Corroded trailer wiring socket

[PM1]

I have an aftermarket (DrawTite) electric brake control and wiring harness on my Tundra. The pins in the 5-pin socket mounted under the rear bumper completely corrode within months. I've replaced the entire socket several times, but clearly I'm not doing something right since I'm continually treating the symptom rather than the cause.

Any suggestions for how I can fix this problem? Thanks for any help.

 

[dodge man]

When I have bought Hoppy(sp?) trailer stuff in the past, in came with a little packet of grease. I assume that is meant to be put on the connectors to keep them from getting corroded. Have you tried something like that? It should help.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You need to use some dielectric grease. You can get a tube that will last you a lifetime at Napa for $5 or buy the single use packets for $1 each at any AutoZone, ect.

Chris

 

[PM1]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll replace the socket first so that I'm starting clean. Do I apply the dielectric grease liberally all over the pins and the connector?

 

[kennyd]

You need to use some dielectric grease. You can get a tube that will last you a lifetime at Napa for $5 or buy the single use packets for $1 each at any AutoZone, ect.

Chris

^^^^^^^^^^^
That is the answer! Use it on every electrical contact. Change a light bulb...fill the socket with grease first.

 

[kennyd]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll replace the socket first so that I'm starting clean. Do I apply the dielectric grease liberally all over the pins and the connector?

Good plan...and Yes, liberally on everything metal.

 

[bigdad]

We always called that grease, "Goose Grease" or Non-Ox. After applying the grease to the pins, cut a small square of cloth and rub some of that (warm) grease into it then put it in the socket with the lid shut.

 

[MarkLeininger]

The pins in the 5-pin socket mounted under the rear bumper completely corrode within months. I've replaced the entire socket several times, but clearly I'm not doing something right since I'm continually treating the symptom rather than the cause.

Any suggestions for how I can fix this problem? Thanks for any help.

I have an SUV so you can't do quite the same thing, but when I had my tow hitch and socket put on, the installer told me to mount the socket on a temporary bracket and leave enough wire that I could unmount it and toss it in the back of the SUV when I'm not using it. We have lots of road salt around here and I've had the same socket on now for about 5 years. With a pickup, maybe you could buy a small weathertight electric box and either keep it loose in the pickup bed or mount it on the receiver frame somewhere so you could toss the socket in it when you're not towing. If you use your trailer all the time this isn't a good solution. But we only haul our horses a dozen times a year, so it works good to remove it and keep it out of the weather. The grease will also help whether you remove it or not.

 

[Skyco]

The OP might also make sure the socket isn't filling up with water. Lots of times the back of the socket (towards the vehicle front) where the wires enter isn't sealed and water runs in, add the 12VDC from the lights and brake wire and you get a great electrolysis action going...especially if salt is in the road spray/water getting in. I also like to tilt the door end of my sockets down a hair so any moisture getting in runs out.

 

[pat32rf]

Make sure you also give the front (rear) of the socket a good coat of grease after you hook the wires to it...and stay away from any crimp connectors. Solder and heat shrink, with grease inside the heat shrink is the way to go if you have road salt....

 

[Soundguy]

I use chassie grease on my connector.. works great.. sheds water.. etc..

soundguy

 

[PM1]

That's an interesting thought that water might be getting trapped inside. I've had the connector mounted with the rear (with the pins and spring-loaded cover) lower than the front (where the wires enter). I'm not sure how else I would position the connector to reduce water problems.

There's no gasket on the spring-loaded cover, so it probably allows water entry. By the same token, it seems like it should allow some drainage. Whatever's happening, I'm getting lots of corrosion.

I've attached some photos. Thanks for the continued help.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am in the trailer business and that has to be one of the top 2 worst looking sockets I have seen. Hate to see your chassis and other components on the tow vehicle. The stuff they put on the roads there must be toxic.

Chris

 

[Soundguy]

DanG.. ditto that.. must be salt?

I'd change that sucker to a (yuck) poly job.. then grease the heck out of the pins..

soundguy

 

[Wis Bang]

I am in the trailer business and that has to be one of the top 2 worst looking sockets I have seen. Hate to see your chassis and other components on the tow vehicle. The stuff they put on the roads there must be toxic.

Chris

Instead of simply using rock salt to de-ice most nothern states have started using liquid Calcium Chloride compounds [and some Potassium chlorides] as a supplement to rock salt and as a 'stand alone' treatment that they can put down before the storm.

Rock salt won't make a dicing 'brine' unless there is moisture to melt it so it can't be placed too long b/4 the storm as traffic will blow it off the dry road. It also is not effective under 20 degrees.

The first time I saw a road pre-treated w/ liquid it looked like black ice. Your entire underbody gets coated & you still see it spattering on your windshield the next day after the storm when the road looks dry! I keep getting flashed w/ high beams as I take a rag & wipe off my lights b/4 driving & they look too bright when most are coated w/ calcium.

It gets into everything! Driving the salt storage dome you now see a plastic tank and a drive under spray arm where they coat the fresh rock salt w/ the liquid.

Tractor trailer maintenace people [TMA maintenance council] is publishing warnings on the damages it is doing to the transport fleets & any tech's using a 'test light' w/ an Ice pick point is likely to be repremanded as the pin pricks they make allow moisture to enter the wiring. The corrosion wicks along the harness making a mess, this is getting worse. Most modern truck lighting uses sealed connectectors W/ sealed bulbs & sealed conncetions in gromet mounts & this stuff is STILL causing some corrosion problems.

OP's pictures show that the rear of his plug isn't sealed to well. They sell an electrical tape that shrinks like shrink tubing; It might help.

 

[Soundguy]

If i lived there.. I'd fil the plug with grease after every use.

soundguy

 

[Wis Bang]

I use the flat 4 for the bass boat and little utility trailer and I have them up thru the tailgate in the SUV and the Pickup, no problems...

 

[radioman]

That's an interesting thought that water might be getting trapped inside. I've had the connector mounted with the rear (with the pins and spring-loaded cover) lower than the front (where the wires enter). I'm not sure how else I would position the connector to reduce water problems.

There's no gasket on the spring-loaded cover, so it probably allows water entry. By the same token, it seems like it should allow some drainage. Whatever's happening, I'm getting lots of corrosion.

I've attached some photos. Thanks for the continued help.

That looks typical after 2 years here in NY state if it not used monthly and no grease used. If i use the trailer in salt months from oct to march, I find that after using the same plug after 5 years, it alot easier just replace it with spanking brand new plugs and grease it up. Otherwise everytime you hook up, you spend time fiddling around to make sure everything works before to go and it a PITA!