converting a leaf blower

[J_J]

Here it is. Connect it as a bypass circuit. The fluid not used by this valve will bypass to tank. Look on page 2 . This valve is a variable orifice valve.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/adspecs/AS9-064-38.pdf

Connect a hose from your PTO pressurized QD's to the input if this valve and the pressurized output goes to the motor. the return outlet will connect to the return hose via a tee.

Once you have the valve set to the required flow, just activate your electric valve to run the sickle bar mower.

Also,

You could put a restrictive adapter in line. You would have to find an orifice to insert in the adapter fitting, to reduce the flow to the required GPM's. A needle valve could be used to reduce the flow, but in both of these, the PTO relief valve would be activating and producing more heat.

Although your PTO valve probably has a relief valve, the valve above also has relief that would have to be set.

What is the pressure rating of the sickle bar mower hyd motor?

 

[coolconnection]

What is the pressure rating of the sickle bar mower hyd motor?

I think it is 200 psi. seems really low to me but so far it is working.

Thanks guys, keep it coming.

 

[J_J]

If you supply 8 GPM's and a potential or 4000 psi. the load on the hyd motor will dictate what pressure the motor will operate. If you are just running the mower with no load, there will be very little. As you start trimming and things get thick and tuff to cut. the pressure will build up to whatever resistance for the pump to produce 3000 psi. If the hyd motor is designed for 500 psi, the seals may blow or leak severely with constant operation above 500 psi . If the sickle bar mower gets totally jammed up, no telling what the pressure can build up to. It may blow the seals or crack the case on the motor.

The relief on that speed control valve is set at 1500 psi, but I don't think it will go lower.



The pressure required on that hyd motor is up to 500 psi. and it needs 3.3 GPM for normal operation. The hyd motor is 3 cu in . Max rpm is 885. They shows a divider valve like I posted. You should find a way of limit the pressure to 500 psi.

http://www.cutthat.com/pdf/SabreManual.pdf

Was a control valve included with the mower?

 

[coolconnection]

Was a control valve included with the mower?

No, no control valve was included. I think I will try a flow control valve out when I get the time and money. Thanks for all your help.

 

[coolconnection]

Wow I must be clueless on hydraulics. I called Surplus Center for an adjustable flow control valve and it is like pulling teeth. They can't even help me until I know if I have a 'open center' or 'closed center' pump for my power take off. I have the PT425 and I told them what I did know about it. They even wanted to know the manufacturer of the pump. Now how am I going to do that with Power-Trac taking off labels on stuff and all. Oh well maybe call someone else more eager to help me. Bummer.

 

[J_J]

The PT hydraulics are open center. The dear pumps runs continous, and the fluid not used goes back to tank, except the VSP, which is closed loop hyd system. Just tell them the flow in GPM's on your PTO circuit.

Are you looking for a needle valve or a variable speed valve? Like these.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-064-75&catname=hydraulic

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-5302-38&catname=hydraulic

 

[coolconnection]

Are you looking for a needle valve or a variable speed valve? Like these.
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-5302-38&catname=hydraulic

Do you think a needle valve would work if I put a 'T' in before the valve so the extra fluid just goes back into the tank. If the sickle bar gets all jammed up at least the fluid can go back into the tank. Or do you think by having one the fluid would just bypass it anyway and go back into the tank? Path of least resistance.

 

[J_J]

You normally can't tee hyd flow, and have an open flow to tank. The fluid will take the path of least resistance. You could throttle that fluid by using a needle valve, but will generate more heat

If you want to separate fluid flow, then you need a divider valve. Some of them have a priority circuit, and relief. The priority outlet uses a set GPM, and the rest of the flow goes back to tank or down stream.

The valve below divides the flow into equal output. Your pump speed will dictate the volume up to the maximum.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1048-A&catname=hydraulic

The valve below has a priority circuit.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1048-A&catname=hydraulic


This link shows a variable flow valve, and a fixed flow valve.

http://www.cutthat.com/pdf/SabreManual.pdf

 

[coolconnection]

J J thanks for all your help. I appreciate it. This is one of my winter projects for my PT so I have plenty of time to do it. Now I just need to get the part.

 

[coolconnection]

You normally can't tee hyd flow, and have an open flow to tank. The fluid will take the path of least resistance. You could throttle that fluid by using a needle valve, but will generate more heat

If you want to separate fluid flow, then you need a divider valve. Some of them have a priority circuit, and relief. The priority outlet uses a set GPM, and the rest of the flow goes back to tank or down stream.

The valve below divides the flow into equal output. Your pump speed will dictate the volume up to the maximum.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1048-A&catname=hydraulic

The valve below has a priority circuit.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1048-A&catname=hydraulic


This link shows a variable flow valve, and a fixed flow valve.

http://www.cutthat.com/pdf/SabreManual.pdf

J_J Looking over the diverter it says 16 gpm. Wouldn't I need one rated for 8 gpm instead? I now am ready to finish this thing up to work so I just need this last bit of information and I am ready to order the part. Thanks for your help.