600xc4me
Member
My 430 FEL on the 4300 works great.. not too loose. Comes off at least once a year for mounting the snow plow blade. Love the quick tach system.
Wouldn't want it difficult to remove if ever the time comes to have to work on the engine or thereabouts.
Not sure how I'd go about turning it into a solid mount, but a good fabricator/welder likely can do that without too much problem. After all, seems just weld it in place.
It sure is a nice system I agree. But I never use it, and I do some fairly heavy digging and lifting of unbalanced loads which creates a lot of flex from one side to the other. You could weld the front but the main post on the rear mount doesn't look weldable to me. Can anyone confirm what material it's made of?
On my 955 with a 420 loader I added shims to the square bars that the rear of the loader rotates onto. It worked but I wasn't totally satisfied. My 4410 is also loose but I haven't done anything about it. I've wonder though about the mounting holes for the rear bars where they attach to the tractor. Those holes are slotted and I've wondered if that wasn't a way to tighten up the mount. To me it looks like you could loosen up the four bolts and then rotate the mount to take up the slack. I haven't tried it yet though.
I would never weld my loader to the mounts. It's just too handy to be able to remove the loader when necessary.
Yeah I would prefer not the weld it totally solid either, but if you could fab up a few brackets on the loader and the mount, then you could at least bolt them together?
How long have you had this CX FEL? Are you sure it is set up right and tight. The big nut on the arm can be adjusted pretty tight to keep a lot of the play out of it. The loader seems to have a big spring on the bottom of the arm to make it flexible. If I was to the point of abusing the thing I would just adjust it as good as possible and call it a day. Maybe something won't break because of the forgiveness that is built in.
I have a CX and haul maximum capacity logs and rocks and fill and never had a problem with the looseness that tightening those two arm bolt won't take care of.
I'm not even 100% sure. I want to say I have under 500 hrs on it.
I have them quite snug yes, I will try tightening them more though. But to me it's still a bandaid. I hate the way it can bang up and down in the front when applying down pressure. That part looks like a fairly simple fix though with a few brackets to bolt it to the frame.
With my 300 (not 300x or 300cx, but I 'think' the mast to bracket connection is the same) I think the issue is wear on the 'pocket', be it the loader side or mount side. I keep the adjustment bolts and jam nuts/bolts tight. To get them tight, I lift the front wheels off the ground with the loader, then tighten the adjustment bolts out TIGHT, and the jam nut, and set screw bolt. That takes as much slack out as possible. However, having done that about once a year, I've notice the loader doesnt lower to the ground as far as it did when new. Which stands to reason if you study the geometry of the loader frame, mast, and how wear of the pocket and tightening the adjustment bolts to compensate, changes the final available down travel of the loader. A bolted solid connection and bolted brace from mast to loader frame/hoop that attaches to the front mount, may also be in order. Ive lost 2" of down travel, getting it back would be nice. Ive also thought of shims inside the pocket to compensate for wear, would allow loader more down travel.
I agree on this point! I can watch it move in the socket when I'm working. I'll have to pull the loader off and have a look at how it's built in there. Maybe a few shims would do the trick.