Container Weld Shop build -
- Thread starter BukitCase
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("I gave up tryin' to figger THAT part out for the 1 ton version I'll be doing, so I just planned on TWO trolleys - one centered over each pair of mounting holes on the hoist - that way there'll be a trolley supporting the cable spool, and one for the motor. (That 1 tonner is a LOT bigger than the 440# one, right at TWICE as long AND TWICE as wide, plus instead of maybe 23 lbs it's more like 75...")<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
The two trolley sounds the best idea, if I had some welding rods for wood, I'd add two more feet of I beam to my wooden I beam. Reason 110 why I like working with steel instead of wood, usually when I work with wood I cut a 2x4 three times and it's still comes out to short.
The two trolley sounds the best idea, if I had some welding rods for wood, I'd add two more feet of I beam to my wooden I beam. Reason 110 why I like working with steel instead of wood, usually when I work with wood I cut a 2x4 three times and it's still comes out to short.
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BukitCase
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Know whatcha mean, somehow I cut just ONE of the cross pieces (2" square tube x 1/8" wall - see, I CAN use "normal ruler stuff" too :=) on my container roof 1/4" too short, ended up cuttin' about 1/8" off another piece, leaving a small "open root" gap at both ends, and welding it back up - worked MUCH better than fixin' the SAME boo-boo on WOOD...
Too bad you don't need ANOTHER 10' jib somewhere else, you could pick up a 20' stick of 5" x 10 lb. I beam for about $150, cut it in half and stop messin' with the wood one - that size would MORE than do for anything up to at least 1000 lbs (at 10' long, anyway) - it'd probly tear your swivel mount off the wall before the beam would care... Steve
Too bad you don't need ANOTHER 10' jib somewhere else, you could pick up a 20' stick of 5" x 10 lb. I beam for about $150, cut it in half and stop messin' with the wood one - that size would MORE than do for anything up to at least 1000 lbs (at 10' long, anyway) - it'd probly tear your swivel mount off the wall before the beam would care... Steve
("Too bad you don't need ANOTHER 10' jib somewhere else, you could pick up a 20' stick of 5" x 10 lb. I beam for about $150")
I aventually as in sooner than later want to put a Jib crane inside my shop, but steel cheaper then wood? (cough cough, roll my eyes, scratch my head) time for a math lesson using my state the art calculator, 1st I have plenty of wood, I can go down back cut a log bring it out in 3 hr with 2 gal of tractor fuel, mill it up 4 hr with 1 gal of gas, stack and sticker upstairs in my garage 4 hr, wait for it to dry 3 summer months, make a 16' I beam in 24 hr with using $50.00 worth of glues screws and paint, 24 hr to let paint dry and wahla a 16' ft wooden I beam all for under $60.00.
PS I was bored and wanted to wright something and check your funny bone using alternative facts.
I aventually as in sooner than later want to put a Jib crane inside my shop, but steel cheaper then wood? (cough cough, roll my eyes, scratch my head) time for a math lesson using my state the art calculator, 1st I have plenty of wood, I can go down back cut a log bring it out in 3 hr with 2 gal of tractor fuel, mill it up 4 hr with 1 gal of gas, stack and sticker upstairs in my garage 4 hr, wait for it to dry 3 summer months, make a 16' I beam in 24 hr with using $50.00 worth of glues screws and paint, 24 hr to let paint dry and wahla a 16' ft wooden I beam all for under $60.00.
PS I was bored and wanted to wright something and check your funny bone using alternative facts.
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BukitCase
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My funny bone still seems to work, but I HAVE noticed it's a bit more "creaky" than it useta wuz
Forgot to mention before - that small 440# hoist isn't LONG enough to have room to use TWO trolleys - but there MIGHT be a way to add a couple different mounts to the trolley so ONE pair of wheels was almost centered over the spool and the OTHER pair centered over the motor - I'll play around with that idea a bit, see if it holds water (er, I mean firewood
Got more drawing done last night, gettin' close to cutting parts for the "wide-track post braces" on the HF crane... Steve
Forgot to mention before - that small 440# hoist isn't LONG enough to have room to use TWO trolleys - but there MIGHT be a way to add a couple different mounts to the trolley so ONE pair of wheels was almost centered over the spool and the OTHER pair centered over the motor - I'll play around with that idea a bit, see if it holds water (er, I mean firewood
Got more drawing done last night, gettin' close to cutting parts for the "wide-track post braces" on the HF crane... Steve
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BukitCase
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Got most of the parts cut today for the post braces on the HF crane - still need to cut 4 pieces of 2" x 1/8" wall tubing for the diagonals, they'll be 31" point to point, both ends cut 45*. Here's what I got done today, got some more prep to do on most of 'em -
This batch is for the crane braces, all just out of the saw. I'll need to notch 2 of the channel pieces to clear the diagonal square tubes, other ends will come in on the FLAT side -
And these are most of the NEW "porch roof" plan - decided against doing a full-fledged roof frame out of 2" tubing, so these will each get a 10' piece of tubing slid thru the shiny pieces (they're actual .030" over RECEIVER tubing) - then I'll just strap a 9x11 tarp over the long tubing pieces and it'll hang over the doors of the container by about 7 feet. One less "permanent" project for a "temporary" condition :thumbsup:
Guess tomorrow (and probably the next day or two after) will be clean up/weld up/put up time (for the "porch roof", that is - the braces will likely take longer... Steve
This batch is for the crane braces, all just out of the saw. I'll need to notch 2 of the channel pieces to clear the diagonal square tubes, other ends will come in on the FLAT side -
And these are most of the NEW "porch roof" plan - decided against doing a full-fledged roof frame out of 2" tubing, so these will each get a 10' piece of tubing slid thru the shiny pieces (they're actual .030" over RECEIVER tubing) - then I'll just strap a 9x11 tarp over the long tubing pieces and it'll hang over the doors of the container by about 7 feet. One less "permanent" project for a "temporary" condition :thumbsup:
Guess tomorrow (and probably the next day or two after) will be clean up/weld up/put up time (for the "porch roof", that is - the braces will likely take longer... Steve
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Thanks for all the detail, Steve!
