Corner posts - How deep?

[RussMan]

I am interested in any feedback regarding how deep to set corner posts for fencing. The fencing will be 3 strands of stretched smooth wire (horses). I do plan on setting the posts in concrete. Of course it depends on how tight I stretch, but interested in general rule for depth. Posts will be treated, I believe 6" - but maybe they are 8" posts. Is 24" deep sufficient? 30"?

 

[Western]

Russman,

I would say it depends allot on your soil. I put allot in (steel pipe) here where I live at 24" especially when I have several braced together, even "line" post at 24". I have gone less in rock, more in deep or softer soil.

Wood post I tend to go about 10% deeper if I can, but I like RR ties too.

 

[beenthere]

I wouldn't set a corner post less than 30", but closer to 36".

Being a corner, the braces tend to have a lifting force on the corners when the fence is tightened. On the farm, those are the posts that would work themselves out of the ground. Tying large rocks onto the posts didn't seem to help much either. A cross brace at the bottom of the post may add some sticking power. As mentioned, soil is a factor, and any freezing and thawing will work a post up too. That may not be an issue where you are in MO.

But that depth may be just me.

 

[moored4]

i would need more info. What soil type, how long a run. what type of line post and spaceings, how many post in the corner, and are you going to put bracing post in the run?

 

[Bison]

IMO the deeper the better,min of 3'.
On my fences I set 2 post 10-12' apart and 5' deep with a cross brace between at the top and a diagonal wire brace bottom cornerpost to top second post.

 

[MMagis]

Soil is important, but 3' is pretty standard for most places with freeze/that cycles. 4' isn't uncommon for folks with post drivers.

 

[SandburRanch]

In the sand at SandburRanch, when the moisture is right and the ambient temp. is 60, 6 trips with the Fiskars gets 3 ft. and that's good enuff. Stretch the top wire then the others medium. In the winter near 0 degrees it'll be tight and at 102 F it'll be a little loose. No need to make rocket science out of fence building because in a few short years it ain't gonna look so good.:laughing:

 

[dmay]

I am interested in any feedback regarding how deep to set corner posts for fencing. The fencing will be 3 strands of stretched smooth wire (horses). I do plan on setting the posts in concrete. Of course it depends on how tight I stretch, but interested in general rule for depth. Posts will be treated, I believe 6" - but maybe they are 8" posts. Is 24" deep sufficient? 30"?

How tall is your fence going to be?

Have you considered pounding your posts. No augering or concrete required. A heck of a lot faster and easier. Once pounded the post is set, ready to string your lines. In future fence changes can be made or broken posts can be replaced just by pulling out old and pounding in new.

You can either rent or contract a post pounder. All you do is sharpen posts with a chainsaw to look like a pencil and pound them into the ground with the post pounder. In this case a good general rule for a sturdy horse fence is to match the height with the depth. This is especially true if your fence lines are tensioned. Also if you are in a winter cold zone with frost line to deal with you need to get below your frost line.

For post size your corner posts should be 2" bigger then your line post size.

A 3 strand galvanized wire fence for average size 14/15hh horses is typically 4 ft high. Line posts are typcially spaced 20 ft apart and would be 4-6" x 8ft. Corner posts would be 6-8" x 8ft. Pounded 4 ft in ground.

For taller 17 hh horses you might go 4 strand, 5 ft high and 10 ft long posts. Pounded 5 ft in ground.

I personally don't recommend using galvanized wire for all strands as it can become too invisible for playful or spooked horses to see. As a minimum the top strand should be highly visible. Here I like to use a braided white electric line. As I have tall horses I go 4 strand 5 ft high where the top and middle are braided white electric to improve visibility and keep horses off the fence lines and posts.

 

[rgood]

4 feet

 

[MMagis]

No need to make rocket science out of fence building because in a few short years it ain't gonna look so good.:laughing:

Well said!

 

[Car Doc]

The best way I know is use steel pipe as deep as my tractor auger will go and thats little over 3" but I use 3 posts and weld braces to keep the apart and add strength to the corner.

 

[mjw357]

I personally don't recommend using galvanized wire for all strands as it can become too invisible for playful or spooked horses to see. As a minimum the top strand should be highly visible. Here I like to use a braided white electric line. As I have tall horses I go 4 strand 5 ft high where the top and middle are braided white electric to improve visibility and keep horses off the fence lines and posts.

