coolant recovery tank gurgling

[PoorMansCat]

Blue... did the dealer have a new p/n for the head gasket or mention anything about a change out or supercede #?? If so, it might indicate a past issue that has been since resolved thru engineering changes...
As others suggested, check/verify the reusability of the cylinder head bolts and consider replacing them. The pictures you posted that appear as though the cylinder head torque relaxed, and eventually allowed compression to escape by the fire ring and enter the cooling system.
A hot torque check may ease your mind, along with a 50 hour check... Although unlikely, IF it happens again, one sure way to fix it for good is to pull the cylinder head again and send it off to be fire-ringed..

 

[blue262]

The dealer didn't mention anything about a part number change. The manual calls for retorqueing after 3o minutes. I think I will do a 50 hour re-check.

I'm being stuborn on replacing the bolts. I will call the dealer and see if they recommend replacing them. Typically....with good quality head bolts....I would re-use them once. The next time I would replace them. The torque value is supposed to be set with the bolt material stress below the elastic limit. So in theory the bolts are good forever. We know in practice this doesn't always work out, so to be safe we repalce them. They should be good.

I'm not familiar with "fire ringing". What is this?

 

[MichiganIron]

If the bolts thread easily by finger turning, the bolt hasn't yielded and should be ok for re-use. If you have to work the bolt into the thread, replace them. If we need to replace 1, we replace them all.

 

[PoorMansCat]

The dealer didn't mention anything about a part number change. The manual calls for retorqueing after 3o minutes. I think I will do a 50 hour re-check.

I'm being stuborn on replacing the bolts. I will call the dealer and see if they recommend replacing them. Typically....with good quality head bolts....I would re-use them once. The next time I would replace them. The torque value is supposed to be set with the bolt material stress below the elastic limit. So in theory the bolts are good forever. We know in practice this doesn't always work out, so to be safe we repalce them. They should be good.

I'm not familiar with "fire ringing". What is this?

Some of the newer gas and diesel engines that are being produced are using one time use bolts.... (GM, Ford and Dodge are all using them, as well as some diesel engine manufacturers) but if your manual is calling for a re-torque, I doubt this engine uses "disposable" bolts.. Although I would check the overall length of them just to make sure.
Fire ring or o ring.. is a process used by performance engine builders where a machined groove is cut around each combustion chamber and a wire ring is inserted. When the cylinder head is torqued down, it provides a stronger seal than your typical factory head gasket.

 

[blue262]

OK...I was stubborn and tight about replacing the head bolts.

I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.

That's my punishwork....10 times. (plus getting to do the job twice)

I put my new head gasket in today. I torqued it down to 60 ft/lb (spec is 57 - 61.5 ft/lb). I set the valve clearance and cranked it up for the 30 minute break in run. After 30 minutes as prescribed I retorqued. All 14 of the head bolts required a small amount of retightening. On bolt 14 it popped like a piece of glass. I had to diaasemble to remove the broken piece from the block.

My advice from here on...replace the head bolts when replacing the head gasket on the CK25.

I ordered a new gasket ($41) and 14 head bolts ($3.80/ea). Will try again soon.

 

[VictorW]

I can imagine the words you said after bolt 14's pop. I probably would have done the same as you if all the bolts threaded in easily as MIE mentioned. Just think how good you'll be now at R&R the head. Just kidding. I hope you never have to do it again. Maybe a lesson for all of us to remember if we have to remove the head.

 

[PoorMansCat]

OK...I was stubborn and tight about replacing the head bolts.

I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.
I will not be a tight ***.

That's my punishwork....10 times. (plus getting to do the job twice)

I put my new head gasket in today. I torqued it down to 60 ft/lb (spec is 57 - 61.5 ft/lb). I set the valve clearance and cranked it up for the 30 minute break in run. After 30 minutes as prescribed I retorqued. All 14 of the head bolts required a small amount of retightening. On bolt 14 it popped like a piece of glass. I had to diaasemble to remove the broken piece from the block.

My advice from here on...replace the head bolts when replacing the head gasket on the CK25.

I ordered a new gasket ($41) and 14 head bolts ($3.80/ea). Will try again soon.

Dang stupid bolt!!..
If it popped at 61 lbs.. the bolt was already fatigued... By the pic, it looks as though it seperated just about where the parting line is between the block and head. Thats a common place for a bolt to give up. The threads may look fine where they are engaged into the mating threads of the block. Sometimes you can use a 0-1 inch micrometer and actually see the deformation of the bolt. I'm surprised that the repair manual didn't give a maximum tolerance for the length for the bolts. Usually if a bolt is at or near the overall length its junk and should be disposed of.
If it doesn't seal down and stay this time, I would consider calling an ARP dealer and getting a stud kit.

 

[RobertBrown]

OK...I was stubborn and tight about replacing the head bolts.

.

Dam that sucks, but better now than in 50 hours when you least expect it.
I for one really apreciate your thoroughness in reporting your progress and accomplishments.
The photos are great! I understand that this takes time to document so that we all can learn,
Thanks Man
Keep up the good work

 

[jake98]

Dam that sucks, but better now than in 50 hours when you least expect it.
I for one really apreciate your thoroughness in reporting your progress and accomplishments.
The photos are great! I understand that this takes time to document so that we all can learn,
Thanks Man
Keep up the good work

I'll second that..

 

[blue262]

With a clear head, I would have seen that the bolt snapped in the head and not the block. I assumed it snapped in the block and would require a drill and easy-out. In hindsight I could have found a wooden dowel or tree branch the correct diameter and length. With this I could have tapped it with a hammer to imbed it onto the broken stud and unscrewed it. It was not tight in the block, it easily unscrewed and it stuck up at least a 1/2" and the break was not flush and smooth but very jagged. I could have saved a head gasket and some time. I would have replaced just this bolt. But in hindsight this bolt didn't feel like the other 13 during torqueing and I should have removed it to inspect it before it broke. After it broke I was trying to think of someone I new who was mechanically inclined to call and just think through with my thoughts and I couldn't think of anyone I wouldn't be imposing on. So I went with my gut to rip it all apart and start over. My advice to you is be more patient than me and let the helpful folks on this site help you think it through.