Rake Cost of Woods gauge wheels for rake?

[sixdogs]

Can anyone take a guess at the cost of a set of factory Woods gauge wheels for my 8ft medium duty landscape rake? I haven't any idea and nothing would surprise me. I don't want to call a dealer when I'm just in the thinking stage of this.
I really dont want to build a set and if the price is not too absurd I figure to just pony-up and pay the price.
Grading my driveway is one thing if I want to scrape flat to the ground but I figure the gauge wheels will offer a better opportunity to leave more gravel evenly distributed on the surface.
Thanks in advance for any info.

 

[IslandTractor]

I haven't checked but I recall it is something in the range of $300.

 

[Rusty]

If this is of any help, a skid shoe kit for a Woods RB72 72" rear blade cost me $130 in August, 2006. The companion rake would be the LR72. I have no idea how wheels compare to skid shoes in price.

 

[amigauser]

IslandTractor is correct, they are around $300 list price.

Norm

 

[sixdogs]

Well, I just checked and $383 list price. Probably still have the old and higher steel prices factored in.
So I'll build a set. I will search this site but if anyone has any favorite links to good ideas that will shorten the search please let me know.

 

[dirtworksequip]

sixdogs, why don't you try grading your driveway without the gauge wheels. You might save yourself some $. It's not that hard. I still can't understand what all the rage about guage wheels? I've never used a set so I guess I don't understand how it can be so different without them.

How is it going to get any better? Or is it just easier?

 

[john_bud]

sixdogs, why don't you try grading your driveway without the gauge wheels. You might save yourself some $. It's not that hard. I still can't understand what all the rage about guage wheels? I've never used a set so I guess I don't understand how it can be so different without them.

How is it going to get any better? Or is it just easier?

Takes less skill so the novice / new operator can be productive with the new tool faster. Heck, even an old hand can be more productive in many cases as there is less interaction with the 3pt or hydraulic links needed so a higher ground speed can be used.

jb

 

[sixdogs]

I'm very familiar with a lanscape rake without wheels and have used one for 20 years. On bank run or dust type gravel they run flat to the ground and smooth as can be. I once did a half mile of road like that and it came out perfect. That was in Maine.
Now in Ohio I have 3/4 inch to dust gravel and am trying to leave an inch or two on the surface without scraping to base. That's what the locals do but I am developing "waves" and ripples I don't like. I am operating in very light draft control that worked very well in Maine. Won't work here because I scrape or gouge and dump some piles if gravel.
I figure the gauge wheels will take them out ASAP because I was told that but am wide open to suggestions. That's how the gauge wheels came to be a topic. Any help appreciated.
It's not a matter of life or death but there are some pretty smart guys here that might have ideas.

 

[number two]

I bought the LR72 2 years ago and the guage wheels were $200 extra at the time.

 

[Builder]

hey sixdogs, do you think the Woods medium duty rake is worth the extra price they fetch for their equipment? I'm looking at leinbach and they're like 1/2 the price of Woods or Landpride, but they might also only be 1/2 as tough. Any thoughts? Did you look at "cheaper" brands before you bought?

 

[sixdogs]

hey sixdogs, do you think the Woods medium duty rake is worth the extra price they fetch for their equipment? I'm looking at leinbach and they're like 1/2 the price of Woods or Landpride, but they might also only be 1/2 as tough. Any thoughts? Did you look at "cheaper" brands before you bought?

I looked at a lot of rakes before I bought--and have owned several--so I knew I wanted a heavier one. For me, weight is important in a rock rake. Otherwise they tend to "bounce" and ride over things that should be swept up.
Same is true of a grader blade. I paid top dollar for my used 8ft Woods LR108 medium duty rake. It is heavy enough. Also found a used medium duty 7ft KMC rear blade that I wish was heavier.
I looked at cheaper brands and did not buy. In a sense, even though money is less, the cost is more because they often won't do the heavier jobs or will bend under duress.
It has taken me 40 years to learn but I have found if I buy the best I can afford I get the results I am looking for.

