Convertible Cutting/Welding Table

[BukitCase]

I mostly use this, diluted as recommended
https://www.amazon.com/Hougen-11742...F8&qid=1545639129&sr=8-9&keywords=hougen+lube

Mix it in these (for extended projects)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQV14SA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or these for smaller jobs
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQ8DO3I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have one of the stick lubes, only use it when I can't keep the drill vertical (so far, not often at all)

I haven't quite got as brave as Terry on the compressed air, but probably will eventually - I'd need to set up a record-keeping method for # of cuts/material/thickness for one specific cutter (preferably NOT one of the bigger one$$) first.

One thing the Hougen info stresses is to ALWAYS put enough pressure on the drill to hear it "working", i.e. loaded down a bit - they say you'll get premature wear either "taking it easy", and/or "pecking at it".

One of my most-used cutters is the 21/32" by 2" DOC, all my "tinker toy" pieces are 2" male/female receiver tube and that size gives just enough clearance for a 5/8" pin or bolt not to bind. I had my local machine shop turn down that cutter a ways into the mount so it could cut both sides of 2.530" OD tube, and have cut probably 250-300 holes thru both walls of 2" and 2.53" .250 wall, ALWAYS with constant feed lube, well-loaded. That cutter (timed cuts) is still cutting like new. If it ain't broke....

"I had thought about converting a junk drill press, but then thought there was a good chance the table would not be square to the column and I would have to fix that first. Then I also thought about using an xy table, but decided it would not be all that well adapted to what I usually do. I did NOT think of mounting the drill to a vise!"

For me, each has its uses - I'll be adding a "dead drill press" to the mix if/when I find a TABLE model that's bigger than a toy - right now, even with the 4" stroke I have problems with getting the right HEIGHT for some things - the drill press table would help with that (would likely need to thicken the table for magnet holding power)

Reason I want a TABLE model is the column "stiffener" is shorter on table models (the table would need to go pretty low for this), not sure how I'd go about machining that stiffener down til I get a lathe. Could probably use the rotary table and a roughing mill on my mill...

IF that's not clear, look online at pics of table drill presses (the base) compared to floor models -

Another trick that works for me - I've bought several METRIC cutters, always just a few thou bigger than SAE sizes I use a lot - this gives me a hole with just enough slop not to need a hammer to drive a bolt in. I have Evolution's catalog, edited to show the cutters I have - if it's not too big I'll attach the pdf here - if that works, you can see that ALL the metric cutters I've marked are really just SAE with "built-in clearance"

Looks like it might've worked. I like Evolution's cutters AND their containers, plus they don't make you buy a pilot SEPARATELY like some others - nice thing about their containers is MOST are the same diameter, up til the cutter is too big to fit it - - One of those "oversize shoe box" totes, a piece of 2x6 and a forstner bit and "voila" (couple more cutters and I'll be re-thinking that one )

There's more; found more pics of the "vise table build" - but my valerian's kickin' in, so probably manana... Steve

 

[Big Barn]

I like Evolution's cutters AND their containers, plus they don't make you buy a pilot SEPARATELY like some others - nice thing about their containers is MOST are the same diameter, up til the cutter is too big to fit it - View attachment 584209 - One of those "oversize shoe box" totes, a piece of 2x6 and a forstner bit and "voila" (couple more cutters and I'll be re-thinking that one )

Steve

Steve, I had the same problem until I came across this Rousseau cabinet with a small dent on the topside (cosmetic damage only).



I sent a late note to Santa for a truckload of annular cutters so that I could play “catch up”.

 

[BukitCase]

Wow Terry, nice find on the cabinet - as you may remember, most of my work areas are "covered but NOT secure", so until that changes I need to keep "pawn shop friendly" stuff portable enough to move to a locked area when not in use - it's a PITA and slows me down, but being a stubborn old SOB helps some... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

Found a little time, here's pics of the basic "MDVT" build - I didn't have any 1/2" PLATE at the time, so it's all 1/2x3 FB and 10" channel. Pics are named and (kinda) in build order. in order to make sure the mounting plate (replacement jaw) is perpendicular to the top I double-checked the channel end cut for true, then hard-clamped the jaw face to the channel and did multiple tacks before welding.

Then I knocked off excess weld on the top surface with a flap disk so it wouldn't tear up the fly cutter. Doing these steps makes it MUCH easier to get true holes in things that're clamped in the vise for drilling. There'll be a second post for the rest of the pics... Steve

 

[BukitCase]

"Second verse - different than the first" (Stolen from Herman's Hermits :laughing - Wow, tough room... Steve

BTW, the ones with the partial hole in the red thingies was INTENTIONAL - necessary to defeat the FLOAT setting on my 6' Caroni flail. Also shows ways to drill multiple parts identically. The last TWO pics show using an internal stop for drilling multiple pieces of 2" tube EXACTLY the same distance from the end...

ANOTHER BTW - this is the vise I used
https://www.amazon.com/Wilton-14500...F8&qid=1545689289&sr=1-9&keywords=wilton+vise

NO particular reason other than I HAD it - also, you can get one for a few $ less if you're a previous ENCO customer registered at MSC.

Again, no reason any vise wouldn't work as long as you can remove the jaw insert... Steve

 

[downsizingnow48]

Steve, many thanks for all the great photos.

 

[BukitCase]

Pat, you're entirely welcome; regardless of how much (or how little) you decide to do, don't hesitate to ask for any clarifications I haven't provided. Some things I do may have 2 or 3 good reasons, some may have only one, and still others "just happened", so the logic behind something (if there IS any) might help you decide on what's worth the effort TO YOU... Steve

 

[downsizingnow48]

Got started making the drilling table for the mag drill. Immediately broke a cutter drilling a half inch hole through 1 inch bar. Expensive lesson. Drill lifted off the half inch plate it was magnet-ted to.

Photo 1, a thicket of clamps.
Photo 2, never thought of using parallel vises until I saw Steve's photo, works well.

 

[Big Barn]

Pat, if you have a decent drill press you should consider getting a 3/4” Weldon shank to further utilize your investment in annular cutters.

 

[downsizingnow48]

A very good question.

My two drill presses - a 70 year old Duro and a 70 year old Craftsman - do good work still, but are not up to annular cutters.

I got a Weldon adapter to fit my old Craftsman lathe, and have been using annular cutters with that, for which I have an original milling attachment to hold the work. That setup works pretty darn well. But.

I have been looking at drill press options. Here in northern California finding old American industrial iron is just about impossible. And I cannot bring myself to buy an expensive imported press. So I finally decided to spend the same money on the American-made Hougen mag drill, which has the power and sturdiness needed for annular cutters. This particular model also comes with a conversion to a standard chuck for twist drills, very handy.

I planned from the start to make a drilling table so it is as useful as a big old drill press. If I can make a table that is completely rigid and designed to minimize the hassle of positioning and clamping, I will be where I want to be.

My next project is a new thumb for the backhoe, and I have to finish the table before I can start that!