I second that. DO NOT USE SMOOTH WIRE for horses. My wife had to put a horse down after getting sliced by it. We use a product called Electrobraid. Highly visible, less posts. They have a website, look it up.

One mistake many people make with corners posts/brace posts, is they put the brace post too close to the corner post. That's why they may lift out of the ground. Make it 8'-10' away.

 

[MMagis]

No offense guys, but some horse owners get a little out of hand. No smooth wire? Then what the heck are people suppose to use, because of course barb wire is the devils wire. Come on, horses aren’t as delicate as some of you think. I can’t even imagine how 9 gauge smooth wire could possible cut a horse. Not everyone wants to spend the ridiculous amount of money to build board fence, when thousands upon thousands of horses are kept in with wire. One of my neighbors even uses the dreaded BARB WIRE. And his horses are fine and have been for years. He’s not your typical horse owner though. He’s quick to tell you they’re farm horses, not baby kittens.

 

[ole farmerbuck]

Around here its barb wire for everything. Single strand.....hot!

 

[dmay]

No offense guys, but some horse owners get a little out of hand. No smooth wire? Then what the heck are people suppose to use, because of course barb wire is the devils wire. Come on, horses aren稚 as delicate as some of you think. I can稚 even imagine how 9 gauge smooth wire could possible cut a horse. Not everyone wants to spend the ridiculous amount of money to build board fence, when thousands upon thousands of horses are kept in with wire. One of my neighbors even uses the dreaded BARB WIRE. And his horses are fine and have been for years. Heç—´ not your typical horse owner though. Heç—´ quick to tell you theyæ±*e farm horses, not baby kittens.

Ever used a smooth wire cheese slicer? Pretty easy for that smooth wire to slice a hard brick of aged cheddar cheese.

Ever heard of snowmobiler getting decapitated running into a utility pole smooth guide wire.

Thankfully you must have no experience with a horse injured by a galvanized wire fence. Believe me when I say smooth wire injuries are a horrific injury whether to horse or man.

Typically occurs for three reasons:

1) The fence is not electric so the horses do not know to respect and avoid it. They are always in close proximity or worse head, leg and body through due to the grass always being greener on the outside.

2) The fence is all galvanized wire which at times may be highly invisible. A playful, spooked or bullied galloping horse might run right into the invisible fence at speed. Especially true if non electric and not respected.

3) The horse gets a leg on the other side. Either from rolling on the ground or grazing the outside grass. When it tries to stand up or walk away the leg feels stuck, the horse panics, pulls back, and slices flesh right off the bone.

This above can almost be completely deterred by correctly electrifying your fence so horses learn to respect and avoid the fence and using more visible fence material, like a white electrobraid as mentioned. Electrifiy at least the top and middle strands. If you just electrify the top the horse will learn he can still reach through the lower strands without issue to get that greener grass.

 

[Bison]

For horses wood planks or rails are the best.
i have lost horses when they tried to jump page wire and smooth wire and got a foot stuck(not a pretty sight)
I also lost a filly that broke both hindlegs jumping a steel pasture gate,poking both hinds under the top bar.
Barb wire is h3ll on a horse.

 

[MMagis]

I guess those are all good reasons why I won't own horses. Cattle aren't that smart, but they don't get tangled in the fences and they taste good.

 

[Chilly807]

If you have trouble with the corner posts "jacking" up out of the ground because of the braces, try using longer posts for the corners, and attach the diagonal brace ABOVE the top strand of fence, the higher the better.

We're relatively comfortable with smooth 14 gauge wire for horses, we use a wire bottom (4th) strand, then a braided (electrified) third and top strand, with another smooth wire (2nd) between the top and third strands.

Accidents happen, even with Electro-Braid... The best you can do is keep it tight enough there aren't any sags or loose wire.

Sean

 

[Bison]

I guess those are all good reasons why I won't own horses. Cattle aren't that smart, but they don't get tangled in the fences and they taste good.

Cattle get hurt by fences plenty.they ain't any smarter than horses,they are just not as high on the list of emotional attachment as horses

BTW,horse meat tastes pretty good,should try it someday

 

[MMagis]

I guess I should say MINE have never gotten tangled in the fence.