 

[Builder]

I looked at a lot of rakes before I bought--and have owned several--so I knew I wanted a heavier one. For me, weight is important in a rock rake. Otherwise they tend to "bounce" and ride over things that should be swept up.
Same is true of a grader blade. I paid top dollar for my used 8ft Woods LR108 medium duty rake. It is heavy enough. Also found a used medium duty 7ft KMC rear blade that I wish was heavier.
I looked at cheaper brands and did not buy. In a sense, even though money is less, the cost is more because they often won't do the heavier jobs or will bend under duress.
It has taken me 40 years to learn but I have found if I buy the best I can afford I get the results I am looking for.

I know what you mean by "money is less, cost is more". I'm leaning towards the more expensive & heavier rakes, too.

 

[Captinjack]

I bought a heavy duty Landpride 7 footer rake and really like it. I shopped all the others and this was the only one I could find that would off set to either side which is really handy to rake out ditches and get close to banks and still keep the tractor wheels on track.

It's plenty heavy and works real well without wheels. I've made a set of great wheels to go on the scraper blade that slide into a std. 2" receiver, but I haven't used them on the rake yet as it suits me so far without wheels. I do have top an tilt which is essential for establishing level or tilted operation on the fly. Wheels would be more helpful if one doesn't have what I think is an essential feature (TNT).

 

[Builder]

Very helpful! Thanks.

Would you suggest a top-n-tilt for the 3pt over a rake with a power angling and power tilting feature?

I only have 2 remotes to use, so i want to make the best of them.

I would think the T&T would be better since it could also be used for a blade, but I wondered about a future quick hitch or using a 3pt bush hog and how the T&T would interface with them.

 

[SamWalton]

We recently purchase a Land Pride LR1572 Landscape Rake. We were getting tired of manually removing stones that cause the box rake from working correctly. I was considering purchasing the King Cutter 72 rake at our local Tractor Supply on sale for $437.20 but the quality can't be compared to Land Pride. My dealer priced the LR1572 at $750. So I went to do a face to face cash deal at my dealer and purchased if for $625 out the door. I know I paid $187.80 more but what a product. We used the rake to remove stones and help shape our drive way in the making. I am not convinced the gage wheels are worth the extra $300. I am pleased on its performance without.

 

[Builder]

I need a 7 or 8 footer. Do you think a top/tilt would make yours a lot more versatile?

nice rake (and tractor) !

 

[IslandTractor]

I have a Woods 72 inch rake with and without gauge wheels. I bought it with the wheels but use the rake mostly without the wheels. If I were doing a final lawn prep or something like that I might conceivably reinstall the wheels but for general raking I find it easier to do without.

I do like and use a hydraulic topping lift with the rake. I don't have hydraulic tilt.

 

[SamWalton]

I need a 7 or 8 footer. Do you think a top/tilt would make yours a lot more versatile?

nice rake (and tractor) !

I am sure it would be a great upgrade but it's not in the budget. That is an expensive kit to purchase.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I need a 7 or 8 footer. Do you think a top/tilt would make yours a lot more versatile?

nice rake (and tractor) !

As with a lot of 3pt implements, hydraulic "TnT" has extreme advantages. As in that you can make constant adjustments vs with manual adjustments you tend to use one adjustment and call it good enough. Once you've had hydraulic top/tilt, you could not imagine working without it.

As far as a landscape rake, I suggest that you be sure to get one that will be strong enough to hold up to your tractor. I had bought a Mid West rake, thought that it would be fine, after all, it's only a rake. Well, I bent it after only a few times using it. So if you like throwing your $$$ away, buy cheap, otherwise buy what is right for your size tractor.

Just my opinions with what I have experienced.

 

[sixdogs]

W can share a secret here in that the landscape rake is one of the most important pieces of equipment out there. It will even PLOW SNOW better than a blade. Beats me but it works.
Island Tractor--if you ever don't want them, sell me your Woods rake wheels.

I think I'm going to get the top 'n tilt setup. Sounds like a must-have