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BukitCase
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You're welcome Mark - you probably caught the visual proof (first pic in that last post) of my belief in the old adage, "A clean desk is a sign of a sick mind" - :laughing: ...Steve
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BukitCase
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Most of the time I use a Walter zip disk (light touch, constant movement, about a 45* angle) if there's mill scale - then smooth it out with a CGW 40 grit flap disk (same method as the zip disk, only almost flat) - a NEW 40 grit is a little aggressive, so I use NEW ones for bevels, etc, til they "mellow out" a bit, then I use them for the "final shiney" part -
If a part has sat long enough to start a light rust coat before I get around to finishing the job, I have an old B&D "professional" high speed corded drill (came as a 1/4", I put a 3/8 keyless chuck on it) - it runs 4000 rpm, usually keep a 6" wire wheel on it and use it to get REALLY light rust off and add a bit of "tooth" before painting.
There's so much rain and humidity here a lot of the year, if I DON'T do that EVERYTHING is the SAME COLOR (reddish brown) and has its own "non-skid" finish
My favorite "bb blaster", for FLAT surfaces anyway, is an air hammer with a wide flat chisel, kept pretty sharp - you can just PUSH it along (low angle) til it stops on a more stubborn "bb", then just touch the trigger. That also works really good on the light slag after plasma cuts.
Small needle scaler for corners, fillets, etc...
If there's quite a bit of "flat land", this
Ingersoll Rand 315 Heavy Duty Air Twin Piston Straight Line Sander - 2-3/4-Inch x 17-1/2-Inch Pad - Power Random Orbit Sanders - Amazon.com
works pretty good too - I quit tryin' to live with plain-backed paper, now I buy the pressure-sensitive stuff in 40 grit. I got the idea from my GOOD neighbor, he runs a custom car shop next door. Side benefit - I can drool over all kinds of fun toys without havin' to use perfectly good TOOL money to do it :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
I got the rest of the pieces cut (no pics yet) for both the "porch roof" on the container, AND the other tubing pieces for the HF crane's corner braces; might get more "shinifyin'" done after supper, I wanna get the "porch roof" part done (welded and painted) so I can keep the (coming soon,AGAIN) horizontal rain outa the weld shop container with the doors open... Steve
Oh, BTW - now you can join the "pick on Shiny Steve" club, Terry (Big Barn) is prez, but I'm pretty sure the "Veep" slot is still open :laughing:
If a part has sat long enough to start a light rust coat before I get around to finishing the job, I have an old B&D "professional" high speed corded drill (came as a 1/4", I put a 3/8 keyless chuck on it) - it runs 4000 rpm, usually keep a 6" wire wheel on it and use it to get REALLY light rust off and add a bit of "tooth" before painting.
There's so much rain and humidity here a lot of the year, if I DON'T do that EVERYTHING is the SAME COLOR (reddish brown) and has its own "non-skid" finish
My favorite "bb blaster", for FLAT surfaces anyway, is an air hammer with a wide flat chisel, kept pretty sharp - you can just PUSH it along (low angle) til it stops on a more stubborn "bb", then just touch the trigger. That also works really good on the light slag after plasma cuts.
Small needle scaler for corners, fillets, etc...
If there's quite a bit of "flat land", this
Ingersoll Rand 315 Heavy Duty Air Twin Piston Straight Line Sander - 2-3/4-Inch x 17-1/2-Inch Pad - Power Random Orbit Sanders - Amazon.com
works pretty good too - I quit tryin' to live with plain-backed paper, now I buy the pressure-sensitive stuff in 40 grit. I got the idea from my GOOD neighbor, he runs a custom car shop next door. Side benefit - I can drool over all kinds of fun toys without havin' to use perfectly good TOOL money to do it :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
I got the rest of the pieces cut (no pics yet) for both the "porch roof" on the container, AND the other tubing pieces for the HF crane's corner braces; might get more "shinifyin'" done after supper, I wanna get the "porch roof" part done (welded and painted) so I can keep the (coming soon,AGAIN) horizontal rain outa the weld shop container with the doors open... Steve
Oh, BTW - now you can join the "pick on Shiny Steve" club, Terry (Big Barn) is prez, but I'm pretty sure the "Veep" slot is still open :laughing: