think with the right tools I can do all this myself from now on.......well, I was doing it myself before too, now I should be able to do it correctly anyway.:D

I looked at the tires real close today. Even though they've got a good bit of tread left on them, they are really beat up. Lots of slices. Lots of little chunks missing and even some cracking. They've been abused and have always been outdoors and from what I've read, they're considered light duty/ low price. When its time for new fronts I'll probably get something a good bit heavier duty.
 

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